Pre Lube Pump Plubing

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Dec 24, 2011
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I am getting ready to hook up an electric oil pump to pre-lube my 3B motor prior to starting. I am wondering were the best place to tie into the oil system to get oil pressure to all the galleys/bearings. I currently don't have a turbo.
Thanks
Dan
 
the easy that come to my mind it's the oil press sender block outlet .. dunno if there is any ideas against this ..
 
All the pressure vessel systems I have seen tee into the oil pressure sender.

This system has a little more to it than those pressure vessel prelube systems: Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum - View Single Post - Td42t vnt. But you can use it to actually circulate oil well before start-up and after shut down. It draws from the oil sump and is tied into the oil system through a custom made adapter on the oil cooler. The pressure vessel systems only releases a big squirt of oil just prior to start-up. I am sure they are better than dry starting.
 
PUT a real oil filter ON !!

W917 MANN


MAJOR Gearheads , Don't Squawk till YOU measure TIME / RPM/ TEMP / VISCOSITY ,all the same is time to = pressure.
 
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I have an older "oregon Research" electric gear oil pump with an oil filter bracket to put inline to fillter the oil prior to pumping it into the enigne. The pump will pull from the oil pan. I don't know were would be the best place to tee into the oil system of the enigne. I wouldn't want to just pump oil from the oil pan back into the oil pan. Does anybody have an oil diagram of the 3b motor pre-1984?

The set up also comes with a timer that starts the motor for 20seconds when the ignition is switched on and 5 minutes after the engine is shut off, to lube the turbo during spool down. Thansk for the help
Dan
 
Sorry, I can't help you on where to tie in on a 3B beyond teeing into the sender. However, can you give me a link to Oregon Research Technology or companies selling their product? I found lots of older posts about people using their Turbo Saver but no links to anyone selling their products. :beer:
 
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I got the kit off of Ebay (USA). "Oregon Research" doesn't make the kits or pump any more, so you have to get them second hand. The ebay seller has a bunch that he is selling. The kit is complete. I haven't hooked it up yet so I don't know any more about it. If it works it is a great deal at 125+shipping. It is a 12volt setup. I already have a 24volt relay running off of the ignition switch for a 12volt system installed, so you would need something like that for the electrical hook up, if you are running a 24volt cruiser.

I will update with how the unit performs once I have it hooked up.
Dan
 
I took a look at the motor and it doesnt say the current rating. There is a fuseable link in the wiring that is 30 amps. I can't tell what material the impeller is made from and the manual doesn't say. I looked into the pump section and it looks like plastic but it is hard to tell. The pump will operator during cool down of the engine so I would assume it is rated for oil temperatures at normal engine temperature.
 
Now I feel like I need to get one! Especially since my cam bearings and cam were redone, hmm
Always something else to buy :( but in the end this would pay for itself with longer engine and turbo life? Need to justify to myself :)
 
I do believe that your cam lobes are the very last place in your engine to recieve oil, as in from the rocker arm run down. Your cam does get oil indirectly from splash off of the crankshaft above 1500rpm or around there. I did alot of reading when I replaced my cam and did the break in. My cam guy was adimant about not letting the engine idle any longer then it took to get a good pressure reading on my guaage. As soon as I had that he said 2000rpm and never let it below 1800 for an hour. Ever since I talked with him I have wanted a pre lube system. I cant imagine letting my wife start my truck in -20 degree weather. I love that woman, but I cringe everytime cus its a nascar start with about a 3 second space between engine turnover and boltng down the driveway as fast as she can... its like watching one of my children get beaten
 
I cant imagine letting my wife start my truck in -20 degree weather. I love that woman, but I cringe everytime cus its a nascar start with about a 3 second space between engine turnover and boltng down the driveway as fast as she can..

My Toyota Tundra (5.7 gas) revs to 2000rpm immediately when cold....until it reaches operating temp...this is to warm the cats up as fast as possible to reduice emissions ! I run 0-20 toyota synthetic, temp here can get as low as -45*c - makes no difference to start revs. Toyota claim they have never had any trouble with the engine caused by high rpm starts....I keep bugging my service manager about it!
 
I final got the pre-lube system installed. It works good. I took out one of the oil plugs towards the back of the engine to feed into the block. I was able to confirm that the cam bearings do get lubed using this port. I ran the pump with the front cover off and could see oil squirt out of the front cam bearing.

I didn't use the fittings that came with the kit, instead I went to AN10-AN6 fittings with pipe thread adaptors for the pump and oil filter housing. I also sorced a different check valve that fit with the AN fittings.

I opend up the pump and found that the gear is a metal gear not plastic. with cold oil the pump deliverd 60psi in about 5 seconds and held that untill it shut down at 20seconds. After the engine was up to operating temp and shut down the pressure hot was about 12psi for the 5 minutes that it ran with the engine off.

The only issue I have is that, if you have to run the glow plugs for more then 20 seconds, the pump will shut off before you start the motor. If you then cycle the key, the controller runs the cool down 5 minute cycle, even when you go back to the on position. The pump will run for 5 minutes, so if you start the engine both the enigne oil pump will be running and the electric pump. The pump is also pretty loud.

Overall I am happy with it.
 
Some Pic of the install
Photo05121447.webp
Photo06021950_2.webp
 
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