Questions and pictures...

[Island Moose]

Hey folks, busting my ba//s today on the BJ70, changing out every fluid, belts, valve adjustment etc. I have lots left to do tommorrow, and I have some questions.

Napa and Toyota both pull out a spin on filter when I ask for a fuel filter, all well and good, but it sure as hell doesn't look like it's going to fit my truck :

Mine also has wires coming from the bottom, so presumably the cover stays, and the filter must be immersed inside? Anyone have a NAPA part #?

Here is a mystery device between the grill and the rad...is it my water separator?

There is a grease nipple inside one of the u-joints that is impossible to get to...is there a trick or do I have to buy a special tool? I am able to get to all the rest of them.

If a u-joint is bad enouh to cause the vibration I get when decelerating and using engine braking, shouldn't it have visible play in it? All mine seem tight and solid.

Finally, here a shot of the engine, 1/2 way done cleaning her up...hard to get the soot off the paint...kerosene seems to work.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Hey folks, busting my ba//s today on the BJ70, changing out every fluid, belts, valve adjustment etc. I have lots left to do tommorrow, and I have some questions.

Napa and Toyota both pull out a spin on filter when I ask for a fuel filter, all well and good, but it sure as hell doesn't look like it's going to fit my truck :

Mine also has wires coming from the bottom, so presumably the cover stays, and the filter must be immersed inside? Anyone have a NAPA part #?

Here is a mystery device between the grill and the rad...is it my water separator?

There is a grease nipple inside one of the u-joints that is impossible to get to...is there a trick or do I have to buy a special tool? I am able to get to all the rest of them.

If a u-joint is bad enouh to cause the vibration I get when decelerating and using engine braking, shouldn't it have visible play in it? All mine seem tight and solid.

Finally, here a shot of the engine, 1/2 way done cleaning her up...hard to get the soot off the paint...kerosene seems to work.

You have a filter that works sort of as a water separator as well. The filter has a hole at BOTH ends. The older Toyota diesel pickups had a similar filter. I think you're OEM on that. Drag the parts guy out to your truck and make him see it (or call JP Toyota in Surrey and talk to Gord Cooper).

NO NO NO it's NOT the water separator, that's integral with your fuel filter, it's DEFINITELY the A/C filter/dryer. DONT MESS WITH IT.

Have you tried rotating the drive shaft? Sometimes the space opens up when you do that.

NO play in U-joints. Play is bad. Check the pinion bearings as well. They should not have any side to side play. They WILL have some rotational play

 

[Stone]

I would check your rear pinion flange for any play (just in case). I eventually checked mine after putting thousands of kms on it and the rear pinion flange sure enough was very loose. Took off the propeller shaft and it looks like a mechanic in Japan had serviced the rear third member at some point and didn't stake the nut! Luckily it didn't grenade on me.

Your fuel filter looks very different from mine. All of the fuel filters that I've seen so far are spin on ones (look like small oil filters).

 

[crushers]

that is the same one that is on the 1HZ in the mine trucks...

 

[Island Moose]

Now here's an odd twist!...this I found on the web, some guy parting out his motor. Looks like my fuel filter assembly. Seems to have two parts, the pump/filter with water sensor from bottom, and then another canister further down the line....weird!

Could this be a dual filter system?, I've read about this somewhere on an Australian site. It's a fuel/water separator with priming pump, then another conventional spin on filter?

Napa sell a part for the 2.4L Toyota diesel that looks like it might work. It's part # FIL3138

 

[bad_religion_au]

yep, my H motor runs two fuel filters... water separator then a standard one.

 

[David*BJ70]

For the BJ70 - The sidementer (separator) is in the red circle and the fuel filter in in the yellow one.

 

[Island Moose]

Now here's an odd twist!...this I found on the web, some guy parting out his motor. Looks like my fuel filter assembly. Seems to have two parts, the pump/filter with water sensor from bottom, and then another canister further down the line....weird!

Could this be a dual filter system?, I've read about this somewhere on an Australian site. It's a fuel/water separator with priming pump, then another conventional spin on filter?

