PLEASE, HELP A NON MECHANIC GUY HAVE SOME SIMPLE, BASIC PERFORMANCE UPGRADE WORK DONE ON HIS 12H-T ENGINE

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Hello everyone.

(Sorry for the long post)

  • Let’s say I am no mechanic at all, which is the case. Just a regular dude passionate about the 12 H-T engine (which is the case too J ) . Let’s further suppose I live in an environment with limited or no access to expert knowledge on 12H-T (that’s been the case so far). If I needed to have any “ordinary” mechanics do some simple, basic work on my 12H-T performance upgrades based on my own layman’s checklist what would you AMEND, ADD to or REMOVE from that checklist (here below)?

  • Here’s my layman’s 13-point performance upgrades Checklist for my 12H-T .
1) Engine rebuilt. Status: Done

  • I don’t know if that can be called a rebuild.
  • Actually, I have been able to source a 12H-T from which the previous owner had removed the turbo a long time ago. I have no idea of how many kilometers were on the clock but the engine looked fine (no cracks in the cylinders, STD crankshaft, etc.). The major apparent issue was the damaged pistons. The previous owner advised to merely replace the “bad” pistons as he was confident with all else being just fine. Seems have kept the engine on the ground safely from water.
  • So, the job that has been done so far is that we replaced the pistons along with what my research shows is called “rod bearing shell” and also, I think, side crankshaft shims. (Hey, remember, I said I was no mechanic, just having a few friends around to help in)

  • All in all, the engine had what seemed a good restart!
2) The Alfin pistons. Status: Replacement Done

  • I don’t have a clue what they look like. I read about a few tips on how to recognize alfin from non alfin piston, but too lazy of a layman to check that so, I read TEIKIN was making good alfin Pistons. So, we purchased pistons (13101-68020) & RINGs (13011-68020/13013-68030). I can just hope they are as good as I heard about.

  • 3) The Injection pump: Status: Replacement done with a seemingly good working one.

  • The previous Injection pump was did work fine at the engine first (re)start as it would cause the engine to accelerate endlessly. Sourcing a new injection pump is near impossible as they are very expensive on the net. Also, I am not sure who can do the recondition job locally. Luckily, I had a spare one that we used rather, and the engine restarted fine. Performance wide, I still can’t tell if that spare one is working at is best. I am not sure who can do the checks locally. It seems to work fine (no smoke!!!). I’d rather not give it to a so-called expert who may damage it.

4) The Injectors: Status: Replacement done with a seemingly good working ones.

  • Sourcing a new set is near impossible as they are very expensive on the net. Also, I am not sure who can do the recondition job locally. However, they seem ok but maybe I can’t really tell until the engine is put back in the car and driven for a while.
  • The injector nozzles seem to be easier to source than the complete injectors. I don’t don’t know if it is worth it to buy a set of nozzles and replace them in the current injectors. Don’t know.
5) Turning up the fuel: More Fuel + More Air = More Power. Status: I’d rather NOT to.

  • I read a bit here and there about “increasing fuel and boost levels from std values” for more power. I’d like to but here too, I am not sure who can do that locally. Then, I’d rather not take any risk of damaging my hard-won 12H-T

6) The Turbo: More Fuel + More Air = More Power. Status: already sourced, installation planned for very soon.
As said earlier, the previous owner had removed the turbo for “oil-related issues”. I don’t understand much of what he meant by that but I intend to put the turbo back. I have purchased a more modern turbo from Wink 4x4 - Engineered Performance - http://www.wink4x4.com
(I don’t know if they’re any good, some forums say they are), but I mostly fell for their brief description lines on their website J​
Hi-flow turbos​
We supply a fully customized engineered turbocharger range, fitted into the OEM Toyota CT26 housing. Both turbine and compressor wheels on the turbocharger are custom designed. The original CT26 technology is about 15-30 years old. Our new design contains modern technology and is more responsive to give your Land Cruiser better drivability.
All turbochargers are more efficient and designed to run at higher boost levels with even lower intake temperatures, due to higher efficiency. The bearing system is upgraded with 360 degree thrust bearings and can hold up to 30psi (2bar) of turbo pressure. (Wink 4x4 - Turbochargers - http://www.wink4x4.com/turbo/)​


7) The Compression test. Status: Not done. I don’t have the knowledge nor the tool

I read it was important to do it before considering putting a turbo. I don’t know if it applies to 12H-T as this engine is built to have a Turbo. However, it is said that doing the Compression test on a 12H-T is not that simple (I challenged the mechanics here from my readings, they seemed lost)… Moreover, I searched the net and could NOT find a kit/tool that would make the job easy. Any link to a kit/tool or simple technique?​

8) The Intercooler: More Fuel + More “COLD Air” = More Power. Status: already sourced, installation planned for very soon

I read a bit about intercoolers. They seem a good upgrade for 12H-T as this engine was produced before the “invention” of intercoolers.​
I’d for a Top mount, just because it seems easier to install (closer to the engine, less piping) and looks more badass J​
Something silly I’d also like to try is collecting in a small reservoir the cold water from the A/C, then recycling/(and pumping) it to the engine bay through a sprayer over the intercooler and back to the reservoir to mix up with the continuously pouring A/C cold water again. I don’t know yet what it would look like or whether it would be any effect in helping the intercooler cooling the air from the turbo J​


9) The oil pump. Status: Replacement done with a seemingly good working one.

  • I read that it is always a good thing to replace the old one after rebuilding the engine. I have one brand new spare Oil pump, but the mechanic managed to convince me to keep the old one as it seems still work fine. What would you advise?
10) The Water pump. Status: Replacement done with a seemingly good working one.

  • We kept the old one though we were in a position to source a new. What would you advise?
11) A 3” inch exhaust. Status: Replacement done.

  • From readings, it seems to help improve the engine performance. So, I bought one from www.deaperformance.com.au (I would usually blindly trust products from Australia J)
12) Gauges. Status: sourcing in progress, installation planned for very soon.
  • I’m definitely going to get a few of them (pre- and post-turbo, pre- and post-intercooler)
13) The brake systems. Status: sourcing in progress, installation planned for very soon.
Regards
Boris

 
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micruz60

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This diesel specific forum may be more helpful?

 

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