Pretty sure he means the whole system. I dunno about 15 minutes, but it's not that big of a job compared to, say, a timing belt. I didn't take the dash apart either. Just some quality time in the Lotus Position (upside down under the dash.) Biggest time sink is bleeding the brakes, although getting the 3 line couplings off was a PITA. A bit rusty on mine. I just unplugged the charcoal canister electrical connections, undid THE ONE BOLT holding it on, pulled up and moved it aside. The bottom hose came off, so pay attention to that.
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (4 Viewers)
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Sadly for me, the lotus position is no longer in my repertoire and I laden with taking out the dash, so much in agreement with those brake lines being a PITA. I have noticed most of the time one or both sides of the wiring to the motor is muddled up somehow.
I don't mind doing a small job but I don't know if I trust myself to do something as important as brakes. Might call around and get some quotes.
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- #984
there is this channel on YT called "It just rolled in" or something like that. Basically mechanics take videos of disaster vehicles and post them up. Quite interesting, really. There is a large number of godawful damage labelled like "Customer did his brakes himself recently"...
(but, of course, those are not Mudders...!)
(but, of course, those are not Mudders...!)
Yeah I don't think I'll be attempting a brake job, I'll stick to stripping my oil plug for now. Darn soft aluminum.
Unless there's a very detailed guide I don't know if I should try it, just because of the consequences of failure. Sure, I look under the hood and think, "oh, it's all just bolts and tubes and wires, not too complicated," but putting stuff back together right and not breaking things is the hard part, and I'd like to still have brakes at the end of the day. I managed to strip both my transmission drain bolt and one of the fuel rails, so I don't know if I want to strip something on my brakes, too.
Drill off head of screw only, like I did here:
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
Grease is for things that need to move... Bolts need to move...LOL The grease you see me using today is Red-N-Tacky. I use marine grease (MG) also, but the MG stuff I've been getting lately has been to thin. This Red is designed to hold in place without breaking down, doesn't wash out and has...
forum.ih8mud.com
I installed the whole system. Booster motor was included
if that’s the next thing I have to deal with I’m going to loose it.
I have a 2006, North East truck, 231K miles and the two screws that goes to the brake motor looks like this. Can i assume it's been changed before? All of these i've seen have some sort of rust or corosion on it, esp from Northern trucks. Mine is spotless, looks like new
They are really clean and cleaner than the mileage would suggest. The ones I see with the most damage or corrosion are located on the ABS unit itself and not on the motor. I would be happy to see this if it was my vehicle. Lots of suggestions for adding dielectric grease and a vent hole in the rubber, I think that might be a valid point.I have a 2006, North East truck, 231K miles and the two screws that goes to the brake motor looks like this. Can i assume it's been changed before? All of these i've seen have some sort of rust or corosion on it, esp from Northern trucks. Mine is spotless, looks like new
I've found 23 yr old rust buckets from Canada & Boston with clean brake control wire screws. Also supper clean 13 yr old, low mile, no rust with corrosion on screws.
IMHO, the factor that determines if corroded. Is if brake fluid gets on the wires, which fluid then follows wire(s) into the boot(s). Brake reservoir, if overfilled. Will often force out fluid from cap and or grommets, and run/drip onto brake control wires.
IMHO, the factor that determines if corroded. Is if brake fluid gets on the wires, which fluid then follows wire(s) into the boot(s). Brake reservoir, if overfilled. Will often force out fluid from cap and or grommets, and run/drip onto brake control wires.
Hey Fellas,
Wanted your opinion on this...
Swooped up a new to me 03 470 with 213K miles about two weeks ago. It's a friend of a friend and the friend owns a well know off-road shop. He's seen the vehicle and it checks out. The seller is a good dood, too. All the important maintenance has been completed.
About a week after owning it the indicators described in this failure thread light up and the beeping starts. I have no idea what's going on. Throw it in reverse and by the time I get into the street it stops. No big deal. Drive to the store and back with no issues. Two nights later I fire it up and drive it to a friends house and it beeps the entire time. He's an LC guy and I tell him what happened as I arrive and he explains the booster failure issue. It is what it is....I go home and order a rebuilt unit.
Two days later I fire it up and no beeps. Drive it and no beeps, no lights, etc. Weird. Next day...no beeps. Next day...no beeps. Next day..no beeps. It's been a week and this hasn't happened again. Weird.
I get to thinking and the only two times this has happened I've been parked in the driveway which has about a 30% incline. If I park in the street, which is flat, it's fine.
Am I crazy to think this might be happening because I am getting a low fluid reading because of the driveway???
Ryan
Wanted your opinion on this...
Swooped up a new to me 03 470 with 213K miles about two weeks ago. It's a friend of a friend and the friend owns a well know off-road shop. He's seen the vehicle and it checks out. The seller is a good dood, too. All the important maintenance has been completed.
About a week after owning it the indicators described in this failure thread light up and the beeping starts. I have no idea what's going on. Throw it in reverse and by the time I get into the street it stops. No big deal. Drive to the store and back with no issues. Two nights later I fire it up and drive it to a friends house and it beeps the entire time. He's an LC guy and I tell him what happened as I arrive and he explains the booster failure issue. It is what it is....I go home and order a rebuilt unit.
Two days later I fire it up and no beeps. Drive it and no beeps, no lights, etc. Weird. Next day...no beeps. Next day...no beeps. Next day..no beeps. It's been a week and this hasn't happened again. Weird.
I get to thinking and the only two times this has happened I've been parked in the driveway which has about a 30% incline. If I park in the street, which is flat, it's fine.
Am I crazy to think this might be happening because I am getting a low fluid reading because of the driveway???
Ryan
With the 213K miles and it starting to flake out on you, just do it. You don't want the consequences of not doing it.
Agree. New booster has already arrived. Just though it was interesting.
Smart.
It’s a quick swap. Takes longer to bleed. Now you don’t have to worry about it.
Get yourself a spare on of these as well and thank me later.
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First you force me to assume your "brakes failed". "Throw in reverse". As the beeps and dash light can happen for a few reasons.
Only one reason for brake failure, in which pedal goes to the floor with no usable stopping power. Which is no hydraulic brake pressure.
No pressure can happen for 2 main reason:
1) No or very low brake fluid in system.
2) Booster motor fails to come on (fire up).
There are few reason booster motor fails to fire up.
1) Number one is motors commutator has dead spots. With these dead spots. Booster Motor works some times and sometimes it does not, at first. Eventually it will will not fire up at all, dead!.
2) Sometime 12 Volts current, does not get to the motor. This happens in about 1 in 30 brake failures. It is most often due to short within ABS unit (black box on side of master)
At you rigs age and mileage. I would replace the whole brake master assy w/booster. If your brake fluid reservoir is stained/dirty and or fluid is very dark or turns dark quickly after a complete (includes accumulator) flushing.
If just replacing booster motor. Make sure you've a good brake control wire. FSM states it and all it's screws & nuts, are none reusable. This is a resistance wire, and must deliver power as very specific low resistance. Or booster motors commutator, prematurely fails!
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