PZJ70 Knuckle Rebuild/What Axle is This? (1 Viewer)

[blastronaught]

When I bought my Japanese ’91 PZJ70, I knew the tie rods would need to be changed because the boots were shot. While under it, I found that the birf seals also needed replaced. I wanted to post on here to show my process for refurbishing some of the old parts, share what parts I found and used, and lastly ask a few questions that came up during the job. Those questions are as follows:

1: I think I know the answer, but any chance this axel is still serviceable? Maybe if I press the seal in a little farther than flush? Is there a reliable source? This is the shorter axle, thankfully the long one is in great shape.

2: The brake rotors are different in that the wheel studs go THROUGH the rotor and are pressed into the hub, meaning swapping the rotors you have to also swap or replace the wheel studs. The bolts that actually directly hold the rotor and hub together only have two bolts; the 70 series images I found show a set of 6 all the way around.

3: What is this grove on the right side of the 8-bolt flange of the knuckle? It looks machined, is not threaded, and is on both sides. It was sealed with some sort of non-hardening sealer, doesn’t seem like the proper way to seal it up. What should plug this?

4: Not a fan of having the brake line connected to the brake dust cover. The caliper and dust shield being tied together just makes things difficult. This doesn’t appear to be a 70 series thing, is it another instance of 80 series stuff? Anyone else bothered by this enough to change it up?

5: In the knuckle I found a bit of black viscous grease as expected, but also found some really thick orange waxy stuff. Is this just really old grease from before moly was commonplace?

6: Given all these observations, any idea what my axle set up is and if it is stock? From what I’ve found here and elsewhere online, the parts I have are not consistent with other 70 series. The seal kit I purchased was too small, and after talking with Marlin Crawler reps it sounds like I need the 80 series seal kit (the wheel bearing kit does fit however). What gives? Also, are there torque specs summarized somewhere on here?

Thanks for the help. I'll upload some of the refinish work I did to make things pretty and try to keep rust at bay in a bit.

 

[blastronaught]

Here is a summary of the job so far. Got everything taken apart thanks to this forum and youtube. Only struggle was getting the cone washers out, but just required a bigger (soft) hammer. It appears somebody tried to undercoat the entire undercarriage with some sort of rubbery undercoat, but did a crap job and it is just not sticking anywhere. Due to that, general rusty spots here and there, and the "while I'm in there" mentality decided to make it a big project. Took everything to various wire wheels chucked up in my drill press, drill, and angle grinder to get anything loose off and work all the angles. Decided to go all out and treated everything with the POR15 3 step treatment, using the degreaser then surface prep and lastly the rust coat in gloss black. I use the engine enamel on my '79 Fiesta project, and just brushing the stuff on works great and leaves a good finish while being way easier than all the various rattle can approaches I've tried in the past. So far so good, I'm waiting to apply the second coat on the rest of the parts now and will share how it all comes out probably tomorrow. Changing out the rotors while in there too, the originals were pretty heavily grooved. Glad to see rockauto stocks these for cheap, however they were under some other year/model (unfortunately I forget which now). Got the Marlin Crawler seal and wheel bearing rebuild kit, cheapo Durago rotors and Pagid/Hella pads, and 555 tie rod/drag link ends. Oh, and picked up a Dobinson steering damper too... while I'm in there. Planning on replacing the front and rear leaf springs and dampers with Dobinson in the near future.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

This is a job that makes a difference in driving after it is complete. Ask me how I know.

Regarding your questions, please see below.

The axle is still serviceable. The parts you replaced will make a difference.

The rotor looks worn and you made the right choice by replacing it. Yes, the studs go through and it is good to replace them. The threads become sharp over the years, damaging nuts and cutting fingers in the process.

The groove is intended for the electric hub motor, which was common in JDM trucks of that era. You can put a plug in it, no worries.

The brake line setup is normal and it is better left unmolested, except for replacing worn lines/hoses.

The grease looks old, just that. Maybe the PO did not care much about front axle service.

