PTO Winch Shear Pin

[landyNZ]

Every PTO winch I have ever bought has always been dry. The seals go the oil leaks out and people don't do their maintenance.

I think most "pto pins are rubbish, put a bolt in it" stories have come from people who either have unrealistic expectations or don't look after the winch. Just cause it's driven by a hundred horsepower engine doesn't make it a hundred horsepower winch...
I have two spare pins in my truck, have yet to use them and the photos above are pretty typical of what I use my vehicle for. Easier to fix a pin on the trail and use a snatch block than it is to fix a bent pto shaft.

 

[peteinjp]

Just an (unfortunate) update regarding the strength of the 70 series shear pin. I think my buddy may have bumped the PTO lever into gear at some point when we were hitting the snow hard on the trail. Result below.The winch hook was attached to the recovery hook on the frame which to my surprise also bent. The bumper also bent a little as well as the fairlead. This is the stock 8mm cable The shear pin however did not shear. I don't think I need anything stronger than this pin...... Head the words of Mark W. Do not leave the drum engaged when not in use. I will also add a spacer under the brake pad to increase friction on the drum as Glenn did. Pete

 

[Mark W]

I had pretty much the same thing happen to me with a stock shear pin.
I have had several winches with broken cases from this sort of thing happening to them. All with stock pins.

The stresses seen when you make this mistake do not seem to correlate to normal winch use.


Mark...

 

[peteinjp]

Mark- what have you used for a pin- pros and cons....


Pete

 

[shelfboy1]

using your tires along with the winch will help reduce the load on the winch .my brother in law used my 40 once and ran over a tire that engaged the winch and he kept driving .when the hook caught all it did was break the winch
line and that was with a cap screw for a pin a lucky day for us both .

 

[Mark W]

Mark- what have you used for a pin- pros and cons....

Pete

I'm just using some mild steel dowel cut into sections the right length. I keep several extras in a 35mm film canister in the glove box. It's a little larger than the OEM pin. 5/16 comes to mind but I'd have to double check.

Never sheared one or broken anything else in the winch.

Yet.

Mark...

 

[cruiserdan]

I believe my BJ74 has a 5mm pin. Based on the part number it may even be 4mm. 90255-04002. The 04002 makes me think 4mm.
4mm =.15748
5mm =.19689 in
5/16 =.3125 in

3/16 maybe? .1875 in

 

[Mark W]

.....

 

[cruiserdan]

Dots?

 

[peteinjp]

90240-05004 is 5mm. The earlier pin is 4.3mm

Pete

 

[Mark W]

The dots were because my phone app does not allow me to do a straight deletion of a post. And there is a 5 character minimum too. So that was my edit solution to delete what I stated to say.

I finally remembered to make the time to check the size of one of my spare pins.

5/16 it is. I was using 1/4 inch for a while. Don't remember why I went larger. I never broke a 1/4 pin. It may have simply been because the holes on the yoke I was using were worn and sloppy.

Mark...

 

[Gun Runner 5]

On an outboard boat motor the shear pin is designed to prevent major damage ..... I believe the same theory applies here so I would be reluctant to greatly increase the shear pin diameter.
My .02

 

[cruiserdan]

Installing a "bigger fuse" could be counter productive.

 

[Mark W]

Meh. He asked I answered. Works for me. Might not for others

Mark...

 

[Sooke]

No problem. Let us know when/if it shears....

Pete

Well it finally happened. I sheared my upgraded pin yesterday while trying to free myself from axle deep snow. I fortunately carry a spare and the proper sized punch. I was able to dig out the front and crawl underneath and replace the sheared pin.

 

[peteinjp]

Did you get any pics? I just use my winch to pull myself out of the ditch in the snow today as well. I did use a snatch block because my rope is get a little beat up. I've already snapped it once and I still have a snapped the pin.

However I have a new rope coming in and it's a 3/8" synthetic rope with the breaking strength in the 20,000 pound range so we'll see what happens with that. I to carry a punch and I handful of spare pins.

Based on your recent experience any advice in terms of what you might do different to make changing the pin easier?

Pete

 

[Sooke]

Did you get any pics? I just use my winch to pull myself out of the ditch in the snow today as well. I did use a snatch block because my rope is get a little beat up. I've already snapped it once and I still have a snapped the pin.

