Rear 12v DC improvements - what have you done?

[doodahoops]

Before I go down the full split charge route I plan on making my rear DC socket more useful.

Take the existing socket and add a switch (facing outwards), meter, 2x 12v outlets (fridge & water pump), 4x USB for charging lights etc…

Thoughts…

It’s rated at 120w so guess there is a 10A fuse somewhere.

 

[yeos]

Before I go down the full split charge route I plan on making my rear DC socket more useful.

View attachment 2878976

Take the existing socket and add a switch (facing outwards), meter, 2x 12v outlets (fridge & water pump), 4x USB for charging lights etc…

View attachment 2878977

Thoughts…

It’s rated at 120w so guess there is a 10A fuse somewhere.

I didn't want to deal with the voltage drop that the factory wiring might cause so I set up a power point using a blue sea unit on the factory jack access panel. I ran 10ga wire back to the panel and mainly run my fridge off of it. Another plus for me is that it's now on an always on circuit.

 

[Shpnout]

I did the same set up as Yeos but located the Blue sea switch and plugs above the hatch panel as to not interfere and to keep the area accessible for storage. My fridge is on the left side of the cargo area and having the plug located higher up make them easer to access. I would reconsider using the existing wiring at the 120v plug due to voltage drop issues. I ran the 10awg direct to battery.

 

[doodahoops]

Thanks. Will wire it and see what the voltage drop from that socket is. I don’t have a 120v socket as it’s an LC120, though I do have 2 batteries fitted as standard..

And to buck the trend I have my fridge on the right hand side…

 

[CO_Hunter]

I have Anderson power pole port on back right where the fridge goes, 10 awg from blue sea fuse block run off second house battery. Circuit is always hot. It also feeds a power port on the back of center console. I had a 12v plug and receptacle but didn’t like it back there.

Check the voltage drop under full load.