radiator flush gonna kill my rad? (1 Viewer)

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Sep 27, 2016
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Location
Livingston Montana / Arlington Texas
Was thinking about getting my lj78 radiator flushed / acid-dipped before trying to make it out to the 70-series meetup in TN next week. The dude at the shop told me that sometimes radiators as old as mine aren't held together by anything but the gunk, and a good cleaning can mean certain death. Not sure how I'd replace this thing if it did go. I don't see great things from the ebay aluminum rad threads, and no idea where I'd begin to source a proper copper/brass replacement.

opinions? anecdotes? advice?

thanks in advance
 
Expensive as I just did my HZJ75 this spring.
Now I had a HZJ79 rad in my hands for testing from a local shop and with some ingenuity I believe the rad would fit and save $600.00 after purchase of the 79 rad. Of note is the length and diameter of lower outlet which in the right hands could be McGiver'd.
 
I had my radiator recored by a good shop.

If gunk is the only thing preventing leaks, that is bad.
 
If it would be that bad you would likely experience cooling issues already. Gunk is not transporting heat particularly well.
Do you have overheating issues or what is your motivation?
If a real stresstest at highway speed or up a long incline doesn't show any issue, I would not see why a just long but modest trip would bring up any.
I think the issue rather is the acid dipping.
Mostly a too aggressive acid is used (e.g. hydrochloric acid), which dissolves metal much faster than scale. Most of the gunk in a radiator is not even scale, but rust and other stuff that is hard to dissolve anyway.
I would recommend an intense flush with clear water (lots x5). Note that flakes coming loose may clogg pipes and may kill the water pump (happened to me).
Probably a coolant change is all you need?
Don't fix what's not broken or obviously about to break...
My 2€Cent.
Cheers Ralf
 
If it would be that bad you would likely experience cooling issues already. Gunk is not transporting heat particularly well.
Do you have overheating issues or what is your motivation?
If a real stresstest at highway speed or up a long incline doesn't show any issue, I would not see why a just long but modest trip would bring up any.
I think the issue rather is the acid dipping.
Mostly a too aggressive acid is used (e.g. hydrochloric acid), which dissolves metal much faster than scale. Most of the gunk in a radiator is not even scale, but rust and other stuff that is hard to dissolve anyway.
I would recommend an intense flush with clear water (lots x5). Note that flakes coming loose may clogg pipes and may kill the water pump (happened to me).
Probably a coolant change is all you need?
Don't fix what's not broken or obviously about to break...
My 2€Cent.
Cheers Ralf
Yeah, it's a very long story but having recently rebuilt the.. well just about everything, my egt's look great but my water temps are high.
 
Hello,

A re-core is better than a flush.

A simple test:
  1. Pull out the radiator cap.
  2. Dip your index finger in the coolant fluid until there is enough in your finger tip to make a drop.
  3. See if the drop has any particles inside it.
  4. Rub your index finger with your thumb. Check if it feels greasy or scratchy from suspended particles.
If you do not see particles and if rubbing does not feel greasy or scratchy, your coolant is fine, gunk is not a concern and a flush is not necessary.

Have your radiator re-cored if you feel the gunk is what it holds it together. It will extend the radiator's service life enough for your planned trip.

As Ralf / @Felde mentioned above, the chemicals in the flush can eat through whatever material is left and complicate things.

The 2L engine does not react too well to excess heat.

I would try a re-core while setting aside money for a new radiator.

OEM radiators are expensive but worth every penny.





Juan
 
Hello,

A re-core is better than a flush.

A simple test:
  1. Pull out the radiator cap.
  2. Dip your index finger in the coolant fluid until there is enough in your finger tip to make a drop.
  3. See if the drop has any particles inside it.
  4. Rub your index finger with your thumb. Check if it feels greasy or scratchy from suspended particles.
If you do not see particles and if rubbing does not feel greasy or scratchy, your coolant is fine, gunk is not a concern and a flush is not necessary.

Have your radiator re-cored if you feel the gunk is what it holds it together. It will extend the radiator's service life enough for your planned trip.

As Ralf / @Felde mentioned above, the chemicals in the flush can eat through whatever material is left and complicate things.

The 2L engine does not react too well to excess heat.

I would try a re-core while setting aside money for a new radiator.

OEM radiators are expensive but worth every penny.





Juan
where would you source a new oem rad?
 
where would you source a new oem rad?

Hello,

You can try your local Toyota dealer. You need to fill in a form that authorizes the dealer to import 70 Series parts into the US. Onur / @OGBeno has explained this procedure in a few threads.

You can also try PartSouq, Megazip or Japan4x4.







Juan
 
Hello,

You can try your local Toyota dealer. You need to fill in a form that authorizes the dealer to import 70 Series parts into the US. Onur / @OGBeno has explained this procedure in a few threads.

You can also try PartSouq, Megazip or Japan4x4.







Juan

I know this question is annoying, but could you link those threads? I've never heard of this. And I don't know what to search for to find it.
 
I know this question is annoying, but could you link those threads? I've never heard of this. And I don't know what to search for to find it.

Hello,

The Search function is your friend.

So is Google. Enter site: IH8MUD.com and Toyota US import form.





Juan
 
pulled the rad this weekend and dropped it off at a shop for a recore this morning. Thanks for all the advice (probably ain't gonna make the meetup sigh.)

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