Question about power / running wire.

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Fitzgerald

Fitzgerald

Hey! Where'd the mountians go?!?!?
10 Year
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Jan 27, 2011
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I'm setting up my new to me HAM radio today and the only location that the radio will fit is in the rear of the vehicle. You'd think that a SUV the size of the 100 would have more room up front, but under the dash is all wires, vent, computers, relays,.......

Anyway, Ive got all the trim/carpet pulled and I've run most of the needed wiring. I thought while I've got the truck half pulled apart I'd run some extra power to the back. I'd like to have an "always hot" outlet back there for a fridge some day.

Here are my questions:


  1. Can I use the same gauge wire as I'm using to set up the HAM (12 gauge I believe)?
  2. DO I need to run separate sets of wires from the battery, or can I just splice it in at the rear of the truck?
  3. If I can splice, how many splices are OK before problems arise?
Thanks in advance.
 
For the radio run both +/- directly back to the battery, unless the (+) you are tapping into goes straight to battery (like your outlet). The (-) still goes back to battery. For your outlet chassis ground is ok. For splices I would say it is the quality rather than the number but minimize the number. Wire is relatively cheap so go get a full length run, check at OEM parts (in town) it is likely cheaper than the auto parts stores. If you are an electronic geek you will be in awe of that store. As for wire gauge it depends on the maximum amp draw and the distance of run. Don't forget to fuse that power line close to the battery as well. This should help http://www.bluesea.com/articles/1437
 
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Hoosier Daddy said:
Sounds like a good one for the "First World Problems" meme.
Click to expand...

I also have the light out on my passenger side heated seat switch. Heater works great but the switch is sorta hard to see at night. It a wonder I'm able to make it from day to day. ;)
 
CO_Hunter said:
For the radio run both +/- directly back to the battery, unless the (+) you are tapping into goes straight to battery (like your outlet). The (-) still goes back to battery. For your outlet chassis ground is ok. For splices I would say it is the quality rather than the number but minimize the number. Wire is relatively cheap so go get a full length run, check at OEM parts (in town) it is likely cheaper than the auto parts stores. If you are an electronic geek you will be in awe of that store. As for wire gauge it depends on the maximum amp draw and the distance of run. Don't forget to fuse that power line close to the battery as well. This should help http://www.bluesea.com/articles/1437
Click to expand...

Hmmm... Looks like the game plan should be to just wire things as I get them. Thanks for the link. I've just downloaded this chart for reference. Oh... and now I'm thinking of adding a fusebox while I'm installing the radio. :)

DC_wire_selection_chartlg.webp
 
You might want to pull a good heavy wire to the back and put in a fuse block back there so you can add other goodies down the line. You also might want to find a wire with ignition power and put a relay on the power to the radio. That way the radio turns off with the truck and won't drain your battery if you forget to turn it off. You can get basic 12V relays at radio shack, auto parts stores, etc.

Leon - why do you suggest pulling a wire from the negative terminal? A good chassis ground at the battery & the radio should be fine, not?

I've been doing some wiring today also ... pair of 12V outlets in the back for the new fridge :bounce2: One on a relay, and the other always on.
 
There are a couple of reasons but avoiding ground loop is important. From what Travis has said about all his vehicle computers probably makes this more important.
If you are careful where you chassis ground you should be ok, the the chassis does have more loss than the copper wire. Also, I figured it is just the same effort to run two wires to battery as it is one.

I have my radio powered always hot, so I don't need a key to operate, personal preference, there are +/-'s (no pun intended).

Here are a couple of links for general mobile installations.

http://www.k0bg.com/loops.html
http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html

I put in a fuse block as well for some of my stuff. What fridge did you go with Eric? You will really enjoy having that!

We currently have bad cold running through the house :bang:, hopefully I am the last to get it.

If either of you want to try the anderson power poles I have some you can try out, I really like them.
 
Yeah, I'll run a neg to the battery. I don't know the rational behind it, but everything I've read says to do it.

I need to pick up some wire, terminals, and hopefully an external speaker. Leon, the OEM you mentioned is closed Sundays. I'm thinking the car audio place down the street or maybe RadioShack. Any other ideas?
 
Interesting ... I've never heard of that. Just doing things the way I learned with my dad 30 years ago. Guess I got lucky - although I wonder if that may be part of my CB problem?

I did upgrade my battery to chassis grounds when I put in the dual battery system. According to one of the articles you linked, that should help. Maybe ill add a ground wire while things are still apart today.

Fridge is an Indel-B from truckfridge.com. I'm pretty excited about it!
 
Sorry about being late, I was on my back all day with a fever. Travis, I am guessing you found what you needed, if not OEM is open today.


Looking forward to checking out the fridge.
 
That's no fun - hope you're feeling better.

Ran a piece of 12GA from the battery ground back to my center console ground, where the radio& inverter live and then back to the new outlets in the back. Should help put things on a more even potential - I wasn't super happy with the ground back by the new outlets anyway. Got everything tested & buttoned back up.

To late I guess, but Radio Shack has some external speakers: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4371942

Is OEM Parts still in business? They had moved to that location on Palmer Park, but doesn't look like they're there any more.
 
No not too late.

I spend yesterday with a sick 2 year old. She's got croup (barking cough) and a fever.

Hope to get out after work today, get my supplies, then finish wiring up the radio tonight.

OEM might be a bit to far south for a quick run, think I'll try Radio shack.
 
OEM Parts

OEM Parts is back in their old location, on Hancock, N of Fillmore in what used to be a grocery store. As Leon said, they have a ton of stuff in there. He used to give licensed hams a 10% discount if you mention your call sign.
 
MountainRam said:
OEM Parts is back in their old location, on Hancock, N of Fillmore in what used to be a grocery store. As Leon said, they have a ton of stuff in there. He used to give licensed hams a 10% discount if you mention your call sign.
Click to expand...

Ok, cool - have to stop by again sometime. Is the pricing still based on the the item's weight in gold? :D
 
Better today, thanks. Travis, I hope your daughter is well soon, that is no fun either.

Actually, OEM parts is giving 15% discount to HAM radio operators. I just found that out about a week ago. You certainly do have to be careful on some pricing but the benefit is you have all that stuff in one place and it would be difficult to source that stuff other places. Putting your hands on stuff has its advantages as well. If you are an electronics geek, it is just a fun store to go in to and I like supporting non-box store businesses when I can.
 
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WOW. Have not been in a RadioShack for at least 10 years and... just...WOW.

Great if you want a cell phone or some fancy headphones, but not at all the RadioShack I remember as a kid. I realize that electronics might not be as "cool" as it used to be, but it was really kinda sad (ok, electronics were never cool, but you get what I'm saying).

Had 3 questions and they needed to look up every one of them on the internet. So my newbie electronics questions where being answered by the great minds behind "yahoo.answers".

But in the end, I got what I needed (I think;)), so its all good. I do believe I'll head down to OEM next time I tackle an electronics issue.
 
Yea, Radio Shack isn't what it used to be, but they typically have a few racks of the real thing in the back. And about the cheapest B&M retail place to get basic cables.

Another good place is Centennial Electronics on Bijou, active HAM guys as well. Not quite the character of dodging drip buckets at OEM though!
 
I'm out in the garage finishing welding up a gas can / water rack and am about get started finishing the radio install.

I NEED to get a garage heater. Weather channel says it feels like -2..... feels a bit cooler than that to me.
 
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