I made a custom sub box to fit behind the rear panel where the OEM sub was located. It's a very tight fit, but after testing it for a few weeks now, I'm extremely impressed with how it sounds for being such a small box. I'm no woodworker, this is probably the most I've done since high school shop class, but I still found it fairly simple to build.
This Dropbox link contains the sketchup file and pictures with dimensions.
The subwoofer used is the Pioneer TS-SW2502S4. This sub only requires .35 cubic feet, and this box comes in at just a hair over that.
I've never built a sub box before, so these two websites were incredibly valuable:
How to Build a Subwoofer Box | KICKER®
Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator
5/8" MDF was used, and I wouldn't recommend any thicker as there isn't a whole lot of space to work with. The only thing I would probably change if I did it again, is to sink the subwoofer into the box a little bit, but there isn't much room left in the box to push it in further so you'd need to use a router and shave off some space inside the box to allow this.
I used one small brace between the front and back pieces, just to minimize the chance of any vibrations.
Because it sticks out beyond the box, I had to use some foam to keep the panel from contacting the cone when it hits really hard. Other than that, the panel fits back on almost perfect (slight bulge where the sub is, and I didn't snap in the bottom two snaps on the panel). Foam was also used around the edges where the box contacts the body of the truck, to minimize vibrations and rattles.
If you dont have sketchup or use dropbox, the last image has the dimensions listed.
This Dropbox link contains the sketchup file and pictures with dimensions.
The subwoofer used is the Pioneer TS-SW2502S4. This sub only requires .35 cubic feet, and this box comes in at just a hair over that.
I've never built a sub box before, so these two websites were incredibly valuable:
How to Build a Subwoofer Box | KICKER®
Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator
5/8" MDF was used, and I wouldn't recommend any thicker as there isn't a whole lot of space to work with. The only thing I would probably change if I did it again, is to sink the subwoofer into the box a little bit, but there isn't much room left in the box to push it in further so you'd need to use a router and shave off some space inside the box to allow this.
I used one small brace between the front and back pieces, just to minimize the chance of any vibrations.
Because it sticks out beyond the box, I had to use some foam to keep the panel from contacting the cone when it hits really hard. Other than that, the panel fits back on almost perfect (slight bulge where the sub is, and I didn't snap in the bottom two snaps on the panel). Foam was also used around the edges where the box contacts the body of the truck, to minimize vibrations and rattles.
If you dont have sketchup or use dropbox, the last image has the dimensions listed.
I used some foam to keep the panel away from the woofer, no rattles yet. There's not a lot of room to work with, so you'd need to router out some of the back panel to sink it in a bit.