Your front axle looks normal for a JDM truck of that age. Between 1990 and 1994 (if I remember correctly) Toyota changed the front axle and played (for lack of a better word) with the electric hub lockers: older front axles had a 9.5 in. differential.

Keep up the good work.





Juan

 

[blastronaught]

Great, thanks for the response this is very helpful. So is this updated axle the same as on the 80 series or the same year? Or not necessarily and I will just have to look closely case-by-case.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Despite sharing some parts, 80 Series axles are different from 70 Series axles.

70 Series had front axles with 9.5 in. differentials until around 1990 or 1991 if I remember correctly. Then came the update (which included electric hub actuators) and another update in 1999. The update happened at the same time the 80 Series appeared; maybe Toyota took the chance to introduce the new series and the new front axle at the same time, thus killing two birds with one stone.

Since 80 Series Land Cruisers are plenty in the US market, there is the temptation to use their parts for 70 Series trucks. It is better to stick to 70 Series parts: no adapting/fabricating, no wondering whether they will work.

Last but not least, you can source the parts either from a Toyota dealer in the US or a supplier elsewhere.





Juan

 

[AirheadNut]

I've owned 7 solid-axle Land Cruisers and still haven't had to do a knuckle rebuild, so I can't comment on a lot of your questions, but in terms of question 3: that groove is for the wires for the electric hub actuator. Yours must have had the hubs swapped to manual? Most people just fill the hole with some kind of silicone sealant when they remove the electric hubs.

The 70-series had the 9.5" front axle up through the end of 1989. This axle shares many parts with the 60-series axle. In 1990 they changed to an 8" high pinion front axle. From my understanding the differential is very similar to the 80-series, but the rest of the axle is specific to the 70's. There may be some shared parts, but on the whole you can't expect 80-series parts to fit a 70-series axle.

If you are having trouble knowing exactly what parts you need to finish your knuckle job I would recommend getting in touch with Cruiser Outfitters, they are very familiar with the 70-series and will know exactly what you need and likely have the parts in stock.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

We have all the parts you will need in stock @ Cruiser Outfitters. Drop us a line or call our sales team. Info@cruiseroutfitters.com | 801-563-1277

 

[FJ73Texas]

It is one of those "while you are in there" things but I would recommend changing out the knuckle for one without the groove if you are going to manual hubs over electric. Something I wish I knew about before I had a local friend and cruiserhead do my conversion. I did end up filling the groove with silicone and it has held up fine but not really ideal.

@sleepydad69 has made plugs for that groove that seem to work well.

Oh and another vote for @cruiseroutfit for all your knuckle needs. He took care of all the parts I needed when mine was done.

 

[sleepydad69]

It is one of those "while you are in there" things but I would recommend changing out the knuckle for one without the groove if you are going to manual hubs over electric. Something I wish I knew about before I had someone do my conversion. I did end up filling the groove with silicone and it has held up fine but not really ideal.

@sleepydad69 has made plugs for that groove that seem to work well.

Oh and another vote for @cruiseroutfit for all your knuckle needs. He took care of all the parts I needed when mine was done.

​

@blastronaught PM me if you want a set of plugs I have one set left. I used them on my knuckles and they worked perfect. My cat keeps trying to steal them so act quickly.

see here for details

1997 HZJ77HV-PEU Build

Looking forward to seeing what it looks like with the bumper style push pins. I think I probably would powdercoat with a semi-matt light color that works with the interior, if it were me.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[joekatana]

Call Cruiseroutfiitters or Valley Hybrids and order the correct parts from these guys right away . There are a lot off differences in all these toyota axles and you only want to do that job once .

 

[blastronaught]

Thanks for all the recommendations. I've actually already been in contact with cruiseroutfitters, that's where the 555 TREs came from and they were very helpful making sense out of that. If I need anything serious I'll def be reaching out to them again, but thankfully it looks like I won't have to replace any parts. The knuckles already had the electric locker removed and Aisin hubs installed by a previous owner. I reached out to sleepydad and will just use those plugs and keep the original knucks.

