I got my winch and pto drive shaft out. I want to rebuild the winch and the pto unit.
What parts are likely to need replacing?
What parts are likely to need replacing?
Pto winch rehab
- Thread starter jblueridge
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I just had to replace bearings. Bj73 slow build will show you a box with the part number for current bearings for the worm gear. The local bearing shop measured up and was able to replace he seal as well. That's the extent of my rebuild for it.
Seals for the winch head and PTO unit (gaskets too) are available from Toyota. The spiders for the u-joints in the drive shafts are available. The pillow blocks in the drive shaft might need to be replaced but I do not know if they are available.
Good Luck
Peter
Good Luck
Peter
The spiders for the shaft are spendy ... Close to $60 each ....
I enjoyed breaking the pto down, it was fun, sandblasted and painted, new bearings, gasket and seals my pillow blocks were shot as well, so I replace those bearings which were fully sealed, bonus as the seals for pillow blocks not easy to track down.
- Thread starter
- #6
Yes the pillow blocks may be okay but the seals and bearings in them are not.
Good idea to use fully sealed bearings.
NGray I saw your pics and that's what made me create this thread.
I have not yet removed the pto unit; will the truck be driveable with that removed?
Good idea to use fully sealed bearings.
NGray I saw your pics and that's what made me create this thread.
I have not yet removed the pto unit; will the truck be driveable with that removed?
Edit. Sorry, misunderstood.
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Depends upon what you are describing. If you mean the PTO gearbox on the side of the transfer case, unless you have a cover plate to install, the truck will not be drivable with the PTO gear box removed.
- Thread starter
- #9
Yes, I meant the PTO gearbox itself.
I could maybe fab a cover plate but I'd rather just work fast and put it all back together.
That's why I'm looking to get the repair parts on hand.
I could maybe fab a cover plate but I'd rather just work fast and put it all back together.
That's why I'm looking to get the repair parts on hand.
If you can find another split case, rob the cover off of it ... The transfer cases without PTO gearboxes have the plate in place of the gearbox.
I would be surprised if the pto gear drive would require to be rebuilt, is it not engaging ? what's the reason / symptom to open the pto gear drive ?? Considering the amount of engagement time a pto gear drive, compared to the main gearbox itself, as when it's not engaged it just sits idle,
You could pull it out to have a closer look and to double check, but I would only focus your rebuild on the pillow block and winch itself
You could pull it out to have a closer look and to double check, but I would only focus your rebuild on the pillow block and winch itself
- Thread starter
- #12
I have no indications that the pto gear box is faulty. The winch itself looks grimy and there is not full engagement of the clutch.
The drive shaft is rusty and the pillow blocks and bearings don't look good at all.
The pto gearbox linkage that runs up into the cab makes a fast rattle sound, a buzzing, at highway speeds. I'm not sure how to squelch that. The linkage seems to have a lot of slop in it.
The drive shaft is rusty and the pillow blocks and bearings don't look good at all.
The pto gearbox linkage that runs up into the cab makes a fast rattle sound, a buzzing, at highway speeds. I'm not sure how to squelch that. The linkage seems to have a lot of slop in it.
Pull that linkage out, pull it apart, clean it and put it back together, once you do that you will see where it can vibrate and rattle, may just need a couple of washers on the pivot where lever is attached to gearbox mount,
Get under there once you have put linkages back in, and engage and disengage the pto gear drive, by hand, and then just slowly work through the linkages to ensure the slop or rattle is removed but is still fully engaging and releasing
Get under there once you have put linkages back in, and engage and disengage the pto gear drive, by hand, and then just slowly work through the linkages to ensure the slop or rattle is removed but is still fully engaging and releasing
As I read in another forum, make sure you use gl4 only gear oil and not gl5. Gl5 is bad for the bronze gears. If you don't drill it out, an Allen wrench seems to be a great solution. We had to take bolt cutters to cut them to length and applied quite a bit of pressure in doing so.