Plugging Distributor Vents

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How long can you plug the vent holes on the distributor before you have a problem?

I plug the top vent when washing but would like to plug all the vents when its wet wheeling but not sure how long one could plug it before it would cause a problem.

Could you plug it for a day, week or longer? I would assume it depends on where you are in the country and how damp it is out.
Does plugging the three holes seal it or is there another vent on it?
 
Plugging just for the day out wheeling would be fine, but if camping out, then overnight condensation could cause problems, depending on the temps. I installed a clear plastic tube in the top hole, routed to the battery box, where I get some incoming forced fresh air to the dist. with a clip on it I can close, to seal it for wet conditions. Does nothing for the other 2 holes, but they serve a drain function anyway. The dist. is in a high location, and you can go pretty deep before stalling.
 
Here are a few photos showing two breather holes and one smaller weep hole in the distributor housing (96-97 1FZFE). The six smaller holes on the bottom are threaded and plugged by the 6 screws on the inside that hold the electronics in place, FWIW.
Distributor open sensor pick up DSC04947.jpg
distributor breather holes front DSC00950.jpg
Side view distributor breather holes DSC00983.jpg
 
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Mine is completely sealed up. I haven't had any problems at all. I sealed it up with silicon caulk. I'll be interested to see if others have had problems in doing so. The reason I did this is because I have stalled it out executing a deep water crossing. I read a number of posts on Mud that recommended sealing up the distributor.
 
Why not put a couple hose barbs in it and set it up like the older cruisers with a filter on one and a check valve into the air cleaner on the other ?
 
Koffer; agree. There are also small industrial grade breather valves available (with shields and filters) used to vent industrial gear boxes, motors, etc; they can be screwed directly into the holes (once they're tapped) which is my plan.
 
Koffer; agree. There are also small industrial grade breather valves available (with shields and filters) used to vent industrial gear boxes, motors, etc; they can be screwed directly into the holes (once they're tapped) which is my plan.

links?
 
I think I had mine plugged for a few months, turned my distributor innards into a green gooey mess and a non-starting truck.

If you want to seal it then I would run a vent to the air filter housing...
 
Sc0: can you describe the green goo, like was it a moldy slimey stuff or was some of it the sealant that was used?? Had you been in some deep water during that time?

I'm thinking if all the open holes are connected to the air filter housing/muffler whether the negative pressure could suck oil past the distributor shaft seal to up under the cap?? My plan is to keep it simple and use shielded breather valves on both of the larger holes which will allow air to enter or exit passively but not allow water to enter and leave the small weep hole open.
 
I think I had mine plugged for a few months, turned my distributor innards into a green gooey mess and a non-starting truck.

If you want to seal it then I would run a vent to the air filter housing...

yeah, I have pictures of this carnage also..

a
 
The distributor needs to be vented, that is why there are holes in it. IMHO, the best plan is to copy the breather on earlier rigs, a bigger line ~1/4" going into the cabin and a normal vacuum line going to the air cleaner. This allows for airflow when the motor is running.
 
Wounder why Toyota cut corners with the 1FZ by not venting the distributor with vacuum lines. Is the distributor vented this way for non-USA versions?
 
Wounder why Toyota cut corners with the 1FZ by not venting the distributor with vacuum lines. Is the distributor vented this way for non-USA versions?

The distributor is much higher on the motor compared to the earlier motors. Likely thought it wasn't needed for most US driving needs/uses?
 
Tools: What routing might be best for the hoses?

lordbater: definitely post up those photos
 
I couldn't find them. I threw the dist in a box and haven't looked at it in a few months. not much green left. When it failed it had a lot of moisture in there. I drive this truck at the beach a lot..

Sealing the distributor was definitely a bad idea.

3fe by the way..
This is what it looks like now..

Andrew
dist.jpg
 
So the corrosion developed after you sealed it, or just because it's been sitting in the garage?
 
I was under the impression that by sealing it I either let moisture in that couldn't get out, or condensation that couldn't get out.

It had gooey green s*** all in there, sort of like copper corrosion. The rust happened since it's been sitting..


A
 
Koffer; agree. There are also small industrial grade breather valves available (with shields and filters) used to vent industrial gear boxes, motors, etc; they can be screwed directly into the holes (once they're tapped) which is my plan.

Anybody have any web-site references for these. I am have having difficulty finding them.
 

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