Re-Gearing my 80 (1 Viewer)

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HeavyWeight

HeavyWeight

Joined
Jan 30, 2019
Threads
6
Messages
20
Location
Huntsville Alabama
So I’ve been wanting to re-gear my fzj80, and I am currently running 35” tires with the stock 4.10 gears. I want to install 4.88s, that way it’ll be just a little lower than stock, and I’d be able to run 37s in the future if I ever decide too. My question is, since I’ll be buying a new ring a pinion set front and rear, I want to replace all the seals and bearings too. What brands and kits do y’all use?
 
I used a vendor here, master install kits and r&p, 4.88 and 37’s is stock gearing, to me its not ideal. The extra rotational weight could use more gear. 35’s on 4.88 was great.

Only seals i replaced were front axle seals, as all my other stuff was newer, bearings were still in spec.

If you plan on 37’s get 5.29’s, if you are on the fence, get off the fence. One or the other, don’t be like me, thinking 35’s were enough, but i wanted 37’s. Then i got 37’s and loaded even a little sucks. Big hills suck, towing really sucks.
 
I would just do the 4.88, If you want to go 37 and the 4.88 is not enough just get the transfer case underdrive high range gears, you will want the low range too for the trail.

everyone seems to like the Nitro gears, the vendor on here will help you out. @just differentials and @cruiseroutfit can help you with all of the seals, and transfer case gears
 
I did Yukon gears when I did my swap. Also, it's worth using solid pinion spacers instead of crush sleeves. Takes a little more effort on set up, but is stronger and you can change pinion seals without affecting the gear pattern.
 
I have come to the conclusion that I am going to stay with 35s and have come to the conclusion that 4.88 are best suited for my setup. If you are on the fence about going 37s then just go with 5.29.

If I do not like the combo of 4.88 and 35s I will get the 10% underdrive from Cruiser Outfitters, if my math is correct 4.88x1.10=5.37 so ultimately I would be over the 5.29 ratio. Another option is 4.56 and the 10% underdrive that would put you right at 5.016.
 
alright well the long-term plan is run 4.88 and 35s. Thanks for all the info.
seems like everyone isn't using a master install kit. So yall would recommend getting yukon gear sets, and yes i completely agree with the solid pinion spacer, crush sleeves are a big pain since they're not re-usable. does anyone recomend a master rebuild kit? To be completly honest im not sure what the exact model or name for the front and rear axles. I'm not used to toyota axles, I've only worked with dana and a ford 8.8 in the past. I don't really want to order the wrong gear set or kit. TIA
 
OffRoadScott said:
I have come to the conclusion that I am going to stay with 35s and have come to the conclusion that 4.88 are best suited for my setup. If you are on the fence about going 37s then just go with 5.29.

If I do not like the combo of 4.88 and 35s I will get the 10% underdrive from Cruiser Outfitters, if my math is correct 4.88x1.10=5.37 so ultimately I would be over the 5.29 ratio. Another option is 4.56 and the 10% underdrive that would put you right at 5.016.
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I daily mine and usually have to take it on the hwy numerous times a week, so I really don't want the engine screaming at 70 mph. if your curious at possible ratios and just want a gear ratio calculator, grimmjeeper.com is what I use often. I haven't really considered possible underdrive ratios though.
 
HeavyWeight said:
alright well, the long-term plan is run 4.88 and 35s. Thanks for all the info.
seems like everyone isn't using a master install kit. So yall would recommend getting Yukon gear sets, and yes I completely agree with the solid pinion spacer, crush sleeves are a big pain since they're not re-usable. does anyone recommend a master rebuild kit? To be completely honest I'm not sure what the exact model or name for the front and rear axles. I'm not used to Toyota axles, I've only worked with dana and a ford 8.8 in the past. I don't really want to order the wrong gear set or kit. TIA
Click to expand...

I am located in AZ and plan on having ZUK from gearinstalls.com do the install of my gears. So I wish I could add my 2 cents on master install kits.
 
Yes, use a master install kit. You want to replace all the seal and bearings while it is apart.
And running 37’s with 4:88s is fine. Many folks have been doing it for years. If you want lower low range, regear the transfer case as well.

Loaded up my truck doesn’t have any issues with 37’s and 4:88’s. I can drive 80mph no prob. And I can go back to 35’s if I wanted. 5:29’s not so much.
 
mine is locked so the rear big ring gear bearings were reused, iirc. the front was a master kit with oem bearings.
 
