Post Sniper Install Questions

[SSICKLE1]

So, got it all done with some extra unneeded parts and a bunch I didn't know I needed. Turned out pretty well.

I have one real issue and one thing I don't like. The picture has an adapter for my factory air cleaner, it's a pricey little hobby so I'd like it to work. Unfortunately the air path is either not strong enough or there's too much turbulence get get enough air at WOT with a paper six type filter. No filter, no problem. Does anybody have a suggestion for for a good filter that isn'y going to kill my air flow?

the second issue is the accelerator pedal, now utilizing a cable instead of linkage has moved farther forward meaning away from the firewall and the other pedals. This is pretty uncomfortable, makes the throttle a little too jumpy and require the seat to be moved too far back for easy reach of the clutch and brake. I'm guessing I have to take it out, heat it up and bend it. Curious to know what others have done.

Thanks! Prior threads were really helpful.

 

[Skreddy]

As far as the filter, is the restriction when you’re driving or just idling? Any vacuum leaks? (What’s your map reading at idle?)

For the touchy throttle, I run the extension lever and find it much more better.

https://a.co/d/9psCPqN

 

[SSICKLE1]

its only noticeable at wide open throttle. It's like when I had a carb with the choke on, you had to push it in under acceleration until it warmed up then no choke. Now even when warm it acts like that. No filter no issue.

No sure what the mapping is.

Thanks for the link I'll try it.

 

[John Smith]

Definitely get the extension lever for the throttle. Without that, I hated the much too fast response. IMHO they should include that bracket with all Snipers. My pedal position did not move, but I have a 40. I have not heard of the stock filter restricting air flow when running that adapter. I run one of the tiny round filters because I balked at the price of that adapter.

 

[SSICKLE1]

I get the lever for the throttle response, so I'll have to shorten the cable. How do I get the pedal back closer to the firewall?

 

[Skreddy]

May need to bend the top of the pedal arm to get it where you want. My sniper is on an early 40 series so was already cable.

For the map: it’d be your MAP reading at idle, the manifold absolute pressure. If it is low, it can help tell if you’ve got a vacuum leak but not sure a vac leak is a problem with what you’re describing.

What displacement did you enter when you first set up the sniper? How many miles/ has it done much self learning yet? I feel the stock sniper runs rich so I reduced my displacement by about 20% and that was what I started with. I didn’t have some of the rich problems I’ve read about and felt like it completed its learning really quickly.

 

[sims]

So, got it all done with some extra unneeded parts and a bunch I didn't know I needed. Turned out pretty well.

I have one real issue and one thing I don't like. The picture has an adapter for my factory air cleaner, it's a pricey little hobby so I'd like it to work. Unfortunately the air path is either not strong enough or there's too much turbulence get get enough air at WOT with a paper six type filter. No filter, no problem. Does anybody have a suggestion for for a good filter that isn'y going to kill my air flow?

the second issue is the accelerator pedal, now utilizing a cable instead of linkage has moved farther forward meaning away from the firewall and the other pedals. This is pretty uncomfortable, makes the throttle a little too jumpy and require the seat to be moved too far back for easy reach of the clutch and brake. I'm guessing I have to take it out, heat it up and bend it. Curious to know what others have done.

Thanks! Prior threads were really helpful.

View attachment 3621613

I also have "hat" like yours on my Sniper. I also have a little breakup/stumble at WOT. I never thought the airflow through the stock air cleaner as the cause. Good catch. I have monitored my A/F through the stumble and didn't see an issue. I'm anxious to check MAP and see what's up. I'm very confused as to why the air cleaner is choking off the WOT. Following this thread.

 

[John Smith]

May need to bend the top of the pedal arm to get it where you want. My sniper is on an early 40 series so was already cable.

For the map: it’d be your MAP reading at idle, the manifold absolute pressure. If it is low, it can help tell if you’ve got a vacuum leak but not sure a vac leak is a problem with what you’re describing.

What displacement did you enter when you first set up the sniper? How many miles/ has it done much self learning yet? I feel the stock sniper runs rich so I reduced my displacement by about 20% and that was what I started with. I didn’t have some of the rich problems I’ve read about and felt like it completed its learning really quickly.

I'm curious what number you used for displacement if you don't mind sharing?

 

[Skreddy]

I'm curious what number you used for displacement if you don't mind sharing?

I don’t remember exactly but I want to say 200-210 cubic inch? I had read that advice on some mustang forums after the Holley tech told me the mustang 6 cylinder was kind of what Holley had in mind with the sniper 2300. No idea if there’s any truth to that but 6 cylinder mustang guys were finding better AFR’s, less starting problems and quicker learning when entering smaller displacements for the 6 cyls. Thinking was that Holley programs them rich because too rich is less likely to burn up an engine than too lean.

 

[SSICKLE1]

I don’t remember exactly but I want to say 200-210 cubic inch? I had read that advice on some mustang forums after the Holley tech told me the mustang 6 cylinder was kind of what Holley had in mind with the sniper 2300. No idea if there’s any truth to that but 6 cylinder mustang guys were finding better AFR’s, less starting problems and quicker learning when entering smaller displacements for the 6 cyls. Thinking was that Holley programs them rich because too rich is less likely to burn up an engine than too lean.

I just ran miner a7 220, it was as 268. It's less rich but didn't solve the problem. Starts and runs great just doesn't like WOT, I think it's the air cleaner adapter. I put it back on with no filter and it's unable to run smooth with the pedal down. Airfilter assembly removed, there is no problem.

So I have a nice paperweight I guess.

 

[SSICKLE1]

what are others using for an air cleaner on fj60...trying not to waste too much more money.

 

[DrRock]

what are others using for an air cleaner on fj60...trying not to waste too much more money.

Just a thought, did you check the whole length of the intake hose to the outside and confirm no critters have built a nest in there? I've seen this happen which could cause the issue you describe.

Cheers, James

 

[SteveH]

@SSICKLE1 - running an AFI TBI setup, but I made a totally custom home made 6" steel pipe adapter for my FJ40 and I used the OEM air cleaner. I have never sensed any restriction on the intake, as far as performance. I did have to make a completely custom gas pedal to get good angles and full throttle opening.

Now that you mention your issues, I will put on my small aftermarket air filter (cheesy chrome hot rod thing) and see if it drives any differently. I get a little bogging off the line that has always bugged me. Maybe it's the air filter? Who knows.

 

[SSICKLE1]

Just a thought, did you check the whole length of the intake hose to the outside and confirm no critters have built a nest in there? I've seen this happen which could cause the issue you describe.

Cheers, James

no hose, just the metal. You can see the choke point and all the other bad air angles.

 

[SSICKLE1]

I talked to Holley. The had me reset WOT AFR, recommended I change the plugs because of how rich it's been running. If it continue start reading the plugs and adjusting AFR WOT as needed. There is also some data mapping that can be done.

Maybe I'll get that fancy air cleaner adapter to work after all.