Rear lower control arm brace\skid

[turbo8]

Hey, I have been making these for the 200 series and was wondering if anyone would be interested in these for your 100 series?

They increase the stiffness of the rear lower control arm and decrease the chance of the arms getting bent from impacts. They come with all mounting hardware, can be installed in under an hour and the only tools really required are an Allen wrench set.

The 100 series lower link is close to the same dimensions as the 200 series and these fit but with a little less coverage.

I can make another version that is 1/2" longer if wanted, but not sure if this is necessary.

Skids are 304 stainless steel and the clamps are 6061-T6 Aluminum.

Before I sell these I need to verify fitment on a 100 series for proper clearance. Would a member here like to test fit these and check for clearance? I'll let you keep the set for your work.

Pic from the 200 series

100 series link with link\brace attached

 

[trdcorolla]

I'll test fit it. I'm running Trail Tailor rear control arm skids if that matters.

100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (2) M14 Grade 10.9 bolts, (4) washers and (2)...

www.trail-tailor.com

 

[turbo8]

I'll test fit it. I'm running Trail Tailor rear control arm skids if that matters.

100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (2) M14 Grade 10.9 bolts, (4) washers and (2)...

www.trail-tailor.com

That shouldn't matter. Pm me your address and I'll ship you a set.

 

[badlander]

Looks like a great design. Very nice drawing by the way.
Curious as to skid gage thickness and also pricing?
Thanks

 

[turbo8]

Looks like a great design. Very nice drawing by the way.
Curious as to skid gage thickness and also pricing?
Thanks

They are .120"/3mm thick.

I'm trying to keep these at $250 shipped (lower 48)

Thanks

 

[awesomeissquid]

I think the design is well thought out. Have you encountered any issues with them rotating from taking a hit? Maybe I am missing something in the design that keeps them aligned in the correct orientation.

 

[turbo8]

I think the design is well thought out. Have you encountered any issues with them rotating from taking a hit? Maybe I am missing something in the design that keeps them aligned in the correct orientation.

The skids are clamped on to the control arm, sorta like a bike stem. I then have the addition of the set screw in each clamp.

While testing on mine, I put my sway bar end link bolts in backwards, by accident, which caused contact on the skid. The skid bent but didn't rotate.

 

[awesomeissquid]

The skids are clamped on to the control arm, sorta like a bike stem. I then have the addition of the set screw in each clamp.

While testing on mine, I put my sway bar end link bolts in backwards, by accident, which caused contact on the skid. The skid bent but didn't rotate.View attachment 3013810

Nice! I love a good unintended abusive test like that. Definitely solves any concerns I had.

 

[abuck99]

I think it’s a clever bolt on solution for those guys don’t want or have the set up to weld some angle in place- or want to change control arms.

Not sure stainless is necessary over mild steel for cost considerations- length between 200 & 100 application seems minimal(non issue) as I see it the main benefit is support/reinforcement to keep the arm from bending

 

[turbo8]

I think it’s a clever bolt on solution for those guys don’t want or have the set up to weld some angle in place- or want to change control arms.

Not sure stainless is necessary over mild steel for cost considerations- length between 200 & 100 application seems minimal(non issue) as I see it the main benefit is support/reinforcement to keep the arm from bending

Thanks, that is what I wanted, a bolt on solution.

I'm not sure on the 100 series, but the 200 series you can only get new oem bushings if you buy the link assembly. So these can easily be transferred to new links.

Price difference between mild vs stainless for this application is very minimal and ih8rust

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Let me know if you need another test subject. This OEM arm had only 20k miles when I bent it

 

[turbo8]

@trdcorolla has a set and should be attempting the install today or tomorrow.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

The 200 and 100 lower rear trailing arms share the same specs.
Interested in getting a pair.

 

[hoser]

I'm not sure on the 100 series, but the 200 series you can only get new oem bushings if you buy the link assembly. So these can easily be transferred to new links.

The RLCA OE bushings for the 100 are NOT normally available from North America Toyota dealers. But can be had if buying from overseas (48702-60110) I suspect the same bushing will work for the 200.

