Real Time Advice needed - Front Sway Bar - **Resolved** Thank You! (1 Viewer)

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Thanks - This thread goes with me when I get back. I'm pretty sure they know about the kdss, they're pretty familiar with LC's. That was the first question they asked when I set up the appointment for the lift.
To be fair, it came back nice and level when they installed everything a couple weeks ago - all good except for that bolt falling out thing.

I do believe in being human, give grace, we're all going to miss something once in a while. Just own it.

Also going to research and become familiar with the kdss system, that didn't come OEM on my 40.
Some light reading when you get a minute:

 
Glad you were able to field repair this. I just saw the thread.

If the bolt you used isn't Grade 8, I'd go through the effort of ordering the right bolt and replacing it when you have a chance. The factory bolts have some markings I'm not entirely familiar with but the one Toyota bolt marking PDF I found calls them grade 6 or something like that I'm unfamiliar with. More importantly, the factory bolts are flanged, so if the one you bought is in fact grade 8 then at least get a suitable washer.

Particularly if you're using a non-Toyota bolt I'd make sure you put some anti-seize on the threads.

On the plus side you can remove and reinstall that bolt without monkeying with the sway bar arm at all, so it's pretty easy now that everything is aligned.

LMK if you need torque specs
 
Glad you were able to field repair this. I just saw the thread.

If the bolt you used isn't Grade 8, I'd go through the effort of ordering the right bolt and replacing it when you have a chance. The factory bolts have some markings I'm not entirely familiar with but the one Toyota bolt marking PDF I found calls them grade 6 or something like that I'm unfamiliar with. More importantly, the factory bolts are flanged, so if the one you bought is in fact grade 8 then at least get a suitable washer.

Particularly if you're using a non-Toyota bolt I'd make sure you put some anti-seize on the threads.

On the plus side you can remove and reinstall that bolt without monkeying with the sway bar arm at all, so it's pretty easy now that everything is aligned.

LMK if you need torque specs
As I recall, the factory bolt comes with a light coating of red thread locker on it.

The lesson I was reminded of when I lost that same bolt on mine was the importance of making sure you’ve checked the torque on all fasteners. I know that I had backed that bolt off because I was seeing the cage around it compress, and didn’t go back and check the torque. It simply worked its way out over a couple of weeks. I’d double check the value, but it is around 100 foot pounds.
 
Glad you were able to field repair this. I just saw the thread.

If the bolt you used isn't Grade 8, I'd go through the effort of ordering the right bolt and replacing it when you have a chance. The factory bolts have some markings I'm not entirely familiar with but the one Toyota bolt marking PDF I found calls them grade 6 or something like that I'm unfamiliar with. More importantly, the factory bolts are flanged, so if the one you bought is in fact grade 8 then at least get a suitable washer.

Particularly if you're using a non-Toyota bolt I'd make sure you put some anti-seize on the threads.

On the plus side you can remove and reinstall that bolt without monkeying with the sway bar arm at all, so it's pretty easy now that everything is aligned.

LMK if you need torque specs

Thank You!
I was able to get a Grade 8, but I'm getting a stock bolt ASAP. This just needs to get me home today (287 miles) through the middle of nowhere for most of the drive.
Tomorrow I'll take it in and have all the rest of the lift install gone over and the kdss adjusted.
 
I'm sure you have, but I'd be checking the other side bolt too before the trip.
 
It is 100lb-ft. I assume the shop will torque it correctly this time.
 

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