Rear ABS Wheel Sensor Replacement QUESTION (1 Viewer)

[apalt]

Is the sensor accessible from the outboard side without removing the backing plate and hub? I haven't been in there ever and it looks like the axle is continuous with the hub, so to get the backing plate off the whole axle has to come out? That sounds like an epic pain in the ass to replace the sensor.

I'm getting ready to swap out the RR sensor. Of course I will start on the inboard side and pray that I can slowly work the sensor free, but I think that is unlikely based on corrosion, so I am anticipating having to come at it from both sides.

Appreciate any wisdom from anyone that has address the dashboard Christmas lights (ATRAC/VSC/Brake/ABS) and code 33 on the ABS.

apalt

 

[badlander]

Yes, sensors are located on the diff side of the backing plate. Upper rear side of axle tube. Easy to get to. Sensor ring, on the other hand, is inside the hub. I believe it's on the inboard side of the axle bearing but not sure. Wouldn't want to have to change that.
On the plus side, you can inspect it through the sensor hole. I had a dirty sensor code for the driver side rear and was able to clean off some debris with a cue-tip through the hole and th as cured the issue.

 

[mmm635]

It is not too bad. You will definitely need a puller, or you can cut the ABS ring and lock ring off if you have new ones.

240k on mine and it looks brand new. Chances are, it is the sensor that has gunk all over it.

 

[mmm635]

It is not too bad. You will definitely need a puller, or you can cut the ABS ring and lock ring off if you have new ones.

240k on mine and it looks brand new. Chances are, it is the sensor that has gunk all over it.View attachment 1881747

 

[mmm635]

View attachment 1881747 It is not too bad. You will definitely need a puller, or you can cut the ABS ring and lock ring off if you have new ones.

240k on mine and it looks brand new. Chances are, it is the sensor that has gunk all

 

[apalt]

Thanks for the responses so far. My question is NOT about the sensor ring, rather the actual sensor. I am concerned that the sensor will be frozen and I won't be able to get it out from just the inboard side and that I will need to access it from the outboard side as well. Is this possible without pulling the hub?

 

[Knowbuddy]

Not to be lazy or anything but I recently replace my passenger rear sensor. But I bought the entire kit and then had my local shop guy do it while I was in for a service he charged me half an hour in labor.

 

[Knowbuddy]

Not to be lazy or anything but I recently replace my passenger rear sensor. But I bought the entire kit and then had my local shop guy do it while I was in for a service he charged me half an hour in labor.

 

[Ben S]

We playing the repeater game tonight?

 

[YardPig]

50/50 chance it's frozen. Some I've removed come out by hand easily, others are a fight. You can try and undo the bolt and then twist the sensor with a pair of pliers in it's hole but if it isn't moving at all then it will break. Removing it from the backside will destroy it.

 

[apalt]

Yardpig - if you destroy it while trying to remove it from inboard side of the car, can it still be removed from that side, or do you have to come at it from the other side and push it out? I have a replacement sensor/harness and don't care about destroying it, but want to make sure I have a good chance of getting it out from only one side before I start.

Thanks!

 

[badlander]

The rear sensors do not mount like the front ones. They are mounted ON THE AXLE TUBE and project into the tube, not into the backing plate. My truck is a rust bucket and it came out easily. If I recall correctly it even had an o-ring seal so it should not be rusted in place.

 

[apalt]

Badlander - Thanks for the testimonial...exactly what I was looking for!

 

[apalt]

UPDATE for anyone searching info on this job in the future. The job was simple and the sensor came out without a fuss. There are 5 wire clips that you have to fight with, but once you figure out how they work it's an easy job. Clean up the sensor housing with a wire wheel on a dremel, as there is likely some corrosion in the there. My ABS dash was sending code 33, 41, and 46. 33 is the one for the right rear ABS sensor. All dash lights have clear after sensor replacement and test drive. Whole job took about an hour.

 

[Blackwater]

Good update apalt.. thanks! Glad it worked out for you.

I need to do my rear left with similar codes going on.. Did you end up going OE Toyota sensor or aftermarket?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Ironically, I will be tackling this job next week when my new sensor arrives. My current rear right sensor is in there pretty tight, due to corrosion...could be an interesting wrestle, as I suspect I'll break the sensor when I try to remove it.

 

[apalt]

I went with OEM. Learned my lesson long ago on non-OEM electrical stuff with several alternators from Car Quest.

I wouldn't be too concerned that your sensor will be corrosion frozen. That was my concern as well, but now after having removed and replaced it, the O-ring does a great job prevent seizing from rust.

 

[badlander]

It also helps to lube the sensor and the bore with silicone grease to prevent future seizing.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

My sensor was frozen in there pretty well. I tried prying it with a screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and a few other tools before totally destroying it. In the end, I had to pull of my rear right tire, drill a pilot hole into the old sensor, put a screw into the plastic of the sensor and pull it out. I don't imagine I could have removed the sensor without destroying it, but all is well now with a new one in place.