Pulling tranny/transfer

[Island Moose]

I've started pulling the transmission and transfer case.

The manual is sketchy when it says to disconnect the transfer case lever, it's quite a system of linkages, what do I remove?

After pulling the bash plate, I noticed quite a bit of oil on the rear face of the transfer case. It's not the same black engine oil I know is coming from the main seal, rather what looks like clean gear oil. Given that it was just changed, I'm wondering if it's spillage from the shop, or another seeping seal somewhere. In any case, I cleaned everything off and I'll watch to see what might be leaking. I suppose Toyota must sell gasket kits for the transfer case?

Also, is there a technique for removing the 4WD and reverse switch plugs from the case? I don;t just want to haul on them.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The T/case will have to be reassembled. You can buy gasket kits only or a rebuild kit which includes bearings.

Tcases usally leak fom the output flange.

The switches have wires coming from them and need a SST . A real pain to do while the transmission is in especially the reverse switch.
For the reverse switch I cut a split in a lge ring spanner.You cant use an open ender as its a narrow fit
Whatever you do remember to put them in before you reinstall the gearbox/tcase,dont ask why

 

[Island Moose]

It's definitely the output flange on the transfer case that is leaking. I pulled the rear driveshaft and about 50mL of oil poured out. What is involved in stopping this leak? The service manual describes the replacment of an "oil seal", is this the culprit?

Also, how is the starter removed? Do I remove the electrical connections first, then the bolt visible from underneath? Where is the upper bolt, from the engine bay I can only see threads, the bolt must be accessed from the top of the bellhousing?

More information as to what to undo when "removing Transfer Shift Lever from Transfer" (page 188 Ellery)?

Finally, in removing the slave cylinder, one bolt came out nice and one sheared off about 1 inch out. These bolts only penetrate the bellhousing right? I can get than broken bolt out on the bench after I pull the bell?

I hate having to order parts now that the truck is up...hope to hell these oil seals are closer that the rear man seal was.

Thanks all for the continuing support.

 

[roscoFJ73]

It's definitely the output flange on the transfer case that is leaking. I pulled the rear driveshaft and about 50mL of oil poured out. What is involved in stopping this leak? The service manual describes the replacment of an "oil seal", is this the culprit?

Also, how is the starter removed? Do I remove the electrical connections first, then the bolt visible from underneath? Where is the upper bolt, from the engine bay I can only see threads, the bolt must be accessed from the top of the bellhousing?

More information as to what to undo when "removing Transfer Shift Lever from Transfer" (page 188 Ellery)?

Finally, in removing the slave cylinder, one bolt came out nice and one sheared off about 1 inch out. These bolts only penetrate the bellhousing right? I can get than broken bolt out on the bench after I pull the bell?

I hate having to order parts now that the truck is up...hope to hell these oil seals are closer that the rear man seal was.

Thanks all for the continuing support.

Yep oil seal should be the culprit. I cant remember if you can replace it by just removing the flange or if you need to unbolt the bearing retainer.
I think the former is possible.
Are you dismantling the t/case?

Starter motor has a stud and nut at the top and a bolt below(see pic)
Remove electrical 1st after disconnecting battery.

Slave cylinder bolt shoul be easy once out. I take my broken studs to a machinist when possible and they get them out nice and neat.

 

[Island Moose]

I don't plan on dissasembling the t-case, both fluid levels (t-case & trans) appear normal so no seeping between them. Low mileage on the unit, just want to stop the 2 leaks.

Thanks again!

 

[Island Moose]

Good Lord...

11 hours in, and I'm finally looking at the flywheel. I had to stop mid-way through and bolt everythign back up...my trans. jack was too tall. I cut the post down and re-welded it all together. Incredibly dirty work, the leaky main seal combined with the clutch dust makes for some interesting byproducts.

The bolts on the flywheel will not budge. I'm going to rent a much stronger impact gun tommorrow (mine is crap), and perhaps put some heat to them as well.

The final few parts should also be in tomorrow, I'm rebuilding the master cylinder (clutch) and erplacing the slave. I'm replacing the main seal, and the transfer case output oil seal, along with the clutch.

Man I am tired....

