PZJ77 radiator

[rojjim]

This CSF radiator for FJ40 seems to be the same size as the radiator on my PZJ77... has anybody used this on a 70s?
http://www.csfradiators.com/csf_catalog/detail_radiator.asp?CSF_NO=2888

 

[CENTEX]

Did you ever figure out if this radiator would work on your PZJ77?

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Did you ever figure out if this radiator would work on your PZJ77?

Are you having issues sourcing a 77 Seres radiator

 

[CENTEX]

Are you having issues sourcing a 77 Seres radiator

Absolutely!

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Absolutely!

P.M. Sent
I may be able to help.

 

[44Runner]

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER HZJ70/HZJ73/HZJ75/HZJ77 1HZ-FE 4.2L DIESEL ALUMINUM RADIATOR | eBay

 

[divemedic]

I got my radiator from Rob at Odd Iron in 3 days. My build thread has details on it.

 

[divemedic]

Building the dream (PZJ77)

 

[roscoFJ73]

Did you ever figure out if this radiator would work on your PZJ77?

On the 3F engines in the 7* series, the lower radiator tank has slightly less volume compared to the 1HZ radiator, but they are the same size in regards to cores etc.
I couldnt see it being a problem with a 5 cyl , in fact the 3F radiator seems to work ok with the 1HZ.

 

[CENTEX]

I got my radiator from Rob at Odd Iron in 3 days. My build thread has details on it.

I ordered mine today - said about a week to receive in TX. What about brake hardware - any domestic equivalents here?

 

[coldtaco]

I ordered mine today - said about a week to receive in TX. What about brake hardware - any domestic equivalents here?

60 series. I installed early 90's 4runner brake calipers, these have same size 45mm piston bores so more clamping power, I had to trim the backing plate where the calipers fit since they are longer than mine. Don't know if your calipers are like mine which had one smaller piston and one larger piston.

 

[CENTEX]

I will look into that. Hope there are some domestic parts equivalencies so I'm not down for a week or 2 waiting on parts when those times come. The 24V system makes electrics a challenge. Thanks taco.

 

[coldtaco]

Yeah, the 24v system will/can be a challenge.

 

[divemedic]

I ordered mine today - said about a week to receive in TX. What about brake hardware - any domestic equivalents here?

@cruiseroutfit has OE Front brake kits, to include calipers. @wardharris is a Terrain Tamer vendor and offers uprated brake componentry. If I didn’t have everything on my shelf I would be getting new calipers from Cruiser Outfitters, new HD Terrain Tamer pads/rotors from Cruiser Brothers and ask OddIron Off Road to fabricate replacement hard/soft lines.

 

[CENTEX]

@cruiseroutfit has OE Front brake kits, to include calipers. @wardharris is a Terrain Tamer vendor and offers uprated brake componentry. If I didn’t have everything on my shelf I would be getting new calipers from Cruiser Outfitters, new HD Terrain Tamer pads/rotors from Cruiser Brothers and ask OddIron Off Road to fabricate replacement hard/soft lines.

Thank you, will look into these vendors and get stuff queued up.

 

[divemedic]

I will look into that. Hope there are some domestic parts equivalencies so I'm not down for a week or 2 waiting on parts when those times come. The 24V system makes electrics a challenge. Thanks taco.

Keep in mind, it’s not impossible to convert to a 12v system. A lot of the important aesthetic parts like the dash gauges are interchangeable with LJ7X which is 12v. That said, it’s my opinion to stay 24v when you can I think 24v is generally more robust. For example, line speed on my 24v is faster then a 12v equivalent. The motors in my 100 series windows are sloooow, but my older 70, they’re still well functioning. Relays and such can be bought from third parties like hella, winches, CB, aux lighting can be found in 24V flavor, etc... The nice thing about the PZ is critical components are mechanical. So if your window motors go out it sucks, but the truck will physically get you home barring mechanical failure. You just may not have lights, speedo, or similar...

 

[CENTEX]

Keep in mind, it’s not impossible to convert to a 12v system. A lot of the important aesthetic parts like the dash gauges are interchangeable with LJ7X which is 12v. That said, it’s my opinion to stay 24v when you can I think 24v is generally more robust. For example, line speed on my 24v is faster then a 12v equivalent. The motors in my 100 series windows are sloooow, but my older 70, they’re still well functioning. Relays and such can be bought from third parties like hella, winches, CB, aux lighting can be found in 24V flavor, etc... The nice thing about the PZ is critical components are mechanical. So if your window motors go out it sucks, but the truck will physically get you home barring mechanical failure. You just may not have lights, speedo, or similar...

Hmm, that's interesting. I'd have to swap the HVAC fan, gauge cluster, wiper motor, all lights, starter, alternator. I do like the 24V system and have a converter (someone installed a 12V radio in Japan). I've got a deuce and a half with the 24V system and I installed a converter in it as well to run accessories. I think I will stay with the 24V system as I like the dual battery setup (although wiring parallel from series would keep them). As long as I don't get too heavy into 12V accessories (i.e. amp for the audio system), I think I will be happy.

 

[divemedic]

Hmm, that's interesting. I'd have to swap the HVAC fan, gauge cluster, wiper motor, all lights, starter, alternator. I do like the 24V system and have a converter (someone installed a 12V radio in Japan). I've got a deuce and a half with the 24V system and I installed a converter in it as well to run accessories. I think I will stay with the 24V system as I like the dual battery setup (although wiring parallel from series would keep them). As long as I don't get too heavy into 12V accessories (i.e. amp for the audio system), I think I will be happy.

I agree to keep 24v. So far, the only hinderance to the 24v system I’ve found is sound. I like good audio. I’m planning for a 12v system using a redarc converter to run my sound/backup camera and USB ports.

 

[CENTEX]

I'd gamble to say most people in this forum are relatively technically minded people, and we techies like our sound. I too love good sound, but I believe the acoustical properties of my rig would be tough to overcome without going deaf. A voltage converter would work, but the sudden demands from amplifiers would "bottom out" a converter I would think - unless the redarc happens to have a significant reserve on tap. Of course, that sudden draw would be minimal if you aren't planning to run subs. I have other vehicles with good sound, but I for now just plan to run off the in deck amp to a pair of 6x9's in boxes - so the small converter installed in my rig can hopefully keep up.

What do you plan to do for your rig?

 

[Mookies]

24V scares off a lot of folks who never get time in heavy equipment or the marine world. I'm keeping my system totally load balanced with a 24V modern receiver and a JL marine amp also of the 24V variety. Poke around some marine audio links. Tons of good stuff out there.

Yes, there is some inherent weirdness but a healthy 24V system is literally twice as efficient. I love it and in this era of 'type anything into Amazon' finding accessories, relays, etc ain't that bad. To each his own.