I believe the overall length of the 100 vs 200 arms are slightly different. Would be great if somebody can measure (bolt center to bolt center).

I'd prefer to sleeve the OE arms but this looks like a good alternative, bolt-on solution. Many folks run extended rear sway bar links. It may or may not affect clearance (bolt head catching on skid, even if oriented correctly).

 

[turbo8]

100 series links are nearly identical in length (eye to eye). The reason the center tube length is longer on the 100 series is because the bushings are a little smaller. Same goes for the 120 series, same length smaller bushings.

 

[trdcorolla]

I got these skids installed. Here are some pictures, comments and some install notes I have.

I comes shipped in a heavy duty tube mailer and is protected with some foam sheets. It comes with a small tube of loctite. It didn't come with instructions but @turbo8 sent them in PDF via PM.

Since I have Trail Tailor RLCA skids, the way I spaced mine was leaving a 1/2" gap between the rear arm factory weld and the rear part of the skid and 3/4" gap between the front arm factory weld and the skid, I did this because of the RLCA skid overhang so it's probably really 1/2" of exposed arm for both sides. @turbo8 is still dialing in the installation hardware but I think the length is fine so he can use the same skid for both the 100 and 200.

Some install tips I have, read and follow the PDF instructions and use the info here to save you some time. You'll need a 5/32 hex key (for the clamp screws) and a 1/8 stubby hex key (for the set screws, a regular 1/8 will work for the rear and center set screw but I needed a stubby for the set screw on the front of the skid). The sizes and types of tools may change depending on how the installation hardware changes. Install the set screws into the clamps before getting under the 100. Don't forget to put loctite on the screws!

I did a rear spring changeout (rear on jackstands, remove the tires and flex the suspension with a jack, but I didn't remove my springs) to check for any clearance issues and didn't notice any.

Enough of my blabbering, here are some pictures! I'll be painting them black after the installation hardware is finalized.

It's not close the muffler, it's a bad angle.

Top view looking at the center and front clamps.

Rear bracket and swaybar gap

 

[trdcorolla]

Here's how close the skid is to the swaybar.

Here is the gap between skid and the swaybar

 

[turbo8]

I got these skids installed. Here are some pictures, comments and some install notes I have.

I comes shipped in a heavy duty tube mailer and is protected with some foam sheets. It comes with a small tube of loctite. It didn't come with instructions but @turbo8 sent them in PDF via PM.

Since I have Trail Tailor RLCA skids, the way I spaced mine was leaving a 1/2" gap between the rear arm factory weld and the rear part of the skid and 3/4" gap between the front arm factory weld and the skid, I did this because of the RLCA skid overhang so it's probably really 1/2" of exposed arm for both sides. @turbo8 is still dialing in the installation hardware but I think the length is fine so he can use the same skid for both the 100 and 200.

Some install tips I have, read and follow the PDF instructions and use the info here to save you some time. You'll need a 5/32 hex key (for the clamp screws) and a 1/8 stubby hex key (for the set screws, a regular 1/8 will work for the rear and center set screw but I needed a stubby for the set screw on the front of the skid). The sizes and types of tools may change depending on how the installation hardware changes. Install the set screws into the clamps before getting under the 100. Don't forget to put loctite on the screws!

I did a rear spring changeout (rear on jackstands, remove the tires and flex the suspension with a jack, but I didn't remove my springs) to check for any clearance issues and didn't notice any.

Enough of my blabbering, here are some pictures! I'll be painting them black after the installation hardware is finalized.

It's not close the muffler, it's a bad angle.
View attachment 3016054

Top view looking at the center and front clamps.
View attachment 3016055

Rear bracket and swaybar gap
View attachment 3016056

Thanks for doing this, much appreciated!

 

[MechE30]

Cool design! Not exactly a critique but if you want to reduce costs on those milled Al brackets you could just make them from thick Al angle, you loose the bar profile shape on the inside but you could still add the set screw and such for anti rotation. Good luck!

 

[turbo8]

I have more sets of these available now.

For the 100 series, the control arm diameter seems to vary a little, I'm supplying undercut countersunk hardware which will allow proper clamping force.

$250 shipped to the lower 48

If you are interested please pm me.

Thanks!