Quick Smog pump question

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Joined
Apr 2, 2006
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Location
Austin, Texas
Can i cap the 2 hoses coming from the smog pump w/o harming it? \

I have a desmogged engine bay and have yet to remove the smog pump simply cause it still works. I'll probably gut it or buy the idler pulley but for now, would plugging these hoses hurt the pump or does it need air flow from the air filter?
 
Plug the nipple at the filter case. Plug the inlet on the air rail. Remove the hoses. Either let the pump spin freely or remove it and get the right size belt.
 
Alkaline - What nipple are you talking about? The air rail is removed and plugged and what size belt do i use that bypasses the smog pump?

The 2 hoses i'm referring to are one that connects str8 to the air filter and the other one connects to a device on the driver's side engine wall. This device is disconnected but still in place in the engine bay.

Pleas excuse my inexperience.
 
The metal nipple on the air filter canister that the hose attaches straight to. I can't remember the part number...and I don't know if you're 3FE or 2F so it might be different anyways. But it's an Advance/Dayco belt. The last two digits are the length.
 
Sorry about that...Fj 60 2F

If i remove the hoses from the pump, doesn't that leave me with 2 openings that crap can get in and mess up the blades in the pump? I'm assuming i plug those as well.....
 
You can plug them with a filter. The pump is still trying to pump air.

It would be better to get the smog pump eliminator braket and pulley sooner than later. You could pull the blades out if the pump and let it freespin but the bearing can still lock up. When it locks up, it will take out your belt. The same belt that turns the waterpump.
 
Can i in theory just get a smaller diameter belt that just runs the waterpump to the crankshaft?

Is the eliminator bracket/pulley a simple replacement? Any modifications i need to do?
 
Yes, I'm pretty sure you can just get a belt that bypasses the pump. I let mine pump freely without fear of trash getting in there. More blow than suck on that thing, and the rad fan would keep most trash away from that little nipple.
 
So why do so many cruiser heads go for the idler pulley when a smaller belt would be much cheaper?

And do i measure the distance from center-of-pulley to center-of-pulley for correct belt length?
 
There may be a reason you can't, look and see if removing it appears to be an issue (use string if need to to measure for a new belt).
 
Why don't you just open it up and remove the vanes? That eliminates the need to plug the inlet and outlet, and lets you keep the tensioner for that circuit.
 
GLTHFJ60 - As D'Animal pointed out the bearings could still seize, no?
 

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