Real time help: trailer brake controller location? (1 Viewer)

[linuxgod]

View attachment 1725933 There’s always Redarc.

What’s your trailer? I’ve been considering the Redarc because reaching down to adjust my controller is a pain.

My Primus IQ controller used to work well with my old trailer but I haven’t been thrilled with performance with my newer Lance. Weight, brakes, etc are similar but with the old trailer i needed little boost and had to be careful not to lock up the trailer brakes. With the new setup the brakes need a lot of boost to lock up which makes them feel like the trailer jerks me at low speed braking but emergency stopping is still meh. This is only the second trailer I’ve owned my brakes so I’m not sure if a different controller would help.

 

[ForrestGrump]

@linuxgod Could also be the trailer brakes needing adjustment. I'm guessing you probably have electric rather than hydraulic brakes. Depending on the age of the brakes,type, and the last time it was done, you may want to do a manual adjustment of the brakes on the trailer to make sure they're working right.

 

[OregonLC]

It's a CDN-M101. 1,500-2,000 lbs depending upon how I load it. I converted it to 10" electric drums, which are completely insufficient for the 35s that are on it, but it does produce enough braking force to slow both the trailer and the tuck when applied.

It took some time to find a mounting location for the knob in the console side panel. It's a substantial switch behind the knob. This location is absolutely perfect, very easy reach and an intuitive position right at then end of the e-brake. Tap (or hold) the button in and brakes are applied.

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod Could also be the trailer brakes needing adjustment. I'm guessing you probably have electric rather than hydraulic brakes. Depending on the age of the brakes,type, and the last time it was done, you may want to do a manual adjustment of the brakes on the trailer to make sure they're working right.

Possibly. Yes they are electric drum brakes. The trailer is a 2015, I just purchased it in the spring. I don't know how much the PO used it but given the tire tread I don't think it had more than 5k of use.

They do grip (almost too) hard when I use a higher boost setting (the Prodigy IQ has 3 boost levels) even with the actual voltage turned down. It just seems like they don't want to lock up.

 

[TeCKis300]

With my setup and a Prodigy P3… which I assume is similar to the optimus.

My gain is set pretty high. Somewhere in the 10.8-11.5 range. Usually when brakes are cold, I have the gain in the upper range. As they warm up and have more friction, I will lower the gain. This is typical of the Dexter torsion axles with electric drum brakes used in Airstreams, and a whole bunch of other trailers.

As for boost function, yes it can be grabby. Which is what it’s designed to do, as it boosts initial clamping force upon detection of the brake lamp (instead of proportional braking detected by inertial sensors). In this way, the trailer brakes lead the tow vehicle, keeping the hitch in tension. I usually use boost level 1 (B1) at highway speeds. Then turn it off at low speeds in town.

I’ve adjusted my trailer brakes last season (via star wheel), so I know my trailer brakes in good order.

 

[linuxgod]

With my setup and a Prodigy P3… which I assume is similar to the optimus.

My gain is set pretty high. Somewhere in the 10.8-11.5 range. Usually when brakes are cold, I have the gain in the upper range. As they warm up and have more friction, I will lower the gain. This is typical of the Dexter torsion axles with electric drum brakes used in Airstreams, and a whole bunch of other trailers.

As for boost function, yes it can be grabby. Which is what it’s designed to do, as it boosts initial clamping force upon detection of the brake lamp (instead of proportional braking detected by inertial sensors). In this way, the trailer brakes lead the tow vehicle, keeping the hitch in tension. I usually use boost level 1 (B1) at highway speeds. Then turn it off at low speeds in town.

I’ve adjusted my trailer brakes last season (via star wheel), so I know my trailer brakes in good order.

Good to hear you have a similar effect. I had the same torsion axles on the old trailer too (as well as this one), but I was able to lock 'em up much sooner. Maybe I'll jack up the rear and adjust the drums next week before my next trip.

 

[TeCKis300]

I upsized my trailer tires from 225/75/15 to 235/75/15, loosing some brake torque in the process. I'm unable to lock up my trailer tires now with the added traction and reduced leverage. Brakes still work well enough.

 

[OregonLC]

Try a 295/70R18 with 10" drums!

 

[linuxgod]

@OregonLC, better upgrade your LC brakes if you're going that big!

@TeCKis300 or others, anyone know of an LT D-load 205/75R14 tire? I can't upsize from 205/75R14 as there's not enough clearance between the axles, but I'd really like to dump the ST tires in favor of D or E load LT ones. I've read that LT tires should have a similar sidewall strength to ST, but handle much faster speeds than ST which are typically 65MPH limited.

 

[OregonLC]

@OregonLC, better upgrade your LC brakes if you're going that big!

Trailer brakes alone will still top both the truck and trailer, it just doesn't have enough friction to lock them up. The 295s were installed to match my 100 so that I would have a common spare. I need to swap those out to the 275/70s on the 200. Hard spending the $500 to do so...

 

[TeCKis300]

@OregonLC, better upgrade your LC brakes if you're going that big!

@TeCKis300 or others, anyone know of an LT D-load 205/75R14 tire? I can't upsize from 205/75R14 as there's not enough clearance between the axles, but I'd really like to dump the ST tires in favor of D or E load LT ones. I've read that LT tires should have a similar sidewall strength to ST, but handle much faster speeds than ST which are typically 65MPH limited.

