Project Chewie (1 Viewer)

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During the lift install we replaced a bad left half shaft. The right was seeping, but apparently couldn't take the increased angle and let loose a giant mess the tire shop was probably not happy about working around. I don't know how many more miles I could have gotten out of it, bit it was making a mess out of my mall crawler, so it had to get replaced tonight. @tornadoalleycruiser stopped by and did a parts run for me (he passed on putting kids to bed) and helped me out immensely. Thanks brother.

We pried the axle out yesterday. Today tried a different method of wrapping something around the back of the CV and popping it out with a hammer. Poly rope had too much give, harbor freight ratchet strap broke, but a small chain worked like a charm. Need to buy some amsteel to make a lighter weight version.

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And with the new shoes. 275/70R17 BFG AT KO2s. Rub just a tiny bit somewhere but only at full lock.
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@half k cruiser I'd say it rides about like stock xreas, which was a little stiff. Minimal body roll, a little rough. But part of that I think is the load range E tires, and also the fact that I have no additional weight on it yet. I would expect it to ride a little nicer with some weight. All in all, for a lifted truck, it's doable for me as a DD. Not sure my wife would want to DD it everyday after she's gotten accustomed to her Sequoia with air suspension.

Holler if you get into KC, you can drive it and see for yourself.
 
During the lift install we replaced a bad left half shaft. The right was seeping, but apparently couldn't take the increased angle and let loose a giant mess the tire shop was probably not happy about working around. I don't know how many more miles I could have gotten out of it, bit it was making a mess out of my mall crawler, so it had to get replaced tonight. @tornadoalleycruiser stopped by and did a parts run for me (he passed on putting kids to bed) and helped me out immensely. Thanks brother.

We pried the axle out yesterday. Today tried a different method of wrapping something around the back of the CV and popping it out with a hammer. Poly rope had too much give, harbor freight ratchet strap broke, but a small chain worked like a charm. Need to buy some amsteel to make a lighter weight version.

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And with the new shoes. 275/70R17 BFG AT KO2s. Rub just a tiny bit somewhere but only at full lock.
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Nice! Alignment shop could not get rid of the rubbing?
 
I've heard of people doing this. I assume this is done by just adjusting caster until it's moved away from the contact area? Doesn't this compromise the correct alignment?

Nice! Alignment shop could not get rid of the rubbing?
 
Not sure of the net-net of that post, but I can tell you that I ask for the shop to push caster out to 4 degrees positive and then let the camber/toe adjustment bring it back in as needed.

Typically end up around 3.5 degree positive caster.

Tundra was a little less at around 3.

Great to see the expedition build, Colin!!
 
I have had the 4xInnovations and the CBI rear bumpers on the 3rd Gens. Prefer the 4XInnovations. Not sure they make a 4th Gen rear, though. Have also heard the CBI rear on the 4th gen is better than the 3rd Gen.

4x4 Labs is another option.
 
Leaning toward the 4x4 Labs. It's a really nice bumper. I like the looks of the sides of the CBI, but hate how they have the receiver hitch slapped underneath. Luke's bumper is very well thought out.

For now, the 275 fit in the stock location with a pinky width to spare, so that's my solution for the time being. Those rear bumpers are pricey! Probably do the kit, I just don't have time to fab one from scratch right now.

I have had the 4xInnovations and the CBI rear bumpers on the 3rd Gens. Prefer the 4XInnovations. Not sure they make a 4th Gen rear, though. Have also heard the CBI rear on the 4th gen is better than the 3rd Gen.

4x4 Labs is another option.
 
For now, the 275 fit in the stock location with a pinky width to spare, so that's my solution for the time being. . .

You did well getting those in there! I know how hard it can be to fit 33's on a 4th Gen! Seems like the perfect size to me :)

The Tundra has a little more room. I am running 285/70/R17s on it, but I can probably get away with 34's next time.
 
Made some progress on storage. I haven't decided exactly on what options I want in a drawer system, but I do know it will take time and money to do it right, both of which are limited. So in the meantime, I decided to utilize the factory shelf system. The issue is the factory shelf, by locking into the wheel wells, can only support 66 lbs. So I built a center brace using 2x4s, all thread, and wing nuts that I can adjust to tension on the center of the shelf. This should at the very least double the weight capacity. This gives me space beneath for two totes, and space above for two 20 gallon totes and a cooler. This will get me by for this season. Still need to pull it out and finish it.

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I got both of my circuit breakers, so I got the aux panel mounted under the hood and started building cables to wire it up.

