Rear diff leaking oil
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I just had a rear diff. pinion seal fixed at my local shop...looked just like your pics. Used Toyo. OEM - $150. There are a few ways to fix the seal. The expensive way, I believe, requires you to drop the diff. The typical way (and I assume the way every shop does it even if you are charged $$$ for the expensive method) is to mark everything before the shaft/yoke is disconnected.
Pinion seal. Shouldn't be too bad.
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- #4
I know what the bad part is. But what is your definition of "shouldn't"
mr. secret place
ok so I looked at the FSM and looks rather complicated. Can anybody break it down for me... order new part, pull rear driveshaft and then what? How far back is the seal, or better yet, how much stuff do I need to remove?
Companion flange, dust deflector and next is the oil seal (where my issue is I think)
This will help you. You can do it yourself if you want to save $.
YouTube - pinion seal replacement
Secret place - haha that is funny. My sticker says Secret Spot so that's what I call it. It's actually a pretty good story. I figured i'd see you guys again and have more time to chat but you guys vanished. I spent a good deal of time trying to find you guys on thr trails but guess all the 100's were gone by Sat afternoon.
YouTube - pinion seal replacement
Secret place - haha that is funny. My sticker says Secret Spot so that's what I call it. It's actually a pretty good story. I figured i'd see you guys again and have more time to chat but you guys vanished. I spent a good deal of time trying to find you guys on thr trails but guess all the 100's were gone by Sat afternoon.
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- #6
right-o, it was something secret . I'll be up there this summer no dought. I crushed my rear lca mount on the driver side. No idea where, but it's dented and bent pretty good. Let me know if you want to go wheeling. Spend a few days out there.
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Been there too on the pinion seal. About 6-months after burying my rig in frame deep mud. Ditto for the t-case output seal. Gotta love that gritty mud.
If it's like every other Toyota I've worked on you will want to get a new stake nut and have a dremel tool or die grinder on hand. You will also need a , a 1/2" breaker bar and a big ass socket, a cheater, 1/2 inch torque wrench and some good wheel chocks.
Umm let me think, oh yeah you will need a cold chisel with a V point to re-set the stake nut.
You probably don't have to worry about the companion flange being grooved but check it out anyway. Also sometimes the splines get worn and even with a new seal there still will be some seepage.
Other than that it's a piece of cake.
Umm let me think, oh yeah you will need a cold chisel with a V point to re-set the stake nut.
You probably don't have to worry about the companion flange being grooved but check it out anyway. Also sometimes the splines get worn and even with a new seal there still will be some seepage.
Other than that it's a piece of cake.
Actually a few of us are planning on going back again sometime soon. I got a year pass again. It's worth it for $30.
Sorry to hear about the trail damage. Honestly every time we've been there someone has broken something. This year was no exception. My buddy with the White XJ on 42's broke both of his front lower control arm mounts on different days. He found a pretty nice machine shop in Biscoe (i think on the other side of Troy) and was able to get both welded up and reinforced. Pretty inconvenient situation though.
I developed a "popping" sound that sometimes occurs on my driver side when starting to accelerate or stopping suddenly. I will be looking into it this weekend.
Oh yeah if you can't fix the pinion seal for awhile you should keep topping it off with gear oil so you don't create a more expensive problem than you already have!
You got your truck muddy?
What is ACC?
So, in crawling under my truck last night while working on the new CVs I noticed that my rear pinion seal is leaking exactly as pictures in the first post. I had to replace the front very shortly after getting my ARBs and who knows how long the rear has been weeping. The procedure for replacing the front was pretty easy. Does anyone have experience with both? If the rear is the same as the front I wont hesitate to do it myself, should be an hour or so of work. Is there something that makes it more complicated?
Does anyone have the Toyota OEM Part # for the rear seal and any other required parts i.e. pinion nut? is it the same as the front?
Does anyone have the Toyota OEM Part # for the rear seal and any other required parts i.e. pinion nut? is it the same as the front?
I just ordered all of the seals plus pinion nut, carrier bearings for front and rear diff from beno this week as my locker install will use these parts while we are in there kind of thing. You can call onur and ref my order for all the part#s. Just remember I have a 99.