Pictures of the 'new' BJ70 Diesel Rag-Top!

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moose_sv1000s said:
Also, I'm trying to track down a low-frequency but pronounced vibration that I feel in the floor/tranny tunnel when I let off the gas and the drivetrain brakes the engine (decending a hill or approaching a stoplight). It feels like a loose mount somewhere, but it might just be normal. Do you have anything like that?

That's a bad u-joint. Could be a loose pinion or bad pinion bearing, bust most likely a bad u-joint.

Peter Straub
 
i deal with corrosion on float planes all the time. there are decent products out there you can buy at napa or crappy tire. my favorite is lps 3 . it has a straw and can be sprayed into holes in the doors. it leaves behind a waxy film. it also lubricates. so you can spray in on moving parts. lps 1 is penetrating spray and lps 2 is more of a spray lube. but doesn't stay behind like lps 3.
other serious products we use on aircraft are stuff called dinitrol. you can get it in pales or spray cans. this leaves a film on the surface. it won't wash off. dirt won't affect it either. when you buy it you pick between different microns . makes it either thick or penetrating. if anyone wants info about this stuff or anything pls pm me. I don't sell it. but have used it in serious salt water applications for a while. so should be really good on a truck. mines getting it when the body work it done.
 
For rust proofing I don't think you can beat used engine oil, just spray everything underneath once a year preferably in the summer and give all the access holes in the frame a good soaking as well. When you are done take her for a drive down a dusty road, the dust will stick to the oil and leave a slimy sludge all over, this will repel all the moisture. A good sprayer to use is the garden variety with a pump up bottle, if it don't want to spray properly as is, mix diesel fuel with the oil to thin it down a little.

I have noticed that vehicles that are garaged overnight tend to rust more that those left outside, I think this is due to lack of a breeze, the hot parts just steam the vehicle if put inside while wet.

PS I come from the UK where the weather is much the same as Vancouver, most vehicles there don't make it past 10 yrs old before a visit to the wreckers yard because of the vast amount of salt they put on the road. The undersides of mine were always rust free, dirty, but rust free.
 
we used that idea for years down east, we still do in the rurals. it works very well.

the biggest problem with vehicles being parked inside is the ice and salt melts allowing the salt to soak into the spot welded seams causing rust in very short time. in Alberta it doesn't really make much difference with the chinooks that come through. the warm air melts the ice and it still seeps in... best solution is to keep you car washed underneath at a "fresh" water washing facility... do not use a wash bay that recycles their water, you are just spraying someone else's salt onto your truck...
oh and keep the drain holes unpluged...
cheers
 
Stone said:
Get that thing rust-proofed right away. Make sure you do a good job of getting the inside of the frame rails and cross members covered. There's also a few cavities on the body that are especially prone to rust. Might as well protect it now while it's cancer free. Again, congratulations!

Not just now for a one time thing but each and every year!! If you don't you'll just be delaying the rust.
 
This is the stuff that I'm currently using from Lordco ($80/5 gal if you have an account with discount):

Wax Based Permanent Rustproofing



High quality wax based rustproofing that provides durable protection. Product bonds to metal surfaces by molecular attraction. It can be used on both exterior and interior underbody surfaces. It remains slightly tacky and flexible.

Features
Protects against rust, salt and corrosion.
Creeps and penetrates.
Resist abrasion.
Never loses adhesion
Dries to a slightly tacky film

group_hrv_20.jpg
 

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