Nice setup you got there, I still haven't finished mine haha
Rear Cargo Box Build
- Thread starter scrowley
- Start date
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To OP - nice build! looks sharp & I like your design that leaves the front area access to store things like fishing poles (even bigger ones that are 2 piece, or firearms) w/o opening the trunk.
What do you figure that your cabinet weighs unloaded? Something in the 100# range?
What do you figure that your cabinet weighs unloaded? Something in the 100# range?
Nice write up man. I started my build yesterday but then got tickets to the ACC tournament so I had to put it on hold. Ill get some pictures up by Sunday when I finish.
One thing I did realize was how incapable I am at cutting a straight like with a circular saw haha.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
One thing I did realize was how incapable I am at cutting a straight like with a circular saw haha.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks! I am using the front for tools, etc. Stuff that I dont use that often. I would say your right on for the weight. Around 100 lb. maybe a bit under.
Another tip for cutting... Use a straight edge (4 ft. level or other) clamped down for your skil saw base to ride against. This gives perfect straight cuts. I used a table saw and my Festool skil saw with guide rail. made just for cutting ply sheets quick and straight.....Also a $800 tool though. But one of my favorites for cabinet / box building. It is most important that your box is square and to do this your ply sheet cuts have to be perftectly square and straight.
Another tip for cutting... Use a straight edge (4 ft. level or other) clamped down for your skil saw base to ride against. This gives perfect straight cuts. I used a table saw and my Festool skil saw with guide rail. made just for cutting ply sheets quick and straight.....Also a $800 tool though. But one of my favorites for cabinet / box building. It is most important that your box is square and to do this your ply sheet cuts have to be perftectly square and straight.
scrowley, great job on the box. Sounds rock-solid, simple and almost exactly what I had in-mind. If you were to do a single drawer, how wide could you go and still have it slide fairly easily? (Obviously, depends on how much stuff is stored inside). The reason I ask is, I plan to use an interior spare tire mount, along the pass side wheel well.
Those drawers are a thing of beauty! Can you shoot me a link for the hinges? I'm about to put in a drawer I bought and would like to rig up a side flap.
This may be a dumb question but how do you figure out exactly where to drill the mounting holes and get them to line up perfectly? I can just see myself drilling 10 holes and having none of them work LOL.
This may be a dumb question but how do you figure out exactly where to drill the mounting holes and get them to line up perfectly? I can just see myself drilling 10 holes and having none of them work LOL.
Don't know how SCrowley did it, but when I did mine the top was all open until late in the build. I tied it down the first time when everything was open and easy to get to. On my design, the rails that hold the slides (mine's a little different, but not much) leave the area open to the carpet on the floor. Some folks use a sheet of plywood and bolt through it, but using a bar that snuggles down so the frame still sits on the floor when bolted to it is key to maximizing space in the drawers and getting maximum sleeping space on top.
I took a 1/4" x 2" bar, drilled it to match the seat holddown locations, tested them to be surethey bolted up. Then I set my open framework back into the truck over the bar. I marked the locations to attach the bars, removed everything from the truck, turned the drawer frame upside down, then I attached the bars to the bottom of the frame at the marked locations. Flipped the frame back over, installed in the truck, bolted it down.
I think the OP here agrees with my philosophy, which is to make sure it's bolted down as best possible in the event of an accident. Different ways to do it, but make sure you do.
- Thread starter
- #28
Thanks! I would think with a spare tire carrier the box size you would be left with would be fine as a single. The drawers are not as easy to pull out than having actual drawer slides but we are all men here...right. Just have to pull a little harder. I have never had an issue with mine. If your interested in a custom box built to your specs and carpeted shoot me a PM
The hinges are called "full overlay european hinge". They can be found at depot or lowes.
Thanks! For the main box mounting holes I built my main box which is the center section with front tool compartment. After box was complete I put it in the 80, got it positioned in the center, went underneath the truck and drilled pilot holes up throught the mounting holes for the old third row seats. Then from the top I morticed/recessed out a hole that accepts a 1" washer for each mounting hole. Then drilled out the whole for the right size bolt.
