Really? Another post about speakers? Showing my solution.

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Aug 27, 2007
Flagstaff Arizona
Rather than post the usual “Hey guys, what kind of components are you running?” I thought I would share what I did and see if I can contribute to a place that has so much amazing knowledge.

Previous posts talk about fitting 6.5” speakers in the front doors but the caveat is that if you want to preserve the stock look and keep the mounting depth to a minimum, and there will be a slight bulge in the door card.

Truth be told, the ‘slight’ bulge is more than slight to me. It was enough that I wanted to find a different solution. For my solution to work for you, you will need to reuse pieces of the original speakers as well as the covers that are attached to the door card, so if your sound system is still stock, this might work for you.

I tried the recommended Pioneer 6.5” speakers (TS-G1645R) and although they have a minimal mounting depth, they still required a spacer. I started with a 3/6 thick piece of plywood and that kept the back of the speaker from contacting the window tract. Unfortunately, it does cause a bulge as the front of the speaker frame pushes on the stock speaker grill frame that is attached to the door card. Maybe it’s only at the rivets, but that was enough for me.

As a solution, I opted for a smaller speaker, Pioneer TS-G1320F, 5.25” coax speakers. When comparing to stock they actually look the same size so I figured I would give it a try. The 5.25” would require an adapter plate and I started with plywood but found that I would still run into the same problem as above so instead, I decided to cup up the stock speaker.

I literally cut the supports from the stock speaker and used the ring from the stock speaker to mount the new speaker. This way, I don’t add thickness where the rivets are but only where the grill cover is. Below are pictures of the cuts on the stock speaker, 3M double sided foam tape, and screws to attach the new speaker to the old speaker frame.

Below is the stock speaker. Notice the amazing surround, held together with only hope.

I removed the speaker and cut the braces of the speaker

I added thin strips of 3M double sided foam tape, drilled holes in the ring and screwed the new speaker to the old speaker ring.

I also trimmed off the ears of the new speakers and mounted the speakers back in the door.


to be continued...
For the rear speakers, I followed the MUD recommendation and installed Pioneer 4” TS-G1020F using the stock speaker adapters. I removed the original speakers (screw in the middle of the speaker in the back) and trimmed the plastic adapters to fit the new speakers.

I applied the same 3M foam tape and bent the tabs down and screwed them in place. Not too pretty but it created a good seal to the adapter and that will help with sound quality.

Finally, I needed some lower frequency to round out the sound so I created a custom bracket to hold a Cerwin-Vega Powered sub (VPAS10) and placed it in the stock location of the original woofer.

Below is some scrap metal I used and the original woofer bracket to model from

And the resulting powered sub in the car.


In all, I’m very happy with the results. I won’t win any sound competitions but it sounds good at 65 mph with the windows down and that is all I need.

Hope this helps someone else out.


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