A cursory look doesn't show any LT tires. Only trailer service and P-rated tires - https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...4&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17

A P-rated tire can be used for trailer service. When used as such, there needs to be a mandatory 10% de-rating of the P-load rating for trailer use. If the de-rated capacity still meets your load needs, then you can use them.

I've done the same on my trailer for the same reasons. I use P-rated H/T tires on my trailer. Though I've heard great things about Goodyear Endurance tires and may opt for that next time.

 

[linuxgod]

A cursory look doesn't show any LT tires. Only trailer service and P-rated tires - https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...4&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17

A P-rated tire can be used for trailer service. When used as such, there needs to be a mandatory 10% de-rating of the P-load rating for trailer use. If the de-rated capacity still meets your load needs, then you can use them.

I've done the same on my trailer for the same reasons. I use P-rated H/T tires on my trailer. Though I've heard great things about Goodyear Endurance tires and may opt for that next time.

I've heard you should never use a P-metric tire for trailers as the sidewalls are too compliant and will allow for excess sway. I don't think I could find a P-metric that had a strong enough sidewall anyway (it would need to be at least D-load rated for my trailer).

Apparently Hankook makes a D-load LT205/75R14, but it's only available in Europe and Australia. I've found one place in the US that lists them, but they're only sold in the stores and I'd have to drive 8 hours to get them.

Hankook 205R14 D VANTRA LT RA18 | Graham Tire

 

[TeCKis300]

I've heard you should never use a P-metric tire for trailers as the sidewalls are too compliant and will allow for excess sway. I don't think I could find a P-metric that had a strong enough sidewall anyway (it would need to be at least D-load rated for my trailer).

Apparently Hankook makes a D-load LT205/75R14, but it's only available in Europe and Australia. I've found one place in the US that lists them, but they're only sold in the stores and I'd have to drive 8 hours to get them.

Hankook 205R14 D VANTRA LT RA18 | Graham Tire

While P-metric tires generally have softer sidewalls, it's not completely true they are always softer, nor that they should not be used for trailer use. The derating factor takes care of this and is what's considered if it can be used or not.

Each P-metric tires has a load capacity code behind the size. That is what needs to be considered, then derated. In the size you're looking at for P, it's 95 which is 1521lbs. Derated, 1369 lbs. 4 tires at that rating, 5475lbs. Perhaps not enough capacity for your trailer.

In the Airstream world, they come out of the factory with P-metric tires. Specifically Michelin LTX tires, in P-rated sizes. Which is moot as you can't get one in your size that has the necessary load capacity.

 

[Cruisin911]

@GoISU If it's not a heavy trailer you're towing, or not regularly towing for that matter, I can understand this placement. I'm constantly hitting my leg on my P3. I'm still contemplating moving to the Redarc but waiting to hear more reviews first.

I’ve had my Redarc for over a year now and towed regularly with it across various trailers. Hands down best controller I’ve ever used. Moved from the P3 to the redarc.

 

[ForrestGrump]

@Cruisin911 what kind of trailer are you towing and what's the length/weight?

 

[TeCKis300]

I’ve had my Redarc for over a year now and towed regularly with it across various trailers. Hands down best controller I’ve ever used. Moved from the P3 to the redarc.

Ah! Someone that has used both.

Can you tell us a bit more? Both ForrestGrumps question. And what you noticed differently in behavior between the controllers? I really like the idea of the redarc for its form factor.

 

[cru1s3r]

...Can you tell us a bit more? Both ForrestGrumps question. And what you noticed differently in behavior between the controllers? I really like the idea of the redarc for its form factor.

+1 I'm very interested in any feedback/comparisons Cruisin911 could provide as well. Thanks!

 

[TLCLVR]

It's been a while, but here's my solution for my '13 LX570 for future searchers.

I use a Teconsha 90195 P3 brake controller which works very well. It also happens to be just the right size to fit snugly into the compartment to the left of the LX steering wheel and very easy to access while towing! I fed the controller cable through the back of the compartment directly to the plug-in and put velcro on the compartment and controller bottom to hold it firm. When not in use I unplug it and throw it in the glovebox. The cable remains neatly hidden!

 

[Cruisin911]

@Cruisin911 what kind of trailer are you towing and what's the length/weight?

Currently I'm towing a 2017 Turtleback Expedition. I'm guessing its less than 2k empty. Closer to 3k loaded for a long trip. Total length may be 12ft? Examples can be found here: High Quality Off Road Trailer For Sale | Turtleback Trailers

Ah! Someone that has used both.

Can you tell us a bit more? Both ForrestGrumps question. And what you noticed differently in behavior between the controllers? I really like the idea of the redarc for its form factor.

To be quite honest, form factor was a huge bonus for me. I hate the look of stuff hanging out of or under the dash. My stubby legs always hit that stuff. The manual control of the trailer, multiple modes, and super ease of use is what has sold me. The P3 was a set and forget for each trailer kind of thing. The Redarc has been super easy, self calibrates, and has been flawless. I have towed a 8k+ Flagstaff 31 ft travel trailer, a 4k+ Fleetwood Evolution E3, and now tow my Turtleback regularly.

+1 I'm very interested in any feedback/comparisons Cruisin911 could provide as well. Thanks!

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Not sure why it didn't notify me.

 

[CharlieS]

I've used the Tekonsha Prodigy controller, and a couple of others and now have the Redarc. I really like the Redarc and would highly recommend it.