Rack & Pinion Bushing replacment? (1 Viewer)

[NorCalDoug]

My brother-in-law's 99 Tacoma Pre-runner (2wd) may need the rack and pinionbushings replaced. There's a bit of movement when turning the steering wheel. He took it to a shop -- they quoted $300 to replace. No clicking or odd noises when steering...just some movement/play in the r&p mount location.

Not knowing much about rack and pinion steering...nor about the job to replace, I don't know if this is a fair quote or not.

My old man's a television repairman; he's got this ultimate set of tools...I'm a 1 and a half to 2 guy...how involved would this be? Something that I could do in my driveway?

any suggestions? recommendations? tips? hints?

also...is this considered a fairly routine thing to replace? if so...how often? every 15k miles? 30k? 60k?

 

[locrwln1]

Go to Wheeler's Offroad and buy their $19 poly bushing kit. While I haven't done mine yet, it's only supposed to take a few hours at most, there are only three bushings. Two that the mounting bolts go through and one that wraps around the rack on the passenger side. I think if you search TTORA.com or parkersoffroad.com, they have instructions, at least I think that is where I saw them listed. Not sure if there is any set mileage, but yeah it is pretty common for them to need replacing. I still gotta do mine...

Jack

Edit: Found the instructions:http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/kristacoma/rackbushings/rackbushings.htm

 

[toy_tek]

Good write up. I did it just a few months ago. Make sure you get the front tires off the ground, much easier to work with the rack. You will need to move it around a bit. The bushings are a PITA to get out, but the install is much easier. Good luck.

 

[NorCalDoug]

Thanks for the tips guys!

Should I lube the bushings at all or leave them "dry"?

 

[SteveH]

I did mine ('98 4Runner) and made the mistake of trying to remove the driver's side TRE (and destroyed it). So, don't disconnect the TREs, in any case - you can just hork things out of the way enough to do it.

I agree - harder to get out than to reinstall. I think I left the bushings dry or used silicone grease on them. An impact wrench will be handy - the factory certainly tightens things enough. Save the old parts - I think I had to re-use certain steel bushings.

I was impressed that the new bushings seem 'just right' - not harsh, not flabby. I was sure there would be an increased NVH transmission, but it's as smooth as ever.

It's not a multi-banana job, but if you're not used to suspension work, you may not know how to get old stuck bushings out - using sockets of the right size, and a BFH and pounding things out.

I would never pay a shop to do this - way too easy for that. My rubber bushings had 120K on them - I suspect these will last the life of the truck.

Steve

 

[PurpleFJ62]

While working on my rusty dsm I replaced the subframe bushings. The best trick I could for getting those old bushings out was heat. I guess the head softens up the rubber. Take the bolt out and give 3-6 seconds of heat from a torch and they could push out with a screwdriver. Dont melt them, it turns into a mess.

A torch is a must for suspension work, with salt here in michigan, everything is siezed.
-nate-