Pulling left only on really hard braking (1 Viewer)

clx16

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New calipers went in at that point as they were not rebuildable with the corrosion in the piston bores.
So the caliper i was lubing was a Napa Eclipse replacement i put on 2 years ago for the same reason. my old ones were so pitted in the bores i had to get all new calipers. Now i know, even rebuilt or new, i am going to pull the boots off and check them before installation. We've all seen the comments on Eclipse calipers dropping in quality, 1 out of 4 wasn't too bad, but I should have checked the work first. I rebuilt a set for my mini truck and then found out I can upgrade to bigger calipers, so I am off to the pull-a-part to get started on rebuilding another set. I don't mind it now that i know that they won't stick when i am done. Live and learn.
 
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Not necessarily.
I was having the exact same problem except pulled to the right, hard enough you had to counter steer or you'd go in the ditch.
Like the OP I changed everything, soft lines, carrier pins, pads, hats, everything but the calipers. Final fix was change the calipers. Truck brakes dead strait and true now.

In my response I was specific about the steering wheel. Of course a rear brake issue can cause pulling, but narrowing to the front is very easy when it's a front caliper issue IME. When only one front works, it doesn't just make the vehicle wander to the side but you can distinctly feel it in the steering wheel itself.
 
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In my response I was specific about the steering wheel. Of course a rear brake issue can cause pulling, but narrowing to the front is very easy when it's a front caliper issue IME. When only one front works, it doesn't just make the vehicle wander to the side but you can distinctly feel it in the steering wheel itself.
went back and re-read your post...my reading comprehension must have been off that day. Sorry.
 

clx16

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I am sure @NorCalFJ100 probably already fixed the individual issue, but just a note for when you put on new pads after they've been on a long time. You need to make sure the pistons all move in and out well, as they have been extended and had time to collect dust/dirt/rust on the cylinder walls for long periods of time. They DO NOT retract much at all when you left off the brake so if your pads wore down a lot, you could be pushing dirt and or rust in the seals when you run your clamp or whatever to push those pistons back in for the new pads. Just take a few moments and remove the boots and clean/lube them before pushing them in and working them in and out a little. If you have a vehicle that sits on grass or a place that holds lots of moisture then you really need to check them before you force them back in with dirt/rust/or whatever making them larger diameter.
 
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I just finished an overhaul of my front braking system: Front Brake Caliper Replacement - Napa Eclipse NLA? Options? (All new OEM Calipers, Pads, Rotors and Brake Lines.)

I bled the brakes very well and was getting zero bubbles in the end. I went ahead and bed my brakes in as a final step. That went well. I was not getting any pulling.

Fast forward a few days later...now I am typically cruising the cruiser everywhere. Long gradual stops. Easy acceleration. Stops wonderfully for a 6,500lb 23 year old rig. However the other day I did come to an abrupt stop. The truck pulled very hard to the left. When stopping gradually I get no pull...even somewhat hard braking I don't. But if I really mash the brake pedal it pulls very hard to the left.

Things I have tried:
  1. I have inspected fronts again. Nothing appears out of order.
  2. I made sure the slide pins had plenty of grease.
  3. I ran the truck on a dirt road and activated the ABS several times and came home to rebleed the system. RR, LR, LSPV, RF, LF. - The LR caliper didn't seem to want to push out too much fluid, but ultimately there were no bubbles. But it was noticeable the fluid did not gush out of that one.
  4. Measured temperatures of the rotors twice...
    1. Driver side front: 205 - Passenger side front: 245 / Driver side rear: 197 - Passenger side rear: 212
    2. Driver side front: 202 - Passenger side front: 240 / Driver side rear: 300 - Passenger side rear: 270
  5. Wheel bearings are all in check and also new. Trunnion bearings are new. Basically every moving part and bushing is all brand new OEM.
My truck stopped great prior to the front brake overhaul. I just had some really bizarre wear on some cheapo pads. I just wanted a nice baseline so I did the overhaul.

Thoughts?
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