Pulley Alignment...

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Joined
Apr 26, 2005
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Vergennes, VT
I pulled the water pump, PS pump, alternator, & harmonic balancer off my '77 2F for painting. I cleaned and lubed everything, aligned the key, and tapped the balancer in to get it started. It went right on with no problem. I tightened the nut up but figured I'd check the torque later when I had everything back together. Now that I've put it all back on, the crank pulley is pulled rearward relative to the other pulleys by about 1/4". Is it possible to run the crank pulley in too far, and the fix is as simple as backing it out a bit, or did I really ruin something? :frown:
 
Spacer

My 74 has a spacer fits quite nicely on the inside of the pulley, but screws up the alignment that way, Put it outside and everything is perfect. I learned this the hardway.. So does your 77 have a spacer???
 
It went right on with no problem.

That statement leads me to believe it went on too easy....

Usually it takes a fair amount of effort (BFH) ........

Did you notice anything out of the ordinary during disassembly? (wear indication marking on the surface that mates to the gear side?)

Pull it back off, post up a few pics, get a measurement from the backside to the end that contacts the innards and we'll compare...
 
Check to be sure you have the right combination of WP, WP pulley, pulley spacer, fan.

It's easy to mix these parts up, if there are other pulleys and pumps laying around the shop, and it will bolt right back together but the WP pulley will not be in the right place.

Post pics of the balancer and the other accessories.
 
Grant, it took some effort to get the hb back on but no more than I expected. Once I got it started and the key lined up I just used the nut to pull it into place. There's 1" between the timing cover and the metal on the back of the pulley (not the rubber core). I've never had one of these apart before so it was all out of the ordinary, but nothing caught my eye as being a problem. Near as I can tell the wear marks on the hub and the timing cover all line back up now.

Jim, I was careful not to have any other parts lying around. As I unbolted all the goodies I kept them organized on the bench or in a box. The only new part that's been added to the mix is the fan clutch. That's not to say I didn't mix something up, but I don't know what it could be. The alt and wp pulleys appear to be in alignment - when I string a belt on there it doesn't seem to be on an angle, but the hb is approx 1/4" behind the wp, measuring from the block out to the center of the pulley.

The PS pump is from a '79 and will represent it's own alignment project. The PO welded up a double row pully and ran a plow pump off of that, with his own booty fabbed bracket. I'll deal with that later, after I get the parts that are "supposed' to be there lined up... The pulleys look horribly off in the pics, don't let that throw you. Thank you all for your help.
Pulleys 001.jpg
Pulleys 002.jpg
Pulleys 006.jpg
 
If you used the crank pulley nut to pull the crank pulley tight, and torqued it down all nice, I'd say you did that right. And everything else should be made to line up to the crank pulley. The crank pulley is the most important and everything else is adjustable.
You say you added a fan clutch? That's a different pulley isn't it? Did you change the whole waterpump or just the waterpump pulley? You can slide that waterpump pulley back & forth on the waterpump shaft about a 1/4 inch...

EDIT: I just went out and put a tape measure between the timing cover and the crank pulley, I get about the same 1" your pic shows....
 
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That's what I was thinking, that the waterpumps may be different heights. Also may want to see if there's not a spacer under the waterpump pulley.
 
Nope, same water pump and pulley as before. The fan clutch mounts forward of the pulley. I had to use some washers between the clutch and the pulley to snug it, but that doesn't change the relationship of the pulley to the wp. No spacer under the pulley either... Maybe it's just the wrong wp??
 
I should add that this motor came out of a donor rig, so since I haven't run it I have no experience with it. I was told it was being used as a plow rig though and since everything was covered with crud from the leaking plow pump it sure seems like it all worked, at least in some fashion...
 
Hmmm...
I was pretty sure that the fan clutch WP pulley had a different bolt pattern than the direct drive fan...
Can you press that WP pulley in towards the block any? Might take care care of some of the mis-alignment....



Nope, same water pump and pulley as before. The fan clutch mounts forward of the pulley. I had to use some washers between the clutch and the pulley to snug it, but that doesn't change the relationship of the pulley to the wp. No spacer under the pulley either... Maybe it's just the wrong wp??
 
I replaced the broken fan clutch that was on there, I didn't add a FC where there wasn't one already. Sorry for the confusion. I don't know about pressing the pully further on there. I could try it. The number on the end of the wp shaft is WPB16124. I tried to Google this but didn't get any hits.
 
I just measured a 78 2F sitting here. Same 1" from back lip of shell to frt of timing cover. IMHO, the crank pulley is OK.

The picture shows a weird PS mounting, so just forget about that for now.

The alternator pulley is wrong. It sticks too far forward. The back of the pulley should be against the alt fan. That's a pulley off a corolla or something. It's not uncommon to find a wrong pulley on a 2F. They are usually installed by sweatshop rebuilders for sale at Vatozone. Get a correct used one off Mud, or a new one is still readily available from Toyota.

It looks like the correct WP, pulley and FC.
Measure from the rear of the WP pulley to the front of the block. Mine shows 3-1/4".

Don't put washers between pulley and FC. The FC needs to be fully onto the pilot shaft to run true.
Get the right length studs and nuts. Still available from Toyota.

The t-stat outlet is a '79 oil cooler part. It has an unneeded oil cooler hose fitting and an unneeded vac switch. It's also backwards, should point to the manifold side of engine.
 
Greg- I may have one if you do not. Yours if you want it. Let me know.
 
Whew! mystery solved...........
 
OK. I have the correct alt pulley right in stock so I'm set there. The cavity on the back of my FC is too shallow to accept the pilot shaft (hence the washers), so apparently the FC I picked up on ebay is incorrect. Oh, well. I get 3 1/2" from the block to the back of the WP pulley. There appears to be room to slide the wp pulley aft to make up the 1/4" I need. If I can't budge it without destroying things I'll work on getting another one.

Thank you very much to everybody who chimed in here.
 

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