Napa sell a part for the 2.4L Toyota diesel that looks like it might work. It's part # FIL3138

Alright, so a spin on and then just drain the separator? Finally this starts making sense.

 

[Behemoth60]

Holly Rookie Questions, Moose!
1. As has already been pointed out, the device with wires is a water seperator, not your fuel filter. When this fills up with too much water, the wires coming from it will turn on the 'FILTER; light on your dash.
2. The Mystery device in front of your rad, as has already been pointed out, is the condensor for your A/C. With the A/C on, you should see bubbles gurgling past the sight glass so you know if you have enough refridgerant.
3. You can buy an attachment for a grease gun that is like a long needle. This is what you need to get the tricky grease nipples on the double cardan and other places.
4. You have to take the drive shaft off to check for bad u-joints. A very small amount of play in a u-joint will cause a LOT of noise upon deceleration. It's often not possible to see this play with the drive shaft still in place. You usually only need to drop one end (I would recommend the t-case side) The one that usually goes bad is the rear shaft closest to the differential. Check both, but that's almost 90% likely to be the one. Check for play in the pinion by wiggling the flange while you're in there!

Peter Straub

 

[Island Moose]

Holly Rookie Questions, Moose!

I know... I started writing everything down last night to avoid repeating myself. I've spent hundreds of hours working on my motorbikes, but this diesel is a first for me, and I've never done much more than change oil in the past on a vehicle. Fortuneatly, the tools are interchangeable and I'm well set-up for this. The rookie questions are embarassing, but the search feature and other online FAQ's really blow.

I have downloaded every avaiable manual and nowhere is the AC evaporator listed, nor have I ever found reference to my style of fuel filter. Another example are the belts. Tightening the alternator belt is obvious, just like 10 million Chevy's, but where in the book does it describe the other two tensioners? Sure I figured it out, but Toyota's manuals are not meant for newbies.

Bear with me, I'm a quick learner, should be answering instead of asking in another few weeks.

 

[crushers]

Holly Rookie Questions, Moose!
You usually only need to drop one end (I would recommend the t-case side) The one that usually goes bad is the rear shaft closest to the differential. Check both, but that's almost 90% likely to be the one. Check for play in the pinion by wiggling the flange while you're in there!

Peter Straub

EXCEPT, the t/case end is studs so you have to remove the pinion end first...

 

[crushers]

Holly Rookie Questions, Moose!


Bear with me, I'm a quick learner, should be answering instead of asking in another few weeks.

Peter was a rookie at one time also. look how far he has come in a mere 4 years...

 

[beanz2]

Moose, your fuel filter is 23303-64010, it is a North American part. US$25 retail, less through Cruiserdan. It looks like yours is a late 1988 BJ70, basically a 1989. Is the engine block painted blue?

Dave

 

[Island Moose]

Thanks for the part #!

No, my block is unpainted. I want to deduce the VIN # at some point.

UPDATE!

I finally got to all of the zerk fittings (bought a rubber extension for the gun), and took her for a test drive....all I can say is HOLY CRAP!!

I guess the u-joints had never been greased , because as I injected them, the shaft actually moved somewhat where the splined end meets the transfer case, and it took a good 6-7 pumps before the u-joints started spewing dirty old grease. In any case, on the road and the rattle on deceleration is completely GONE! Not only that, but with all new fluid, the drivetrain noise is MUCH less.

The valves do not like play, and now that they are adjusted, I swear I've gained noticeable horsepower and acceleration! The thing purs like a kitten, shifting is smooth...AWESOME.

Funny thing engines...like to be tuned up every 15 years or so!

I finished rust-proofing the underneath and rockers, moving on the the doors and sills. The underside showed zero rust, but now she's well protected. I used a new product that not only dispells water and protects, it converts rust that may already be there. Took about 8 500mL cans.

As you can tell, I'm freakin' pleased as punch ...this thing went from being cantankerous to being a diesel sewing machine...owe it all to you guys!

Can someone tell me what the fuel tank capacity is on the BJ70 SWB?

Thanks again all, even you cranky byatches...

