radiator fan ?

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So i was looking to replace my radiator fan with eletric fans and was wondering how many cfm"s does factory fan pull? I wast to get something that will be more but not overkill.

:cheers:
 
I think it was photoman? who did a test and the factory fan pulls more cfms than any electric tested. I'm sure others will chime in but it seems the majority will say stay with stock fan and if needed add the JDM fan
 
I think it was photoman? who did a test and the factory fan pulls more cfms than any electric tested. I'm sure others will chime in but it seems the majority will say stay with stock fan and if needed add the JDM fan

What he said.

Keep in mind that the JDM fan (or any electric pusher fan) is primarily for AC temps, not cooling the engine. It won't hurt, but if your cooling system is even in halfway decent shape it won't help either.
 
Have you changed your fluid in the fan clutch? I installed a new radiator, a new blue hub clutch, added a pusher for the AC and then I changed the fluid to 15000 cst. All helped but the fluid change was the trick. Like Ebag333 says, the pusher fan will help with the AC temps especially in low rpm situations like drive thru's.
 
If you wanted to do your homework you could look into getting a fan from a 90-95 Ford Taurus, or the Lincoln mk.8 (3.8l only). You would need to run it off of a relay, and you'd better have an upgraded alternator for the extra draw. These fans pull 2500cfm on low and 4500cfm in high mode. I doubt you will find anything that is going to trump that. Don't know if the time and cost would be effective for you, but, its an idea.:hhmm:
 
If you wanted to do your homework you could look into getting a fan from a 90-95 Ford Taurus, or the Lincoln mk.8 (3.8l only). You would need to run it off of a relay, and you'd better have an upgraded alternator for the extra draw. These fans pull 2500cfm on low and 4500cfm in high mode. I doubt you will find anything that is going to trump that. Don't know if the time and cost would be effective for you, but, its an idea.:hhmm:

I haven't been able to find that number. A buddy that designs industrial blower systems looked at mine, did some quick math and his guess for full on flow was a big number. Also he observed that the fan design is a very powerful type, designed as much for power as flow. This is needed because the coolers are relatively thick and stacked, making for a pretty good flow restriction, so the fan needs to pull a good suction to produce flow through it.

Having the CFM number is worthless without the restriction number. It's relatively easy to blow X CFM of air around, add the restriction of a cooler it gets more difficult. Most aftermarket fans are rated ether open or with a single thin cooler, it takes much more power to suck air through the thick, flow restrictive coolers on the LC.

The main problem is the design of the coolers, the LC is designed to have a powerful belt driven fan. Most electric fan designs have thinner coolers with much more surface area (taller and/or wider) per gallon of coolant, making them much less airflow restrictive. Electric fans are good at moving air, but not very powerful at sucking it through restriction.

There is a reason why most electric fans are attached to very thin radiators. The 1FZ rad is quite thick in comparison.

I highly doubt you'd get anywhere near 2500/4500 CFM once you bolted it up in place.


All that being said, I know a couple people who run electric fans. They see no benefit from doing so, there's no HP gain (even if you "gain" HP by losing the mechanical fan, you lose that gain with the large load you put on the alt). They don't run cooler, but generally the 1FZ has no problem running cool.
 
Thanks guys!

Yeah my main concern is gettung the a/c to stay cool when im at idle in the summer time. A customer of mine was selling a dual fan set up that pulled 6000 cfms. Last summer i noticed a small warm up of the a/c waiting at red lights or drive thrus. I recharged the a/c system and very little changed. I figured with dual eletric fans pulling 6000 cfms it would be better than buying a sinle pusher fan for the condenser. i really dont expect much in the way of gas milage or hp from removing stock fan. Just want it to be cool inside the cruiser for the summer. I just got a plastic tank radiator and the core looks pretty thin. i didnt want to buy it but i got a good price and needed the cruiser runnig for the family. Im interested in the aluminum radiator but could find one. That fan i saw was pretty pricey too. I appreciate you guys chiming in.

:cheers:
 
Add a 14" pusher fan in front of the condensor, and you'll likely have no more problems with A/C. You may need some creative trimming with a 14" fan, I did, but depends on the fan.

Swapping from the clutch fan to two electrics won't help A/C any, you'll basically just be replacing the mechanical fan and hoping to get the same air movement through it. Plus it'll cost you a small fortune. Adding a pusher fan will do 1000x more for A/C temps than swapping to dual electrics.

About the only gain you'll see from electrics is you can shut them off on the freeway. But the very small MPG gain you'll see will be offset by the cost of the fans (in other words, they'll never pay for themselves).
 

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