Pulling the transmission/t-case

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How easy/hard is it to pull the transmission/t-case from a FJ62? I have to rebuild my t-case and i thought that since i have to rebuild that i might as well pull the whole enchilada and replace the rear main seal.

Thoughts? Or should i just leave everthing on there and rebuild the t-case from there?

Jason
 
t-case can be done on the truck but if the transmission comes out, the engine rear support no longer exists so the oil pan must be supported or lean the cylinder head against firewall (wood shimmed?).

Rent a good tranny jack, the unbalanced t-case makes life difficult as it wants to roll on jacks that have a poor platform and anchor system.

Mudrak likes to place the transmission first on rear of engine then do the t-case under the truck so I have been told.
 
well i have done a clutch job a FJ60 and pulling the tranny/t-case didn't seem that difficult, but i have never pulled a automatic tranny before.
 
When i pulled mine it took a ton of torque to bust loose the bolts holding the bellhousing to the block. I would definitly have a really long extension for your breaker bar so you can come from behind the transmission and get to the bolts that way. I couldnt slide the tranny out on the jack without lifting the truck up when it was stock, but i bet it would be a lot easier now. Just get someone to help you, its a heavy bitch and can get unruly very fast. Oh, and take off the dipstick, it wants to hang up real easy.
 
Now here's the most important part of installing an A440F into a FJ62 - Carefully inspect the auto tranny, even if it looks good, throw the pos into the $hitter and install a h55f. But if you're like me, you'll have to wait until time and funds are available.:mad:
 
The A440F setup is very heavy, almost 400 lbs with the t-case attached. Do what I did: remove the t-case while it's still under the truck, then drop the tranny. I've done this several times now, much easier.

Tips:

* Drive the truck up on a set of ramps under the front wheels.

* Disconnect the shifter linkage and electric connectors, the ATF cooler lines, pull the dipstick tube, then yank the crossmember, let the tranny droop. You won't hurt the 3FE, ignore all that crap in the FSM about supporting the back of the engine.

* Once the t-case is disassembled and out of the way, pull the bolts out of the flexplate (read the FSM), then put a jack under the tranny pan, use a loooong extension with a wobble-style impact socket to remove the bellhousing bolts. It comes right down, no input shaft stabbed into a pilot bearing.

My homemade tranny jack:

TransJack1.jpg
 
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