Poor mans diesel conversion SWB style

[dohcdelsol93]

My AA adapter kit, rare isuzu to ford factory adapter and a bundle of other parts came in this week.

The knuckles to my new disk brake axle are rebuilt



I've got my Ford TOD (or RTS or T176 or top loader) rebuilt, only had to tear it down and reassemble it 3 times before i got it right.

My adapter it now installed on my 4bd2t along with a clutch kit from an 86 F150 11" clutch.

Ive drilled/tapped my ports for a boost gauge and EGT gauge

I've gotten my adapters for aftermarket oil psi and water temp gauges installed as well.

I'll be fitting aftermarket gauges into the stock gauge cluster to try to keep a clean OEM look inside.

The clutch will require either an internal or pull type slave cylinder. I chose a Howe 829 external slave cylinder. Only later model ford 5 speeds used internal slaves.

The bump for the starter is right in the way for a standard push style slave but the Howe is less than 50 bucks and a ford clutch kit is right at 100, an aftermarket wilwood clutch master cylinder is also about 60 bucks so they are cheap compared to most LC parts that probably already need replaced on many of our rigs out there.

If this engine were going into an fj60 you would have more room between the frame rails than i have and could probably use the push type slave. I also have a PTO driven winch to worry about fitting between the drivers side of the frame and motor.

I have the last of my parts to rebuild my 3 speed transfercase, hopefully my AA adapter plate will be machined to fit my larger RTS bearing this week so i can go ahead and install the case on the engine/tranny.

I still lack cutting the bump off of the oil pan, i should be able to get that done this week.

I also need to finish making my oil filter relocation kit. I've got the filter side about done but the engine side is only cut to fit.

I've also gotta make an adapter to fit my GM brake master to LC fire wall adapter.

Oh and some snow wheeling



burnt 3 tanks of gas in about 3 days in the snow....oh how i miss diesel.

More pics will come when i get my replacement phone.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

pyro meter installed, bung for boost gauge installed, bungs for oil and water gauges installed

transmission rebuilt and installed

bracket for pull slave cylinder built and installed





hidden aftermarket gauges

 

[dohcdelsol93]

oil filter relocation kit installed and/or built





lines for the kit randomly thrown on the table....the shop is a mess. I need this swap out of here so i can clean up. I have a 1977 KZ400 that is next in line along with a new keel for the west wind 21



another pic of the rebuilt disk brake axle with all fj60 outers.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

oil pan is currently under knife.

I've seen on 4btswaps where a 4bt has been installed in 2wd and 4wd vehicles (including cars) with zero lift.

I'm heavily modifying my oil pan to make this work.

I'm cutting everything away except for the area where the pick up is and the dip stick.

Keep in mind the 4bd2t pan is huge compared to the 4bd1t oil pan (4bd1t pan also needs slight trimming if you are under 6" of lift and even then if your bump stops are not dropped it will still need trimming) I was able to do it last time with 3.5-4" of total lift but the engine was pretty far back in the engine bay.

I'll be doing all the welding with a store bought lincoln 110 flux core welder. Not a task for the faint of heart.

You need something to use as a heat soak (i use flattened copper tubing as it forms really easily) and patience. Just for good measure i'll be coating the pan with POR 15 to insure against weeping.

all you can do on this is put it on the lowest possible setting and make tiny tacks. Do each side and then eventually fill in the dots with more dots. Then clean up with a grinder taking care not to over heat the pan and possibly warp it. I don't know if that is an issue on oil pans but it is on body panels!

continue to fill in the dotted path until you can fill full of water (or gas once cool) and let it sit over night to be sure there are no leaks.

 

[doug720]

I like the oil filter relocation set up, though it looks strangely familiar...

Plus, it's cold outside, well at least where you are I'm told, so motorycles and boats can wait!

Looking good

Doug

 

[dohcdelsol93]

It's weird weather here, will be 28 degrees one day and 70 the next. I was riding two weeks ago about 3 days in a row. Now it's been two weeks since i took my CB550 out. I'd like the YZ done before good weather hits.

Swaps take months to piece together and swap (and some pocket change) to build. Cafe racer builds you see results much more quickly at a much lower budget.

And you may have inspired my oil filter relocation design a bit

The price of the fittings/hoses are not for the faint of heart. I was able to build all the aluminum blocks out of scrap metal that was free and it still went over budget.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

front axle swap complete. I now have front disks!

The 1984 Chevy c10 1 inch master cylinder fit well with the help of a 2" hole saw and a 3/8 drill bit.

stopping power is much better than 4 drums. I still need to readjust my rear wheel cylinders as its been about 6 months since doing so so braking power will probably increase a bit.

There is much more pedal resistance than what I had with the widow maker stock single resev. master cylinder

For those interested I used the stock fj40 brake push rod cut down a tad to fit.

Keep in mind that the chevy master cylinder piston must return back to the opening at rest (closest to the pedal) position in order to brake properly.

Keep in mind that there is a support bracket in the inner side (under dash) that will mount about where you will be putting the hole for your inner master cylinder mounting bolt.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

edit- this is still manual brakes, the 1" GM master is for the c10 with manual brakes (disks/drums)

I'm running a 10lbs residual valve to the rear, adjustable prop valve, no residual valve needed for the front.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Its in. it idles. I should get to drive it tomorrow. First stop exhaust shop.

Took for days to install thanks to unforseen snags.

Pics to come



Sadly the front mount intercooler did not fit.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

That's four days

 

[dohcdelsol93]

here are a few more pics

This thing has some power. With the sound damping (roll of aluminum flashing/sticky on the other side) this thing is actually more quiet than with the SBC at running rpms, at idle with the doors off and soft top its louder, cant keep out the diesel sound.

full 2.5 exhaust crush bend. max egt's thus far with probe mounted post turbo 1200 egts, didn't seem to climb past that.


Not a set up for the faint of heart, the gearing is kinda spread so it took a change of driving habits to keep the diesel happy. When she's happy she has more pick up than the SBC ever had.

She does great at 65mph. I don't have exact mpgs thus far but i'm in the 25+ mpg range.











I was unable to mount the FMIC due to lack of engine bay space

 

[the gimpey one]

Man that sucker is crammed in there.

 

[watrob]

Do you need a heat shield for the turbo as it pretty close to the plastic brake reservoir?

 

[dohcdelsol93]

so far no, everything is cool to the touch even after an hour of running in 70+ deg temps.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

was a tighter fit an anticipated, took 4 long 12 hour days to get her in.

Would have gone much smoother if that AA RTS to LC 10 spline 3 speed output shaft would have been a direct fit it would have been much easier.

The main shaft had to be spaced properly in order to keep 4th gear from jumping out...and to keep 1st gear from locking down on output shaft.

Once problem was found it was easy to repair.