Received my brake rotors and they look good; they are from an '89 Land Cruiser. The pads for the '89 are too small though they have an identical look/design. Should have measured first. Looks like the pads needs to be the same that come on the '91 4runner... we'll see when those show up.

Paint is complete, may do one more coat once everything is assembled to seal up any spots that hang out past gaskets/etc. One of the studs in the knuckle came out during disassembly. Is this something that should get locktite or just snug it in place and torque the nut to spec?

 

[sleepydad69]

Thanks for all the recommendations. I've actually already been in contact with cruiseroutfitters, that's where the 555 TREs came from and they were very helpful making sense out of that. If I need anything serious I'll def be reaching out to them again, but thankfully it looks like I won't have to replace any parts. The knuckles already had the electric locker removed and Aisin hubs installed by a previous owner. I reached out to sleepydad and will just use those plugs and keep the original knucks.

Received my brake rotors and they look good; they are from an '89 Land Cruiser. The pads for the '89 are too small though they have an identical look/design. Should have measured first. Looks like the pads needs to be the same that come on the '91 4runner... we'll see when those show up.

Paint is complete, may do one more coat once everything is assembled to seal up any spots that hang out past gaskets/etc. One of the studs in the knuckle came out during disassembly. Is this something that should get locktite or just snug it in place and torque the nut to spec?

2 things

#1 remember my knuckle plugs are for offroad only use!

#2 I know there are a lot of vids out there but I still think Low range offroads serries is the best, everything you need to know for offroad only.

 

[blastronaught]

While I was waiting for my third knuckle rebuild kit trying to find the right one (went with Cruiser Outfitters, and they got it right first try), decided to try my hand at zinc electroplating. Something I always wanted to try in order to salvage original hardware. Didn't go perfect since I just have a bunch of wire wheels instead of media blaster, but I'm happy with it. Didn't do the cone washers, didn't want to go compromising them and getting them stuck in the future.

I made an idiot mistake and didn't keep track of the shims I took out. Fortunately, I kept everything while I was working on this and when I measured what I took off, they were all the same. I forget the number, but they were all consistent with the thin shim on top and bottom. The preload was pretty low though, around 5lb. I took both shims off (i.e. no shims at all) and got around 10lb. I think this is where it should be. Pretty sure someone has been in here before, as evidence by the apprentice chisel marks all over the wheel nut, so I have no confidence what I took out was actually right. I dont have the tool to center, so guess I'm just going to give it a go... not much I can adjust having no shims. Hopefully the Marlin seals make up for any sloppiness. Is it possible Toyota's quality control was better by '91? The 80 series I think were around by then, and they only need the shim on the top from what I've read.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

While I was waiting for my third knuckle rebuild kit trying to find the right one (went with Cruiser Outfitters, and they got it right first try), decided to try my hand at zinc electroplating. Something I always wanted to try in order to salvage original hardware. Didn't go perfect since I just have a bunch of wire wheels instead of media blaster, but I'm happy with it. Didn't do the cone washers, didn't want to go compromising them and getting them stuck in the future.

Thank you!

And very cool on the plating. I'd love to tinker with that.

 

[Rigster]

Looking really nice! I love how that electroplating turned out in contrast with the POR15.

I can barely remember the last time I had to do a knuckle rebuild (20+ years ago now???) but they were manual hubs and what I DO remember is laying all the parts out in order out from the knuckle and it stretched out 10 ft from either side, lol. I hate trying to use the manual when I'm all greased up to my elba's!!

Fret not on the shims, just go through the FSM procedure to adjust them correctly when you reassemble... take your time and redo if you need. It will likely be the last time you have to if you do it right the first time. Nice work!