However I have a new rope coming in and it's a 3/8" synthetic rope with the breaking strength in the 20,000 pound range so we'll see what happens with that. I to carry a punch and I handful of spare pins.

Based on your recent experience any advice in terms of what you might do different to make changing the pin easier?

Pete

Hi Pete,

I was lucky I had enough room to put in a new pin and fortunate that I always carry spares with me. I did not get any pictures unfortunately. Next time I would use my snatch block. I had already used my winch 4 or 5 times already that day. I didn't think that I was putting much force on the system but I was wrong. I should have taken the time to use the snatch block.

My cable is getting a bit beat up and I too am looking to put a 3/8" synthetic line on my winch. What length did you order? From reading posts here on mud, I think I will be able to put a 100' length on my drum. I have a PTO winch on my truck as well. Powerful unit. Do you put your transfer case in gear and use the wheels to help the winch? I have always just put my transfer in neutral and let the winch do the pulling.

I couldn't free myself and had to walk 6km in the snow with my 3yr old son to get a bulldozer to come and pull me out. It was quite the adventure and I learned some valuable lessons. I will definitely carry enough snatch blocks and extra line to be able to winch myself backwards.

Cody

 

[peteinjp]

I find especially in snow that leaving the transfer case in neutral is more effective. The winch can pull the truck up on top of the snow and with the wheels turning it just sinks back down getting the axles hung up again.

As for my 3/8" line I went with a line from JM rigging. Jim is a great guy to deal with in my line be right here within the next few days. The line is heat set which means it's been stretched down a size so more fits on the drum and in addition it has an abrasion resistant weave on the exterior. It's more expensive than the standard three eights line of Amsteel blue but I figured with the extra coating protecting it from mud and dirt as well as abrasion in the long run I'll get more use out of this line. This is a line similar to master pull xd but at a better price.

I went with 100 feet and bought 100 foot extension of less expensive 3/8" line. I having less rope on the drum will keep me from having as many sideloading problems on a short pull when my anchor is not right in front of the truck.

In terms of pulling backwards with the winch I've basically given up on that idea. It requires three pullies minimum as well as three perfectly placed anchors which is pretty unlikely unless you're in the middle of a tree farm.

I've considering going with a lever chain hoist as it's more compact than a highlift and can pull further. I haven't seen anybody using them for recovery but it's a 3 ton unit with the safety factor of 4/1.

Pete

 

[Sooke]

I find especially in snow that leaving the transfer case in neutral is more effective. The winch can pull the truck up on top of the snow and with the wheels turning it just sinks back down getting the axles hung up again.

As for my 3/8" line I went with a line from JM rigging. Jim is a great guy to deal with in my line be right here within the next few days. The line is heat set which means it's been stretched down a size so more fits on the drum and in addition it has an abrasion resistant weave on the exterior. It's more expensive than the standard three eights line of Amsteel blue but I figured with the extra coating protecting it from mud and dirt as well as abrasion in the long run I'll get more use out of this line. This is a line similar to master pull xd but at a better price.

I went with 100 feet and bought 100 foot extension of less expensive 3/8" line. I having less rope on the drum will keep me from having as many sideloading problems on a short pull when my anchor is not right in front of the truck.

In terms of pulling backwards with the winch I've basically given up on that idea. It requires three pullies minimum as well as three perfectly placed anchors which is pretty unlikely unless you're in the middle of a tree farm.

I've considering going with a lever chain hoist as it's more compact than a highlift and can pull further. I haven't seen anybody using them for recovery but it's a 3 ton unit with the safety factor of 4/1.

View attachment 1379172

Pete

Pete,

Sounds like you have some fantastic line coming your way soon. I'll probably go the way of am steel blue right now. I'll put a protective nylon sheath over the first 10ft or so.

I use the chain hoists in the fire service fairly regularly for vehicle extrication/rescue/recovery. They are a powerful tool when used in conjunction with a mechanical advantage system. The extra line you have along with a couple snatch blocks and you should be able to pull yourself out of most any situation. I like your idea.

Cody

 

[peteinjp]

[QUOTE="Sooke, post: 10766853, member: 84720.

I use the chain hoists in the fire service fairly regularly for vehicle extrication/rescue/recovery.

Cody[/QUOTE]

Do you have a recommendation in terms of the size of the chain hoist? I was going to get a 3 ton but if I could get away with a smaller one I'd rather save space in the truck.

Pete