polishing a TuRD

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I don't remember there being a slip joint/yoke....
 
The splined section?
 
I don't remember one on my 92. There is a rag joint and a u-joint... but no slip. It makes getting the box installed that much more difficult.
 
Ok. So i could just take the rag joint and ujoint currently on my truck and just weld a tube on there and be done right? All the collapsing of the column happens inside the truck in the event of hitting something, correct?
 
On my 92 the collapsing parts of the column seem to in the engine bay (not the cab). IIRC, I have a rag joint and a corrugated section of the shaft.

On my 40, I had no collapsing parts from the factory (but box is mounted all the way back at the fire wall), and when I made the shaft for the ps conversion I didn't add any. I just used two u-joints and made a slip joint out of a deep well socket and an old center punch...
 
Yeah, the splined section that looks like it should slip is the collapsible safety thingy
 
I needed to add to mine (it has the corrugated section) & I just welded an extra section of shaft



hahahahah I said extra shaft.
 
Ok. So i could just take the rag joint and ujoint currently on my truck and just weld a tube on there and be done right? All the collapsing of the column happens inside the truck in the event of hitting something, correct?
You definitely want it to collapse before the firewall. A guy that made a solid shaft in the engine bay on his race car found out the hard way. Almost killed him taking the steering wheel to the chest.
 
You definitely want it to collapse before the firewall. A guy that made a solid shaft in the engine bay on his race car found out the hard way. Almost killed him taking the steering wheel to the chest.

Yea this is what i absolutely do not want to happen.

So i guess I'm looking for the corrugated section.
 
I may have that
 
If its way out on the end of the frame it will force the column back if the frame gets hit. Its a good idea.

Sometimes there is another one in the column that breaks if your chest or face hits the wheel.

There are a lot of sources for double D shafts. The ujoints on the 45 accept hex stock that will slide in an accident, but I'm dead a hundred different ways if I hit something hard enough to bend the frame.
 
I may have one as well. It needs to come from a 79-88 pickup or 4runner to have the slip joint.
 
I have one of the early slip shafts. Just the shaft & slip sleeve, but it has been cut on the sleeve end. It's what I used to make my shaft longer. (Hehehehehe)
 
Did some fxxxing around in the garage tonight, tried to cut a knuckle ball off but was unsuccessful and decided to stop before I really fxxxed something up. I instead ground down my IFS hubs so I can use slip on Tacoma rotors. I was thinking and realized that grinding and using the grinder is like going down on a women. It seems fun when you are not doing it, it is fun for about 5mins then you really want to be doing something else and can't because you still have a bunch of work ahead of you. Also there is a segment of dudes that will say they love doing that as long as it takes and they never tire, but we all know they are full of s***

Un cut on top, cut on bottom.
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I don't want to, but know for certain I will be, thinking of licking pussy as I continue to grind on my tube doors.
Thanks for that Hoff.
At least the under side of my tongue won't be sore from dragging on my bottom teeth.
 
I assume you need to mount the caliper differently?
 
Yea john fror sells a bracket to mount taco or tundra brakes on there.

I'm gone a pull a Tom here Todd but Brit milah?
 

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