PTO Winch Shear Pin

[omni]

Determined that the shear pin from my rig was missing so I just ordered a few. There is a whole on each end. Do you just put small cotter pins in them for retention or do use some other type of clip/pin?

Thx

 

[Pearly]

Small cotter pins are ok - anything to stop them falling out.

Where did you order from? Toyota?

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Both the OEM and upgraded OEM shear pin will break under light load. It will break under winch tension requiring the PTO drive shaft to be removed (not fun) to allow you to twist the worm gear shaft to release the load.
I have replace my shearpin with a 6 mm capscrew - no problems.

 

[shelfboy1]

i did the cap screw thing back in 71 and have had no winch problems and use them hard.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

D Do you just put small cotter pins in them for retention or do use some other type of clip/pin?

Usually safety wired, loop through both holes, meet in the middle and twist.

 

[Living in the Past]

It will break under winch tension requiring the PTO drive shaft to be removed (not fun) to allow you to twist the worm gear shaft to release the load.[\QUOTE]


Using a new shear pin to drive the broken one out works. A long nail works also. Not the easiest but works. If you still have the original tool kit that in you mid seventies FJ40 you can use the hammer that came in it.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

please post the details of your self-recovery predicament when the shear-pin breaks under load

 

[peteinjp]

Glenn- you stated that it will break is this first hand experience? If so do tell. I have the 70 series upgraded pin and have not had any problems yet. But the hardest pull I have done was just to pull the truck over a pile of snow as high as the fenders. Up and over.

Pete

 

[peteinjp]

here is an example of a busted stock pin:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/439883-need-pto-winch-shear-pin-u-joint-part-numbers.html

 

[Sooke]

PTO shear pin Toyota part # 90240-05004

I was able to order PTO shear pin Toyota part# 90240-05004 from Metro Lexus Toyota in Victoria, BC for $1.65 each.

They have a cap on one end and a hole for a cotter pin in the other. The one I sheared in my JDM 1988 HJ61 has holes for cotter pins on each end with no cap.

I hope these work. It is raining cats and dogs and I don't feel like crawling under the truck just yet...

 

[peteinjp]

Look at page 3 of the above post. You will need to drill out your shear pin hole to fit it.

Pete

 

[Sooke]

Finished removing my old sheared PTO pin out of my JDM 1988 HJ61and it looks just like the picture of the one Omni posted at beginning of this thread. The toyota part number I listed in my first post will not fit, it is just a bit too big.

Thanks Pete, just a quick question, if I drill it out will it affect the strength of the u joint attachment? doesn't look to be very much extra metal around shear pin hole.

 

[peteinjp]

I thought the same thing but after reading so many posts about people drilling it out I thought it must be ok. SO far so good for me.

Pete

 

[Sooke]

Pete,
Thanks for the reply, that is all I needed to hear. I will get underneath and drill it out tomorrow.

cheers,
Cody

 

[Big Ed]

I have replace my shearpin with a 6 mm capscrew - no problems.

This is a catastrophe waiting to happen. If you ever forget to disengage the PTO or have something you're pulling get bound up it will break the winch housing. $$$

 

[Mark W]

.....

 

[Sooke]

Drilled it out to 5.2mm and the 5mm pin fits like a glove.

Thanks again Pete

 

[peteinjp]

No problem. Let us know when/if it shears....

Pete

 

[scrapdaddy]

I'm going to attempt to braze a 1/4 " plate to the back of the pto yoke, then drill out the shear pin hole. On mine, there is not enough metal to drill and still remain intact. Brazing, if done right, should be the best way to weld the plate on. Let me know what you think.

 

[peteinjp]

Just thought I'd add a bit to this thread concerning the strength of the 70 series pin. I have had a couple of good pulls on it now without using a pulley and it has held up just fine so far. The last pull I thought I should probably use the pulley but I decided to see if it would shear without it.

The right side was sunk in pretty deep with both axles semi sunk into the more claylike mud in the center or the track. There was a hidden root that I got hung up on which increased the power needed to get out as well. It was sunk up to the step on the right side with the bumper also down in the muck as well. Basically I had to drag it out with the bulk of the weight on the axles as the wheels. On the rt side were in bottomless mud.

I pulled it out in 1st gear and just took my time as I did not have far to go. The pin did not shear. Well see what happens this winter...