Wouldn't the wood eventually expand and contract depending on the weather and conditions??
Otherwise great build. I am going to be starting mine soon but wont be building drawers, instead it will have top-down accessible compartments with some cubby's in the rear for quick and easy tool retrieval.
Really, great work!!
Plywood tends not to have the expansion and contraction problems of solid planking. It is glued together layers that are at 90 deg angles to each other making it very stable.
In response to slides vs no slides. My brother (who is a hardwood floor contractor) built 6'long drawers in the back of his sprinter and used nylon strips on the bottoms and sides to let them slide easier when loaded with tools. They work really well. Just enough friction to keep them in place when parked on a hill but pull surprisingly easy even with a couple hundred pounds of tools in them.
- Thread starter
- #32
Clear coat and bees wax on ply boxes is cheaper and just as effective IMO.
Another way I have done "no slide" boxes is to use ball catches morticed into the underside of box. Ball catches are normally used on interior french doors. So the underside of the box glides on the stainless balls.
Another way I have done "no slide" boxes is to use ball catches morticed into the underside of box. Ball catches are normally used on interior french doors. So the underside of the box glides on the stainless balls.
^^ not a bad idea!
One note, on friction slides remember that after a certain amount of travel the load is going to shift to the very front of the interior base and the trailing upper edge of the drawer. Point being, don't forget those areas for friction reduction.
scrowley, so when (if) you remove this, your coming in from under the truck correct? Your just using a captured nut (or one of those flat ones with spiked feet, can't remember what they are called) on the interior?
One note, on friction slides remember that after a certain amount of travel the load is going to shift to the very front of the interior base and the trailing upper edge of the drawer. Point being, don't forget those areas for friction reduction.
scrowley, so when (if) you remove this, your coming in from under the truck correct? Your just using a captured nut (or one of those flat ones with spiked feet, can't remember what they are called) on the interior?
Love the design! I don't suppose you have the exact measurements for those of us who aren't as woodworkingly (my word) inclined?
- Thread starter
- #36
From the top (inside the drawer part of the box) a bolt with washer go through the box and through the OEM third row holes and a washer, lock washer and nut under the truck. The bolt head and washer are morticed into the box so it does not interfer with the drawer box while sliding. Look on the first page of this thread at my pics and the last pic shows the mounting. There are 8 total bolts. I can have this unit out and back to OEM in probably 5 min. Take more time to get all the stuff out.
I don't have the measurements. I have recently posted these for sale on my local club forum (yankee toys) if you are interested. PM for details.
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Do you have any posts for how you added the catches? I want to add some catches to mine and am having a hard time deciding on what I want to do. Something to keep the flip-ups from opening in case of an accident/flop.
- Thread starter
- #38
Few more pics for reference.
One pic shows the 4 out of 8 mounting points that are inside where each drawer is located.
The front storage is quite large. I have both front and rear driveshafts in there as well as tools, etc.
One pic shows the 4 out of 8 mounting points that are inside where each drawer is located.
The front storage is quite large. I have both front and rear driveshafts in there as well as tools, etc.
Great carpentry !!! Professional looking build. I want one now!!! Maybe I'll try my hand at wood working.
I know a couple guys with rear drawer systems without slides and they keep heavy gear in theirs and don't have problems not having drawer sliders.
I know a couple guys with rear drawer systems without slides and they keep heavy gear in theirs and don't have problems not having drawer sliders.
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- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks man. No drawer slides is the way to go IMO.
Also if you want a set I can build you one. I actually posted these for sale in my local club forum Yankee Toys. Not sure how shipping would work on it. But I am willing to see. PM me if your interested or have any questions.
Also if you want a set I can build you one. I actually posted these for sale in my local club forum Yankee Toys. Not sure how shipping would work on it. But I am willing to see. PM me if your interested or have any questions.