ok so in prep for the upcoming pig run , i have seen that you must have good brakes to go over the passes. here is my issue . my brakes suck . I am running a 80 series master to front dba crossdrilled /sloted rotors ,80 series yellowstuff Ebc pads .v6 calipers. rear full float axle disc brakes 120 series yellowstuff ebc rear pads .... problem is i can overheat them bad on long downhills . a mile of downhill brakes the pedal gets rock hard from excessive heat . i know i am overweght with all the add ons .normal driving they are fine .. I cant fit larger rotors in my wheels, that would have been my next attempt . any good ideas out there .
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What did the rotors come from or what were they for. I'm using 4runner rotors & calipers. 16 inch wheels just clear the calipers. I'm not getting why your heating up.
Are all the brakes getting hot or just front? Caliper dragging, if it was my wife's vehicle, I'd say she was riding with her foot on the pedal.
That sucks big, because I've got about the same system.
That sucks big, because I've got about the same system.
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yes they are hot . i have installed a pressure gauge on all 4 calipers , and drove it hard/hot until it failed . no calipers are dragging . from what i understand . there is only 2 possible issues .. one is fluid boiling ... and the other is pad surface outgasing . hence the performance pads . the only other option i can think of is my mag wheels are to close keeping the heat from the rotors from escaping . but i am stumped .and after having it on most of the trails in moab most of the nor cal trails and a ton of 4+local ones in Saint George .i am nervous to take it over any passes in colorado
How could you be much heavier than any of us. What about Dot 5 fluid, that's what I use. It might not boil as fast being a silicone based fluid.
Just shooting in the dark now.
Just shooting in the dark now.
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the 4.7 eng trans combo is one of the heaviest ones we have ever installed . add the 50 gal fuel tank 1/2 plate gas tank skid , trans skid , t-case skid , 4 spare axle shafts , 3 spare birfs ,enough tools to overhaul the space shuttle . man i really should strip it down and start over on my packing
I know mine is heavy as well and I have Monster calipers on the front and Tundra front calipers on the rear, both with cross drilled rotors. They don't seem to get that hot and I can stop the 37 inch tires faster than the street racing Honda in the other lane. The difference is I can keep the speed down with the manual transmission. I have a lot of experience with the engine and driveline you are running because of all the 100 series Land Cruisers that I have worked on. They are definitely brake pad eating beasts, but rarely have I seen one with heavy heat damage on the rotors. They will hold themselves fairly well on steep down hills with dropping down a gear. For an automatic transmission any ways. Does yours not? Do you still run the front backing plates? I removed mine and maybe that makes a difference. I also have very similar wheels to yours and they seem to flow air fairly well.
At any rate, I would rather have to stop every so often during the Pig Fest than not have you there. It will be just too neat to miss!
At any rate, I would rather have to stop every so often during the Pig Fest than not have you there. It will be just too neat to miss!
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oh i am there for sure . just dont want to jeopardize the family . my backing plates are on . i am in the process of widening stock wheels to gain the factory look , hope to be done in time to use them , it is a long process , i thought of making air vent plates to direct the air over the rotors ,,it only happens on long downhills , street driving i can stop on a dime
Could you be heat soaking your master? Driving a lot slower over passes and trails not as much heat being pulled from engine bay. This was a common thing in vintage racing, we would make a shield between the master and the engine. Just a thought