Real time help-brake rotor removal

Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
66
Cant for the life of me get my rear rotors off. Anyone have any tips? Already tried inserting bolts into the little holes to pop it loose to no avail. Need to get this done today so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

spressomon

glutton
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You don't by chance have the parking/e-brake engaged do you? My rear rotors have always slipped right off unless the parking/e-brake was engaged or adjusted too snugly.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
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Its not engaged but perhaps it is tight and needs adjusted? Thanks for the quick reply btw.
 

spressomon

glutton
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While you're back there...and since you are having difficulty you need to check it anyway...check the parking/e-brake bell crank. Typically it doesn't seem to take much water and/or salt water to get these to completely corrode so they don't move...
 
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Dec 8, 2006
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Western Mass
I've had luck on other vehicles when the rotors were stuck.... Loosen the bolts, but don't take all the way off and lower the vehicle to apply the vehicle's wieght...
 

CharlieS

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Feb 4, 2005
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Make sure the e-brake is not engaged, line up the little hole in the rotor (rubber plug, IIRC) with the star wheel at the 6 o'clock position, back off the ebrake shoes all the way with the star wheel adjuster, use a big F'n hammer to hit the rotor as you pull it outward. The ebrake shoes can wear a ridge into the inside drum area.

Depending upon where you are, make sure you have the spare parts to rebuild it all on hand. Bellcranks seize, springs rust, special aluminum c-clips are one time use (especially in the Northeast).

I got to rebuild all of mine when I got my 100 - first project - yay!
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
66
Ended up getting them off that day, but thanks for all the suggestions. I threaded a bolt into each of the little holes on the rotor wich broke them loose.
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
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75
I'm having trouble removing the front rotors on my '99 LX 470. I've soak the the cone washers in penetrating oil, reinstalled the nuts...then wack them hard with a hammer and brass bar, but the cone washers nor flange will move. Thanks for the help.
 
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Apr 27, 2003
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Salt Lake City
Don't put the nuts on so tight that the cone washers can't move. All the nut is doing is keeping the cone washer from shooting across the garage. One of two turns is plenty. You don't even need to do that if you hold your hand or sit in front of the flange. Then smack the horizontal part of the flange with a hammer working your way around.
 
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Jan 15, 2011
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Smacking the top of the flange worked. I had to smack it a few times, spin and smack again...but one cone washer...then another...and another...Thanks Trunk Monkey.
 
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Aug 19, 2010
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Long Island, NY
I'm currently working on removing the rear rotors. How much loosening of the star should I be doing? I can rotate the rotor by hand. (Both wheels are up in the air)
 
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Apr 27, 2003
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You shouldn't have to back them off very much. Just work your way around with a BFH, clanging on the front lip and kind of hitting forward. They'll start working their way off the pads.
 
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Thanks Trunk. i loosened the star as far as it would go. Now when you say "work your way around with a BFH..." I should hit the front lip of where? ...and wacking it inboard? Are you referring to the part of the rotor close to the lugs? (obviously not the lugs) Is it advisable to hit the part of the rotor with a wood drift and a BFH where the caliper would sit (in an outboard direction)? (I'm replacing the rotor and don't believe the existing rotor has enough to be resurfaced)
 
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Hit the red x. Obviously you'd have removed the pad and caliper holder shown in this pic. Work your way around, hitting the same spot. I've never used a drift, you can smack on that surface pretty hard and it won't mark.

Rear Brake wo Caliper web.JPG
 

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