Just jumping on this thread for some advice. I would like to re-gear my LC as I am currently on 35’s.
I have taken the do-it-once and do-it-right approach throughout this build and I’m asking for the feedback on the best formula for re-gearing.
Do you all recommend a master kit? I’m seeing all sorts of mod discussions around low range, transfer case, solid pinion spacer, 4.56 and 10% under drive, etc…. I am honestly looking for advice before I go down the road of a complete re-gear. I’m ready to go and have front and rear ARB lockers going on in the next 2 weeks, so I’d love some solid feedback on a re-gear so I can have them knock that out while the rig is down. Thanks guys
 
Tenn4Finn said:
Just jumping on this thread for some advice. I would like to re-gear my LC as I am currently on 35’s.
I have taken the do-it-once and do-it-right approach throughout this build and I’m asking for the feedback on the best formula for re-gearing.
Do you all recommend a master kit? I’m seeing all sorts of mod discussions around low range, transfer case, solid pinion spacer, 4.56 and 10% under drive, etc…. I am honestly looking for advice before I go down the road of a complete re-gear. I’m ready to go and have front and rear ARB lockers going on in the next 2 weeks, so I’d love some solid feedback on a re-gear so I can have them knock that out while the rig is down. Thanks guys
Click to expand...
I went with 35” tires, 4:88 gears, and Eaton e-lockers. I bought a master install kit from East Coast Gear and Supply. Love how it works for me. If I ever went to 37s, I would re-gear the transfer case or switch to an Atlas transfer case.
 
Tenn4Finn said:
Just jumping on this thread for some advice. I would like to re-gear my LC as I am currently on 35’s.
I have taken the do-it-once and do-it-right approach throughout this build and I’m asking for the feedback on the best formula for re-gearing.
Do you all recommend a master kit? I’m seeing all sorts of mod discussions around low range, transfer case, solid pinion spacer, 4.56 and 10% under drive, etc…. I am honestly looking for advice before I go down the road of a complete re-gear. I’m ready to go and have front and rear ARB lockers going on in the next 2 weeks, so I’d love some solid feedback on a re-gear so I can have them knock that out while the rig is down. Thanks guys
Click to expand...
If you order the Gears and ARB lockers from Nitro they come with the full install kit.
 
Rusty Marlin said:
If you order the Gears and ARB lockers from Nitro they come with the full install kit.
Click to expand...
Nitro is no more last I heard

Nitro gears getting sold - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/nitro-gears-getting-sold.1349247/


Like @DrDuc suggested, that's a pretty good approach. If you weren't lined up to have the ARBs put in it, I would say that you would be just fine gearing the case. Nows the time to re-gear it though, and whoever does them, should already have mentioned master install kits for it in their quote. Might as well do a knuckle rebuild while its all apart also.
 
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Might be nice to see the MY of the Cruiser. 93/94 with 442 has a lower first gear and the combo with 4:88 did real well with my 93, both with 35 for many years and now with 37's
95-97 have the 343 and a taller first gear compared to the 442. So just regearing the diffs with 4.88 may not get a good crawl, where the 5.29
might be better for 37's and Ok for 35's. Really the difference of 200 RPM(guessing did not look at chart) is not going to make the engine Scream, unless something else is wrong.
Just a thoughts, and my Opinions.
For future thought, maybe put your info on the bottom or in the request for help.

Sucks that Nitro was sold, LIke the gears, Master kits from many venders do not really match the stock bearings (if you care). I personally only install
OEM bearing any more(koyo, nachi), same with seals(too many crappy parts in the kits any more). As for Spacers. I do not believe in the solid spacers. One ends up removing the lube retainer in the High pinion, Which to me Toyota put in for a reason, and could lead to bearing failure in the front high pinion. The solid spacer use, does not allow for this fuild rentainer to stay in.
As for doing a seal replacement in the field on the go, with out messing up the back lash, Been done many times in the field on many different rigs.
Just be careful, have the axle in air to feel preload before and after, mark nut, count the rotations when backing nut off. Install to same nut rotations, Pretty simple.
As for the crush sleeve failing and creating slop. I have only see it on Crappy crush sleeves. Toyota's crush sleeves, if set up properly(this is thing is key to longevity) one should not see an issue over the live of the bearings. Except do to wear, do to water intrusion and real old fluid that has broken down.
How many stock toyota Trucks, and Cruiser do you see where the Crush sleave has failed. I have seen many Cruisers/trucks with 200K+ miles with no issues, unless the fuild has broken down, and or water intrusion has messed up the bearings.
The crush sleeves in these kits are crap, pure and simple. if you use these kits, throw it away and buy Toyota.
 
It seems like almost all the manufacturer's are producing their R&Ps in China now, except Revolution who still claim to be made in Korea (have not confirmed this personally).

As for the crush sleeve vs solid spacer debate - I can see the "they never fail anyway" argument for OEM crush sleeves, but the solid spacers tend to get added by guys who use their rigs very hard and I don't hear about lubrication-starved-bearing failures from that crowd. 🤷‍♂️ Maybe I've missed it. I suspect either setup would work fine for most people.
 
I did 4.88s, solid spacers, and ARB lockers last year. Call @cruiseroutfit Cruiser Outfitters they'll set you up with everything you need to do it right.

4.88s and 35 is a sweet setup, I pushed it and went to 37s and it's just fine. If you don't do your own install, be sure to find a competent shop to do it. Be a good idea to go through the front axle seals/knuckle seals while its apart as well. The rear is easy- just pull the axle shafts and the third member drops right out.
 
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