rear axle semi float

[wpns4l]

Tomorrow im gonna do the oil seals and bearings on my 92 with semi float. I have the FSM and it looks like a pretty easy job but it seems every time i try to do anything on this truck it turns into a huge mess.

Anything i need to be looking out for or any tips?

 

[mr jits]

As long as you have a beefy bearing puller it's a very simple job.

 

[WarWagon]

Keep us informed with pics if possible....I have a '91 that'll be needing the same. Thanks

 

[Cove]

As long as you have a beefy bearing puller it's a very simple job.

X2. Did this on my 92. Easy, straight forward replacement.

 

[Cruzerman]

If this is similar to my FJ60, you can use a slide hammer to get these out. I borrowed one free from Auto Zone. Worked like a champ.

 

[Mixelplix]

Autozone Slidehammer worked on my '91

 

[86tuning]

If you're having fun with the slide hammer, ie stuck axle, you should put the jackstands under the axle housing, on concrete. This will minimize the movement of the housing while you whack it out. Also try a towel or rope on the slide weight to fling or slingshot it out.

In reality, once all of the fasteners are out it should slide apart easily unless there's a lot of rust.

Had a previa axle stuck once, and a 4Runner. Plenty of AE86 stuck axles, but the few early FJ axles we've worked on were easy.

 

[wpns4l]

Axle rebuild

All done... write up with pics.

Things you will need;
1. 2 new oil seals
2. 2 new bearings
3. 80-90 gear oil
4. MP grease
5. New gasket. I could not find them anywhere so used RTV sealer.
6. As mentioned above a really good bearing puller. I tried a slide hammer wasnt working for me.

Step 1.
Jack that truck up and drain your rear diff. As always open the fill plug first before the drain plug. While thats draining out go ahead and remove tires and the three nuts holding the LSPV shackle and brake cable to the diff cover. 3 nuts marked in red. drain/fill plug marked in blue.

Step 2.
Once all is drained there are 10 nuts holding the diff cover on. The bottom ones i had to use a regular wrench for since the sway bar gets in the way of a socket. Once they are all off i used a putty knife to get the cover off. Go ahead and scrape the old gasket off and set aside.

Step 3.
Remove the retaining pin and the pinion shaft and spacer. Retraining pit just screws out. Then the shaft and spacer will fall right out. I had to put the truck in neutral so i could move the gears around to expose the pin and for later on when putting back together. Retaining pin marked in red. Shaft and spacer in yellow.

Step 4.
Push your axle in from the outside... you can also see all the sludge from my oil leak all over the caliper and brake parts.

Step 5.
Remove the c-clip holding the axle. Very easy.. probably fell off on its own when you pushed your axle in. Then you can pull the axle right out easily. Clip marked in red.

Step 6.
I used a regular old oil seal puller and mallet to get my seals out. The bearing were tough. I tried using a slide hammer at first but didnt have any luck. Finally got a bearing puller from Pittsburgh steal and still had to ghetto rig it a little to get it to work. Didnt take a pic sorry, was to preoccupied.

Step 7.
Pack new bearing with MP grease and drive it on home with a race. Then use the race and bang the new seal in.

Step 8.
Put axles back in and put the c-lip on. Then just push the axle out to secure the c-clip.

Step 9.
pinion shaft and spacer back in. As i mentioned earlier you might have to turn the drive shaft and wheels to get everything to line back up. Then place the retaining pin back in snug it up. Not to tight, i believe its only like 14lbs torque.

Step 10.
Put your new gasket on or in my case RTV. Put the cover on and secure. I did a star pattern just to make sure it secured evenly. Also replace the brake cable and LSPV shackle.

Step 11.
Put your drums back on and tires. All done.

Over all took me about 4 hours. My goal was to do it in 2 but i got slowed down getting my drums off and getting the bearings out.