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Tank is 93 liters, 23.5 US gallons.
Try monitoring your fuel consumption for a while, you can do a lot with that. You should be around 25 miles to the US gallon, ~9.2 liters/100km.
when I got mine it was around 18, but running a few bottles of cleaner through it, lubing everything, changing the oil 3 times in 500 miles, and turning down the fuel changed that.
Basically, turn it down until you (sorry, your truck) does not blow any black smoke anymore. You can go further down, but then you start losing power. I am also running fuel additives, and the best I found so far is from Lucas. It comes in a 32 ounce bottle and treats 100 gallons of diesel-costs 8 US, and treats 4 tanks.
hope that helps, I am just at the beginning of understanding this truck myself. I am very envious about the ragtop though!
J

 

[Island Moose]

Tank is 93 liters, 23.5 US gallons.
Try monitoring your fuel consumption for a while, you can do a lot with that. You should be around 25 miles to the US gallon, ~9.2 liters/100km.
when I got mine it was around 18, but running a few bottles of cleaner through it, lubing everything, changing the oil 3 times in 500 miles, and turning down the fuel changed that.
Basically, turn it down until you (sorry, your truck) does not blow any black smoke anymore. You can go further down, but then you start losing power. I am also running fuel additives, and the best I found so far is from Lucas. It comes in a 32 ounce bottle and treats 100 gallons of diesel-costs 8 US, and treats 4 tanks.
hope that helps, I am just at the beginning of understanding this truck myself. I am very envious about the ragtop though!
J

Thanks! Now my truck doesn't blow any black smoke...hmmmm....losing power eh? How does one "turn up the fuel"?

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

turning the other direction
this is hard to describe, I can take pictures and email them to you with an explanation on the weekend.
PM me with your email address...
J

 

[cruiser_guy]

I guess the u-joints had never been greased , because as I injected them, the shaft actually moved somewhat where the splined end meets the transfer case, and it took a good 6-7 pumps before the u-joints started spewing dirty old grease. In any case, on the road and the rattle on deceleration is completely GONE! Not only that, but with all new fluid, the drivetrain noise is MUCH less.

When you greased the slip joint on the drive shaft DON'T keep going till the grease comes out. You'll end up pushing out the end plug that keeps road dirt off the slip joint.
It works like this, the void is full of grease so there is nowhere for the slip joint to go, you drive over a bump, the slip joint HAS TO MOVE so either the grease comes out around the slip joint (not easy because the gap is too small) or hydraulic pressure pops out the end plug.

Don't ask how I know!

 

[Behemoth60]

Peter was a rookie at one time also. look how far he has come in a mere 4 years...

I'm not that young anymore, my friend! I inherited my first Cruiser in June '95. That's nigh on 10 years of Cruisering for me. I usurped power of the RMLCA in '98, coming up on 7 years ago! 4 years ago is the last time I went on a wheeling trip. Well, 2002 actually. I've been nursing a Cruisers fleet back to health in the shop since then!

And to Moose, don't worry about being a rookie. It's frustrating, I know. I used to study the engine and chassis and body manuals like they were hyroglyphs. I litterally had them at my bedside and would study them each night. I've found that a combination of Haynes, Factory, and Max Ellory manuals each provide a slightly differenct perspective on a job, and almost enough insight to actually fill in some of the blanks. Without questions, all of those manuals assume you know all the mechanic 'tricks of the trade' like which SST can be substituted by a pair of wrenches welded together.

Peter Straub

 

[crushers]

I'm not that young anymore, my friend! I inherited my first Cruiser in June '95. That's nigh on 10 years of Cruisering for me. I usurped power of the RMLCA in '98, coming up on 7 years ago! 4 years ago is the last time I went on a wheeling trip. Well, 2002 actually. I've been nursing a Cruisers fleet back to health in the shop since then!

Peter Straub

maybe but you did not do any work on your own till 4 years ago...
i wonder if Modern Motors still remember who you are. i don't think you even shanged your own oil back then...
you have come a long way...
from one post a year to lots in the last day or so, you must be bored...
;^)