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Got a few more things completed.

Auxiliary fuse panel mounted under the drivers seat. This is fed by one of the 100 amp circuit breakers under the hood via 2 awg wire, always hot. It's mounted far enough back so that I can access it to replace fuses by scooting the seat all the way forward, but recessed far enough that when the seat is back in a normal position, it can't be seen/stepped on/kicked.

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Also got on lower link skids to reinforce the thin section of frame hanging down holding the front of the lower link bar to the rear axle. Thanks to @1MAC for the parts delivery. First side was tricky figuring out how to get it all lined up. A ratchet strap helped pull it into alignment toward the front of the truck, while a floor jack helped align it up/down. First side took me about 30 minutes to do, but once I figured out the trick, the second side was less than half that. Welded the front side of the skids to the frame to make sure they stay in place and don't rotate and bang around. These things are beefy, I think it lowered my center of gravity! ;)

Went from this:
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To this:
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And while I was under there, I went ahead and finished pulling off all the XREAS lines. We ran out of time when we installed the lift, so it has just been hanging out on the frame since then.
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You know u can always use the welder here if u want
 
I wanted to upgrade the head unit. While the stock JBL Synthesis system sounded fine for my deaf ears, it did lack some of the nicer creature comforts like Bluetooth.

I wanted a system that could:
  1. Stream music and audiobooks from my phone via Bluetooth
  2. Display navigation via Google maps or Waze
  3. Display offline navigation and gpx files, such as Backcountry Navigator (Android app)
While there are a ton of options that can meet 1 and maybe even 2, very few can accomplish 3. I kept getting pushed toward an Android based head unit to satisfy all of these requirements. The reviews for these devices range from completely unusable to the best thing since sliced bread. So I bit the bullet and bought the latest and greatest offering from Joying (from what I can tell, all these units are the same, just with different company names)

My initial impressions are that this head unit is a compromise. Does it produce adequate audio, yes. Is it great audio, no. It's not blazing fast, but definitely usable. I use my phone as a WiFi hotspot and connect the head unit to it which allows me to get traffic updates in Maps/Waze, as well as stream Pandora off the head unit instead of my phone. All in all I'm really happy with it though.

A few things that really annoy me:

  1. I can't get all my steering wheel controls to work with it. Volume and source button work (you can map them to whatever you want), but the resistance values for the track up/down buttons are so close to the volume buttons, I can't assign them to anything
  2. It wont' recognize my BT OBD reader for Torque. It requires a reader that is named OBDII, so it looks like i'll have to order theirs if I want that data run through the head unit and not my phone
  3. 4GB file size limit - the system can only handle files that are 4GB or less, which means I can't put all my Backcountry maps for one trip into one file like I can on my phones, so I have to split it up between different areas and map types. Not the end of the world, just an annoyance.
I also had to run a new wiring harness from the head unit to the cargo area to bypass the stock amp. With the JBL, all of the speakers connect to the amp, and a data signal from the head unit to the amp controls all the fade/balance/etc. into the amp, so there are no speaker hookups behind the head unit like you would find in most vehicles. A Metra 70-8117 harness worked perfect for this. I replaced the amp with a 200w Boss amp off Amazon. A cheapie, but it has more than enough bass from the stock sub for the Red Dirt Country and classic rock I listen to. Added in a backup camera mounted to the bottom side of the spoiler. I need to angle the camera down a little because the bumper is just out of view, so I'll have to make a wedge to accomplish that.

Joying head unit:
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Yes, my commute sucks. @tornadoalleycruiser
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New amp being wired up, and Metra bypass harness:
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Don't think you can count on Joying for tech support, at least not in a language that's easy to interpret:
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Also installed a cargo net for overhead storage. I used a high speed thread injection machine to make a custom size net that is bigger than the one from Raingler. It uses slide buckles to clip in for quick and easy removal and tensioning. Bought a storage net for between the seats also ($2 from China, took forever to get here). I'm trying to find every available spot for storage to be able to fit a family of 4 and all our gear to camp.

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I did the mod to allow the fog lights to run independtly of the headlights, which consisted of nothing more than bending up the prong of the fog light relay coil that is fed from the headlight relay and powering it from the seat heater fuse location (ignition source) via an add a circuit. Idea stolen from internet.
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Also pictures of the led lights I put under the hood to make night trail repairs easier (I hope I never need them for that reason). They are grounded through the hood pin switch for the remote start so they come on automatically when the hood is opened.
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Polished headlights (driver done in this pic). They weren't terrible and Plastx did the trick.
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