Preserving Miss Kitty, circa 1964 (3 Viewers)

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Keith, I’m questioning the Jan. 1964 build date, thinking that it would probably have been much later in ‘64. The leading ‘4’ in your VIN indicates a ‘64 build, but Toyota typically didn’t start the next model year production until August or so. So for it to have ‘1965’ stamped on the data plate would tend to support a build of August or later.

As a cross reference, I’ve pinned my rig’s build date to sometime between mid-Sept and mid-Oct 1963, based on a date code on the fuel filter of 1 Sept 63, and knowing that it was first purchased here in Oregon in Nov 63. Mine is #19054, it seems unlikely that Toyota could have cranked out 4000 of these trucks in that short of a time span.

I’d be curious to know some of the date codes on your rig, if the original parts are still on it. The easiest to find without disassembly are the carb date and the casting date of the engine block.

The carb date code is stamped on the back side of the carb just above the throttle linkage, will start with either a 3 or more likely a 4 followed by a letter and a one or two digit number.

The block casting date is on the left side just behind the alternator.
 
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As a cross reference, I’ve pinned my rig’s build date to sometime between mid-Sept and mid-Oct 1964, based on a date code on the fuel filter of 1 Sept 64, and knowing that it was first purchased here in Oregon in Nov 64.

If yours was built sometime between Sept. and Oct. 1964 as you say, then what is the significance of the "3" preceding FJ40 in your vehicle identification number?

By your logic Toyota manufactured a 1963 model in 1964.

While there are some uncertainties with these early cruisers, determining what year-model they are when Toyota stamped the year-model right into the vehicle identification number should not be one of them.
 
The carb is long gone, PO put the Holley on it. Plan to replace it period correct when possible. So here is how I deduce my build date. The 40 Registry in the 40 Tech section:
40 Series Registry
At the end of the registry, after the 1974's, There is a greenish table posted by @RockyLC who got it from SOR. My Frame VIN #, 4-FJ40-23103 falls after the January column #, and before the February entry.
I don't know if the table entries record the first or last production #, but suspect it is the first. Here is a pic of my engine #, which matches the plate on the firewall. :)
I'll look for other casting #'s to see if I the original parts are possibly still there, but haven't yet.
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The windshield vent.

This part seems to rust on almost everyone. I took mine apart, having already ordered what I thought was the rubber seal from Racer City. They were very nice when I discovered I wasn't even close. Got to pay more attention.

I discoverer a PO had concerns over stiffening the back part and fabricated a perfectly fitting aluminium tube to fit in one of the grooves. Peeling back the other side I found out where such a custom aluminium shaft came from.
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Surprise!
 
Want to repaint this part to stabilize it, get it looking better, and hopefully still have it fit the rest of the rigs finish.
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If yours was built sometime between Sept. and Oct. 1964 as you say, then what is the significance of the "3" preceding FJ40 in your vehicle identification number?
Brain fade and typos. All those spots I posted ‘64’ should have said ‘63’. I’ll edit and correct my post.
 
Keith, I’m questioning the Jan. 1964 build date, thinking that it would probably have been much later in ‘64. The leading ‘4’ in your VIN indicates a ‘64 build, but Toyota typically didn’t start the next model year production until August or so. So for it to have ‘1965’ stamped on the data plate would tend to support a build of August or later.

.
it could quite easily be an early 64 as back then, vehicles were titled (and brass tagged in the case of the mid to late 60s rigs) when they were sold to dealerships.

an example of this is my annie, is vin 2fj4016523 is titled as a 1963 and was sold from a colorado dealership in 62. another member here owns the rig three digits later in vin (16526). his is titled as a 1962 and was sold in the east somewhere in 1962.
 
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Casting block date of Jan.13, 1964?
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it could quite easily be an early 64 as back then, vehicles were titled (and brass tagged in the case of the mid to late 60s rigs) when they were sold to dealerships.

an example of this is my annie, is vin 2fj4016523 is titled as a 1963 and was sold from a colorado dealership in 62. another member here owns the rig three digits later in vin (16526). his is titled as a 1962 and was sold in the east somewhere in 1962.
But note that the VIN data plate pictured on the first page of this thread is stamped ‘1965’. Same as my 40 which has a VIN starting with 3, but the plate is stamped 1964. It’s easier to tell that mine is truly a ‘64 model year as there are plenty of differences between those two years. A bit tougher to tell between ‘64 and ‘65. But Toyota apparently considered Miss Kitty to be a ‘65 model year (assuming the data plate was stamped in Japan, as I have always thought).
 
Casting block date of Jan.13, 1964?
Yup. That’s a full year after mine was cast. Which means your engine was built much later than January. Cast blocks can’t be machined for some time while the casting “ages” or “cures”. Sometimes months. As I understand it, I don’t think they could machine and assemble that motor so soon after casting that the truck could have a January build date. In my truck’s case, the lag between block casting and final build was something like 9 months.
 
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Under the dash..

Some nice gauges,
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but they must make way for... Lord Vader.
 
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In the center of the picture, peeking out from behind the oil pressure gage, a bit of red dash. It is the underdash bracket that holds the Vader light for this year. It's where the light was before those optional new fangled heaters came along that the soft people wanted.
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Waiting patiently on the mailman to bring this..
 
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Looks like Miss Kitty’s PO used better quality gauges than the fine JC Whitney Specials that we’re in my truck...
 
Ok, hard bargain, I will trade them for your PTO. :rolleyes:
 
Do you know of a non-altering, hidable way to have gauges? Hide 'em in the glove box?
 
Sure, you could hide them in the glove box. But if they aren’t out where they can be seen and monitored while driving, I don’t see the point. Which is why I pitched mine. I’ll live with idiot lights. Especially if the choice is gauges or my PTO...
 
Sure, you could hide them in the glove box. But if they aren’t out where they can be seen and monitored while driving, I don’t see the point. Which is why I pitched mine. I’ll live with idiot lights. Especially if the choice is gauges or my PTO...
Ok, I'll box them up and bring 'em down.
:steer:
 

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