 

[blastronaught]

I can't believe how long this taking... I pulled the engine and changed the headgasket on my Forester in two weeks of work, including getting the heads decked at a shop. Happy to report brake pads where a perfect fit, so ended up saving quite a bit of cash by just finding those compatible parts. A few questions from todays work came up:

1) I'm still confused about the hub on this. I can't find any info on a hub with only two bolts holding the brake rotor on and with the wheel studs driven through the rotor and into the hub for an interference fit. First question here are what is the torque for my two bolts; I used 51 ft-lb based on info for the typical 6 bolt pattern hubs. And about the wheel studs, will they seat all the way once the wheels are put on and torqued? They are just shy of being completely seated tight against the rotor hat, and the last thing I want is for them to find their rest of the way home when I'm going down the highway.

2) When setting the wheel bearing preload, I set it per the info provided with the kit (looks same as Toyota manual) and achieved ~5lbs. Happy with that, I then put on the star washer and the 2nd wheel nut. Torqued that to spec, and out of curiosity re-checked the preload. It is now substantially higher, and is above the spec. Is this normal, and I should just keep going? It didn't say to check after the locking nut, I guess ignorance is bliss.

3) In the aisin manual hubs, what grease should I use if any: the moly from the birf or the high temp wheel grease? I assume the wheel grease I used in the hub since it is not fully sealed off proper from the hub section?

You guys rock!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

1. Quick glance, 34 ftlbs.

I'm assuming those are aftermarket rotors? Toyota did away with many of the retaining bolts and rely just on the hub studs for some applications including yours.

2. Post a picture of the top of the front page of your instructions. Are you sure you're not missing the rest of step 18? Part d, e and f? The instructions (from FSM) definitely mention again checking the bearing preload AFTER you install the lock washer (star washer) and outer lock nut.

3. I personally use a very light (very light) layer of Lucas or Amsoil synthetic MP (multipurpose) grease. I'd use #2 wheel bearing before I used moly personally but MP is very commonly avail at a parts store from a variety of manufactures. Toyota also offers it outside the US fwiw.

 

[blastronaught]

You mean I have to go in and MANUALLY turn the page???? Thanks cruiser.

Backed off the preload nut to as low as I can without getting any play. Then torqued the lock nut and still at around 10lb. Checked my gauge with a reference weight and is good. In step e, it says to measure the frictional force of the oil seal.... is the intent to subtract out this value from the final?

 

[blastronaught]

Just to add some closure (I finished this a while ago):

Everything worked out in the end, big improvement in feel at the steering wheel. It was a bit unnerving driving back from NY after picking it up and it seemed to drift around a bit. Glad that wasn't just an old-car feeling, and it could be fixed. I went a bit beyond and tried out painting the Aisin dials with a nice hideous caution yellow engine enamel. So far it has held up pretty well, and is still intact except for 1 or 2 places at the edge of the dial giving up a flake of paint. The lettering all still is intact. After using 2-component rattle can, regular rattle can, and expensive underbody rattle can on various projects... I've come to really like this brush on POR15 engine enamel. Way easier to apply than sprays, and levels just as well once you get the hang of it in regards to drying time.

That ties this project up, see you guys on the next one.

 

[Tigris]

Just to add some closure (I finished this a while ago):

Everything worked out in the end, big improvement in feel at the steering wheel. It was a bit unnerving driving back from NY after picking it up and it seemed to drift around a bit. Glad that wasn't just an old-car feeling, and it could be fixed. I went a bit beyond and tried out painting the Aisin dials with a nice hideous caution yellow engine enamel. So far it has held up pretty well, and is still intact except for 1 or 2 places at the edge of the dial giving up a flake of paint. The lettering all still is intact. After using 2-component rattle can, regular rattle can, and expensive underbody rattle can on various projects... I've come to really like this brush on POR15 engine enamel. Way easier to apply than sprays, and levels just as well once you get the hang of it in regards to drying time.

That ties this project up, see you guys on the next one.

View attachment 3331903

View attachment 3331904

View attachment 3331905

Between the zinc plating and hub lock paint, I got a feeling that you sir are a subscriber to Geoffrey Croker


Cheers