Radiator to waterpump resto

[jmstu76]

@jmstu76 meant to ask, what did you use for the foam stripping on the new radiator? I have a gap up top I’d like to seal up.

I was worried someone would ask me. I found it at ACE hardware in the weatherstripping for doors and windows aisle. It was a Mackleburg Duncan product. I don't have the wrapper anymore. If I'm back at the hardware store soon, I'll snap a pic of it and post it

 

[jmstu76]

duplicate

 

[jmstu76]

@jmstu76 meant to ask, what did you use for the foam stripping on the new radiator? I have a gap up top I’d like to seal up.

I stopped in the hardware store and snapped this pic. It was $20.00 for the roll. I really like the stuff and how it filled the gaps and stuck to the new radiator well.

 

[Wayne Jacobs]

Thanks for the great thread on your project. Very nice.

 

[hygge]

@jmstu76 when you disconnected the radiator and the transmission cooler lines - which transmission fluid did you use to replace the transmission fluid that was in the radiator?

I've checked a few different threads on here. I guess ATF Dexron II is what the FSM suggests. But I've heard other things too.

Lubricant Thread

Thanks!

 

[jmstu76]

@jmstu76 when you disconnected the radiator and the transmission cooler lines - which transmission fluid did you use to replace the transmission fluid that was in the radiator?

I've checked a few different threads on here. I guess ATF Dexron II is what the FSM suggests. But I've heard other things too.

Lubricant Thread

Thanks!

I don’t want to start a lube debate. I agree, FSM calls for Dex II. I was told it wasn’t available. I went with standard Dex III. Used it to top off the trans and PS pump.

I was told they are compatable and Dex III superceded Dex II.

Hope that helps

 

[hygge]

Ha yeah, I am not one to get into debates about lubricants. More of a practical guy .

Did anyone have issues taking out the radiator?

Not sure if I am doing something wrong, but I went to take out the two upper boots that have rubber insulators tht mount the radiator to the front grill .However, after a few twists they started to spin, but not come undone.

I looked to see that on the interior , behind the AC Condenser is a bolt head. Now I am trying to sort out how to get the nuts off without having to take off the AC condenser. System was just charged last month.

Am I doing something wrong? Is there enough wiggle room to get the AC condenser off without messing too much with the AC hardlines?

 

[Skniper]

Ha yeah, I am not one to get into debates about lubricants. More of a practical guy .

Did anyone have issues taking out the radiator?

Not sure if I am doing something wrong, but I went to take out the two upper boots that have rubber insulators tht mount the radiator to the front grill .However, after a few twists they started to spin, but not come undone.

I looked to see that on the interior , behind the AC Condenser is a bolt head. Now I am trying to sort out how to get the nuts off without having to take off the AC condenser. System was just charged last month.

Am I doing something wrong? Is there enough wiggle room to get the AC condenser off without messing too much with the AC hardlines?

View attachment 1801046

The radiator bolt removal is a really bad design, but it can be done without removing the whole front end of the truck. Done it numerous times in my fj62.

If you look closely from the front you can see the edge of the radiator bolt head hiding behind the condenser, you can reach in and wedge/hold the bolt head with a long flat head screwdriver just enough to keep it from turning while you remove the square nut on the radiator side. Sometimes it's really easy, sometimes a little tedious, but it is very doable.
Reassembly and tightening done the same way.

 

[jmstu76]

The radiator bolt removal is a really bad design, but it can be done without removing the whole front end of the truck. Done it numerous times in my fj62.

If you look closely from the front you can see the edge of the radiator bolt head hiding behind the condenser, you can reach in and wedge/hold the bolt head with a long flat head screwdriver just enough to keep it from turning while you remove the square nut on the radiator side. Sometimes it's really easy, sometimes a little tedious, but it is very doable.
Reassembly and tightening done the same way.

Since this was my first time removing my radiator, I didn't know. I had always seen pics of guys with the front grill off and the center section of across the top of the radiator off. I had read alot of guys were able to swing their condensers completely out of the way. That was not my case. I did unbolt my condenser and I was able to get my 1/4 inch drive socket on the head of the upper bolt. I had no idea that there was a floating nut behind it. (I actually took out too many bolts from the front) Now I realize the radiator is only held in by the two upper through bolts and the two lower vertically oriented bolts, all using a rubber dampner.

If you can reach down between the radiator and condenser and get to that bolt, then great. I would worry about bending the fins on the condenser and new radiator with my gorilla hands.

 

[Skniper]

Looking from the front of the truck the edge of the bolt head is just visible on the outer edge of the condenser. No need to go through the fins, you will be up against the hard vertical edge of the condenser.

No need to remove anything...you can reach through the front grill assembly with a long flat head driver along the edge of condenser and wedge the radiator bolt to keep it from spinning...if that makes sense.

Just a different, less invasive option if it works for you. Those upper bolts buried behind the condenser is a bad afterthought design.

 

[hygge]

Thanks @Skniper I'll give it a go and let you know how it goes. Appreciate my new piece of Toyota knowledge.

I guess everyone can agree that this was one of many not-so-great design ideas.