Random question about steering knuckles
- Thread starter Deltron
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SILVER Star
It is better than everyone else's design. The stock Jeep open knuckles break a lot more than Landcruisers. One of the popular after market solutions for them is to swap to an aftermarket version of our Birfield.
Steering knuckles... broad area imo... Funny how someone could say it was a bad design when they rarely fail? Or are you talking about birfields? In which case, I believe are better then most u-joint based axles... I say most because the ones that are better are just really big, but usually require the same amount of service.
All the Heavy-duty stuff uses kingpins. Big military stuff is closed knuckle. Lots of the domestic stuff used to be closed knuckle till they figured out a cheaper way to make them.
As per above, but here is my perspective:
The closed knuckle is better, the birfields are CV, (constant velocity) whereas U-joints are not, what does this mean? A birfield joint as it spins keeps the same speed at all angles, whereas a U-joint at an angle changes its speed believe it or not: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
The enclosed toyota knuckle has a large capacity for grease to keep wheel bearings, trunnion bearings and birfield lubricated, if you look at most 80 series crusiers, they dont need a rebuild till around 120-250,000 miles, and even so, most that Ive done have bearings in good condition, just worn in with a bit more play. Usually the issues people have are related to worn out wiper seals allowing debris or water into the knuckle, or worn out and clickity birfields due to under lubrication and hard usage.
Consider that this is a full time 4WD rig, and then compare mileage to a pick up or jeep which are part time and driven mostly without all the front end parts in motion before you compare rebuild intervals from a toyota axle to a Dana 44 etc.
Third, everything is rebuildable, you can replace the wheel bearings, which by design can only be stronger then unit bearings, I would prefer the trunnion bearings had something like the hellfire fabs adjustment for the trunnions, but they work, and trunnions can be swapped out without pressing them like kingpins. Also you can lube the hub/bearings with one fill port on the side of the housing, instead of dissasembling an dana style hub, and the unit bearings cant be greased, may be an issue if you take your truck in water or mud alot.
Finally, the third member is removable/replaceable. If you break a ring or pinion on the trail or rebuild at home, you can pull the third, you can put it in a vice to rebuild it, or just swap with another.
If you ever get to swap a R&P on a jeep, after laying on the ground under the truck playing with shims to set the differential left or right and remove each time to set the pinion shims, while trying not to drop anything in the dirt or mud, you'll appreciate how easy the toyota diff is with its adjustable pinion spacers (not sure what they're called) while its sitting in your vice.
The closed knuckle is better, the birfields are CV, (constant velocity) whereas U-joints are not, what does this mean? A birfield joint as it spins keeps the same speed at all angles, whereas a U-joint at an angle changes its speed believe it or not: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
The enclosed toyota knuckle has a large capacity for grease to keep wheel bearings, trunnion bearings and birfield lubricated, if you look at most 80 series crusiers, they dont need a rebuild till around 120-250,000 miles, and even so, most that Ive done have bearings in good condition, just worn in with a bit more play. Usually the issues people have are related to worn out wiper seals allowing debris or water into the knuckle, or worn out and clickity birfields due to under lubrication and hard usage.
Consider that this is a full time 4WD rig, and then compare mileage to a pick up or jeep which are part time and driven mostly without all the front end parts in motion before you compare rebuild intervals from a toyota axle to a Dana 44 etc.
Third, everything is rebuildable, you can replace the wheel bearings, which by design can only be stronger then unit bearings, I would prefer the trunnion bearings had something like the hellfire fabs adjustment for the trunnions, but they work, and trunnions can be swapped out without pressing them like kingpins. Also you can lube the hub/bearings with one fill port on the side of the housing, instead of dissasembling an dana style hub, and the unit bearings cant be greased, may be an issue if you take your truck in water or mud alot.
Finally, the third member is removable/replaceable. If you break a ring or pinion on the trail or rebuild at home, you can pull the third, you can put it in a vice to rebuild it, or just swap with another.
If you ever get to swap a R&P on a jeep, after laying on the ground under the truck playing with shims to set the differential left or right and remove each time to set the pinion shims, while trying not to drop anything in the dirt or mud, you'll appreciate how easy the toyota diff is with its adjustable pinion spacers (not sure what they're called) while its sitting in your vice.
What were they driving?
