polishing a TuRD

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Need the wisdom of the group here: So a 1978 bronco power steering box is 379 bucks + shipping from rock auto. Its forward swing and can handle 37s without hydro assist. The other option is an IFS box (hopefully procured from tony after i show up to his house and "pay" for it a few times) and build a surplus center style hydro assist system.. What says the group? The surplus center style may be procured for a few bucks cheaper and there are more resources out there to build one and parts are easier to find, however forward swing and not having to deal with hydro assist would be nice.

Full hydro will be cool, however i don't know anyone who has ever set one up, and I'm not man enough to trouble shoot problems and experiment on a street driven truck. The only hydraulic systems i have worked on was clapped out military surplus construction/airport equipment.
 
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Forward swing is nice. No hydro assist is nice.

How big is the box?

As a guy with a mini box and hydro assist... I say forward swing with no hydro...

BTW, I think I rubbed through another hydro line... Assist is awesome but mine has been workful.
 
Box is huge, like cut out most the fender huge. Your hydro assist troubles is why I don't want to even fxxx around with full hydro. Trouble shooting it would make me hate life if I don't crash first.
 
4rnr said:
Forward swing is nice. No hydro assist is nice.

How big is the box?

As a guy with a mini box and hydro assist... I say forward swing with no hydro...

BTW, I think I rubbed through another hydro line... Assist is awesome but mine has been workful.
Click to expand...


Weren't you just giving me s*** for telling Jason to skip the assist at PYS?

Go f150 box and no assist. Keep it simple.
 
Honestly, it's simple. But when I jumped in ten years ago... I was over my head... Made some mistakes....
 
Never had hydro.
It's cool!
I like simple, simple usually works.
Keep it simple, I say Ford box & forward swing.

I pulled your hubs this evening & have an IFS box or 2 already off. Just lemme know if I need to bring one to hoedown.
 
Tony if you could bring an ifs box you would be the s***. The f150 box is plan A, however they seem to come and go on rockauto so the ifs box is the backup. If I don't use it I'll return it to you.

John: i hear ya, I was reading billavistas hydro bible and my brain about melted out my ear. If the taco was a trail queen, I would go balls deep on a full hydro system, but I don't want to be trouble shooting it on the side of the highway in bumble fxxx ky.
 
So I was laying under my truck trying to figure out why my pinion is now pointed way too high and noticed my rear frame rail on the drivers side decided to split. The frame cracked right at the bottom seam from my slider Mount and up the frame horn. So wtf do I do now? Its ripped right at the bottom of the box about a foot in each direction right where the spring hangar attaches to the frame. To top it off this was caused by rust so good metal appears to be at a premium.

Options to consider, let me know if I missed any:
Back half the truck and build a tube bed or place old bed on top of a new rear frame.

Attempt to cut everything out and repair it.

Try to procure a mini and swap all my good parts over and scrap the taco

Take up basket weaving

I'll try to get some pics. Looks like either way the Tacoma's going under the knife sooner than expected.
 
Damn G..that sucks.

Basket weaving is nice this time of year.

But I say fix it.
 
I'll probibly rebuild the back half of the frame with some 2x3 since I needed to box that in anyway. This should be fun since I can't use a tape measure and square is a concept that is forgein to me lol.

After this winter the truck will have maybe 8feet of original frame left on it between the front and rhe back half getting replaced LOL.
 
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I say back half it, but in a way that you can still use a bobbed bed.

This explains the blown u joint.
 
Yea now i just need to figure out where I'm going to do this work. Stupid cracker jack houses with crappy electrical LOL. I may have access to a mobile stick welder that needs some leads so i may just use that and fab in the garage and piss off the neighbors with the noise. Thank god for no homeowners association for when my pickup bed is in the driveway for a month or so.

Its crazy the pinion is pointing up at the horse collar and when you put a straight edge on the flange, the pinion is pointing about 6inchs above the tcase output. I'm thinking about chopping it right behind the cab and using 2x3 3/16's and building a new rear frame. I needed to beef this up anyway and was planning on doing it this winter. A flatbed would be neat.
 
Flat bed would be better! But I thought you wanted to keep a "stock" looking bed...

2x3? I feel like that is too small... The 3 part...

I literally have the same exact house as you... It works fine. And I do have a homeowners association... I do recommend running real outlets into the garage though. I can give you the info of the guy who ran mine. He is union and reasonable! That outlet by the switch can't power s***!!

Let me know if you need any tools. The bender is the only thing I don't have in stock currently.
 
2x3 seems to be the consensus with the guys who have rebuilt mini frames and it seems to be 100% stronger than whats on there stock. The flat bed would be the most practical solution since my bed is wasted in all planes, bobbing it will bring the suck.

As for the house wireing: The part that sucks about my house is: the electrical panel is under my kitchen sink in the basement and the jackass that re did the basement drywalled the ceiling. That sucks because in order to get the power to the garage i would have to smash out some drywall and re do that which will suck. However, I will take the dudes info, perhaps he as some ideas and I'm just WAY overthinking it.

Its not the exact same... Mines a Dover 4, not a Barclay 2:meh:

Ill post up some tech day days on here for anyone who wants to come once i get the welder situation sorted out. I'll have the weber going and the cooler filled.
 
Links or leafs?
 
I'm too dumb for links.
 
i have a 6000 watt generator and a mig in downers grove if you want to borrow one or both of them.
 
slander said:
As for the house wireing: The part that sucks about my house is: the electrical panel is under my kitchen sink in the basement and the jackass that re did the basement drywalled the ceiling. That sucks because in order to get the power to the garage i would have to smash out some drywall and re do that which will suck. However, I will take the dudes info, perhaps he as some ideas and I'm just WAY overthinking it.

Its not the exact same... Mines a Dover 4, not a Barclay 2:meh:

Ill post up some tech day days on here for anyone who wants to come once i get the welder situation sorted out. I'll have the weber going and the cooler filled.
Click to expand...

Depending on the contents of the conduit running to the garage you should be able to just pull new leads. You'd be amazed how much wire you can pull through 1/2" conduit when you lube it well.

I can loan you my bender and welder, I don't plan on putting the 80 through major surgery until after the new year. Have two house projects I want to finish first.
 
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