PZJ70 Knuckle Rebuild/What Axle is This?

[SNLC]

Check your wheel bearings again in a few hundred miles. They are notorious for coming loose. Most of us who have been doing this a long time set the preload nut at 25-30ftlbs and the lock nut to 48ftlbs. I set mine that way 10,000 miles ago and just had to tighten them up again a few weeks ago.

Cheers

 

[vega01]

2 things

#1 remember my knuckle plugs are for offroad only use!

#2 I know there are a lot of vids out there but I still think Low range offroads serries is the best, everything you need to know for offroad only.

Hi,

I followed this video:



One interesting thing is that this guy uses RTV blue on the metal surfaces connected by gaskets. Do you think it makes sense? Won't it be a problem when you want to disassembly the whole knuckle the next time, because it will behave like an adhesive?

 

[sleepydad69]

Hi,

I followed this video:



One interesting thing is that this guy uses RTV blue on the metal surfaces connected by gaskets. Do you think it makes sense? Won't it be a problem when you want to disassembly the whole knuckle the next time, because it will behave like an adhesive?

if you’re going to use your truck as an off road only expedition transport? I would RTV it as well. all depends on how and where you use the truck. I think a lot of the Austrialians drive tens if not thousands of km offroad only. They talk about bush a lot

 

[vega01]

if you’re going to use your truck as an off road only expedition transport? I would RTV it as well. all depends on how and where you use the truck. I think a lot of the Austrialians drive tens if not thousands of km offroad only. They talk about bush a lot

Where I live I'd rather think about protecting against water/snow and salt during winter. But for sure not hundreds of km offroad only. Would RTV make sense in such case? And maybe it would also help make old corroded uneven surfaces connected by gaskets more smooth? What do you think?

 

[sleepydad69]

Where I live I'd rather think about protecting against water/snow and salt during winter. But for sure not hundreds of km offroad only. Would RTV make sense in such case? And maybe it would also help make old corroded uneven surfaces connected by gaskets more smooth? What do you think?

If you don't mind the extra cleanup that comes with it when service is needed, I can't see any reason not to do it. If the surfaces are clean/smooth/flat a gasket is fine, but if you have older surfaces that are far from perfect? RTV might be required in that case.


background:
I live in the what is known as the Rust Belt. They try to only apply what is needed at the right time in the right location, but as we all know NaCl eats everything. When it gets much colder and it does get much colder where I live they use Calcium chloride.

I have spent the past 30 years fighting rust and corrosive conditions. it's mostly a no win situation IMO. You can only slow it down a bit. or move to the desert and slow it way down.

 

[vega01]

If you don't mind the extra cleanup that comes with it when service is needed, I can't see any reason not to do it. If the surfaces are clean/smooth/flat a gasket is fine, but if you have older surfaces that are far from perfect? RTV might be required in that case.


background:
I live in the what is known as the Rust Belt. They try to only apply what is needed at the right time in the right location, but as we all know NaCl eats everything. When it gets much colder and it does get much colder where I live they use Calcium chloride.

I have spent the past 30 years fighting rust and corrosive conditions. it's mostly a no win situation IMO. You can only slow it down a bit. or move to the desert and slow it way down.

Thanks a lot for your answers!

 

[vega01]

Check your wheel bearings again in a few hundred miles. They are notorious for coming loose. Most of us who have been doing this a long time set the preload nut at 25-30ftlbs and the lock nut to 48ftlbs. I set mine that way 10,000 miles ago and just had to tighten them up again a few weeks ago.

Cheers

I was just replacing bearings today and setting preload according to the manual. After torquing the adjusting nut to 48 in-lb preload was within the range specified in manual (6.2 - 12.6 lb), but after torquing the lock nut to manual specified value (47 ft-lb) the preload was to high. Do I understand your comment correctly that I could safely ignore it that preload is to high according to the service manual in my case, because quite soon the bearings will become loose anyway?

 

[sleepydad69]

I was just replacing bearings today and setting preload according to the manual. After torquing the adjusting nut to 48 in-lb preload was within the range specified in manual (6.2 - 12.6 lb), but after torquing the lock nut to manual specified value (47 ft-lb) the preload was to high. Do I understand your comment correctly that I could safely ignore it that preload is to high according to the service manual in my case, because quite soon the bearings will become loose anyway?

that same guy you watched about the fronts. He also has a good one for the rears. I also do the rubber mallet deal on solid front axles as well. I don't have 30 years of experience on 70 series but quite a bit of Toyota solid front axle pickups. pretty much the same stuff.

I think a good little beating helps get everything seated into place and takes all the potential slop out. IMO this should take care of the re-check part. it's always worked for me. Just make sure you don't beat it with a brass or steel hammer. a good dead blow or rubber head is the way.

 

[vega01]

that same guy you watched about the fronts. He also has a good one for the rears. I also do the rubber mallet deal on solid front axles as well. I don't have 30 years of experience on 70 series but quite a bit of Toyota solid front axle pickups. pretty much the same stuff.

I think a good little beating helps get everything seated into place and takes all the potential slop out. IMO this should take care of the re-check part. it's always worked for me. Just make sure you don't beat it with a brass or steel hammer. a good dead blow or rubber head is the way.

I did that thing with a rubber mallet as well. I'm only worried that if the preload is too high after the lock nut has been torqued, the bearings will wear very quickly.

 

[sleepydad69]

I did that thing with a rubber mallet as well. I'm only worried that if the preload is too high after the lock not has been torqued, the bearings will wear very quickly.

As long as you did a good job packing with grease and getting everything seated it will be fine.

After your back on the road check the hubs a couple of times and make sure they are not getting hot, warm is ok. you want them to get nice and warm. Warm means the lubrication is working and they are not being overloaded torque wise.

if your bearings are lose and have play it's way worse. the forces the powertrain exterts are far beyond what you can do with your hands. so it may seem a little more than needed with your hands but once under load they need to stay snug.