 

[wesintl]

The bolts on the flywheel will not budge. I'm going to rent a much stronger impact gun tommorrow (mine is crap), and perhaps put some heat to them as well.

I hardly ever use a impact gun. Add a breaker bar (pipe)on the 1/2 drive. Leverage is key. A block of wood or something of the sort to keep the flywheel from spinning and it should come right off.

I feel your pain. I still only have my 64 half together from doing the same reseal project.

 

[UpsideDown]

It's definitely the output flange on the transfer case that is leaking. I pulled the rear driveshaft and about 50mL of oil poured out. What is involved in stopping this leak? The service manual describes the replacment of an "oil seal", is this the culprit?

Moose;

The oil leaking at the output shaft seal is often caused by a lack of preload at the output shaft. Make sure you preload the bearings correctly upon assembly.

When installing the drive flange, put some silicone onto the splines before you slide the flange on. I usually put the silicone onto the inside splines of the flange somewhat close to the inboard edge. Once the flange slides on the shaft the silicone will seal it and no more oil will seep through for when you next take off the driveshaft.

Be absolutely sure to use assembly lube on the bearings, bushings etc... as you put things together.

Use a fresh seal between the tranny and 'case while you're in there. It's cheap insurance.

~John

 

[roscoFJ73]

The bolts on the flywheel will not budge. I'm going to rent a much stronger impact gun tommorrow (mine is crap), and perhaps put some heat to them as well.

QUOTE]

I would pass on the impat gun too.
Soak them overnight with PB blaster, fit a socket with a nice tight fit and an extension. Some tapping on the bar with a rubber mallet always does it for me

 

[Island Moose]

I put a 3 ft extension on my 24" breaker, heated the bolts, wedged the flywheel and put my entire weight (260lbs) into it....nothing.

I got so frustrated that I splurged and bought myself a real monster...

Got it really cheap ($300) at a local tool importer. I realize it's offshore, but holy crow!!


It DISPOSED of those bolts ....zing zing zing zing zing and I was done...10 seconds.

It has 800ftlbs of reverse torque and is a 3/4 drive.

The right tools are everything....

 

[crushers]

yep...

 

[Island Moose]

BTW:

* The "grease-draulic" method for getting the pilot bearing works like a charm. I used a 1/4" - drive long-socket 8mm with extension, packed it and the hole with grease (the hole is big behind the pilot bearing, expect to use a tablesppon of grease.

Slide the socket in and tap a few times with a hammer, the bearing (which is REALLY in there) starts popping out as though by magic...maybe twice or three times to re-load the grease (air bubbles) and it's out. The grease even stays in the hole instead of hitting one in the face.


* Use a ratchet strap to secure your tranny/t-case to the transmission jack, SOB is on there nice and secure, with 2x4 blocks to take up the offset betwixt t-case and trans.

* Use another ratchet strap (the good ones) to support the bellhousing while you remove the cross-member and position the jack. Run the strap over and around the frame rails on both sides, not under and around.

* Use a bungee cord attached under the knob of the transfer case lever and connected to the dash or rear-view mirror to pull the assembly up to the underside of the floor after you disconnect it from the t-case. Otherwise it wants to fall down and get in the way.

* The flywheel bolts are 19mm 12-point...make sure you have one...a strong one.

* Everything else is either 12mm, 14mm or 17mm, many bolt cannot be reached with a socket wrench so have spanners for these sizes as well.

* The electrical connctors at the trans/t-case are removed by pulling the "tongue" up as far as it will go, not by pushing down.

*When you order a rebuild kit for the clutch master cylinder with boost, spend the extra $8 and get the rubber dust boot as well.

*When cleaning the insane crud generated by motor oil and clutch dust, start with kerosene and a stiff brush, then finish with parts cleaner...otherwise too much wasted and expensive parts cleaner.

 

[wesintl]

I put a 3 ft extension on my 24" breaker, heated the bolts, wedged the flywheel and put my entire weight (260lbs) into it....nothing.

I got so frustrated that I splurged and bought myself a real monster...

WOW, I certainly understand your frustration then. Just wait for the fun part of putting the cases back in. :whoops: