Pictures and measurements needed - PLEASE! (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Aug 12, 2024
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Location
UK
Morning! In my task of renewing varies rusty bits (there are a few...) and sorting the bushes, i need to replace the rear panhard bracket on the chassis side. Many, many attempts with parts suppliers and Mr T himself say it is no longer made (51502-60010) so i'll have to get my welding man on the case.

Since the rusty bits have gone, could some kind soul please photograph their panhard bracket with some tape measures? Since the axle needs to be spot on i really want to be accurate on this. If you think there are any other useful measurements please could you do those too?

For the sake of a bracket...

This is what's left of mine
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I recall from buying a panhard correction kit that there are two different styles of upper mount, so you that might matter here.

Speaking of PCK, as an alternative, if there is enough good metal left, I wonder if you could have your guy weld in the upper side of an Eimkeith panhard correction kit mount to make that usable again?

 
I don't think you need to be that accurate, especially if you have any sort of lift. They do make adjustable panhard bars for the rear.

Here is what I have in my photo collection. You can use the washer underneath the nut as a ruler as it is a known size to get your dimensions. When I have time, I could go out with a ruler.

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I was working on my LX450 today and took a couple of pictures for you.

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Primer - Corroless S Rust Inhibiting Primer
Top coat - Corroless RF16 Glass Reinforced
Gloss Black Top CoatWax
for inside the box section - Corroless corrosion inhabiting cavity wax

I wish we could get Corroless here. If it's good engouh for North Sea oil platforms, it's good enough for my truck.
 
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i must admit i'm also extremely jealous of the beautiful condition of your vehicles...clearly not in the winter salt areas! Scotland is different...

I am in the Northeast of the US, world capital of salt on the roads. I am surprised you are getitng that much rust in Scotland. I mean, how often does it snow there?

My truck is in better condition than some for area is be because it sat for 15+ years. I am mechanically restoring it now.

I coat everything with Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver Gel Spray and let it eat the rust.

I then use Professional Cold Galvanizing Compound Spray Paint, followed by Rustoleum Black Semi-Gloss paint.

In between the two should be a bonding primer to help the top coat stick.

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i'm looking jealously at your almost mint 51502-60010....

my new antiroll bar arrived this morning. Couldn't put new bushes onto the old one or they'd be ground to dust in the first 50 yds!
 
Just as a silly question - would i be able to run without the rear panhard? I have an '88 Range Rover and have just done the suspension - that has the same control arm setup, but no panhard at the rear.
 
Short answer no, a short distant maybe.
 
Just as a silly question - would i be able to run without the rear panhard? I have an '88 Range Rover and have just done the suspension - that has the same control arm setup, but no panhard at the rear.

You need to go look at your 1988 Range Rover rear suspension again and then compare it to the FJ80 rear suspension. Take a close look at the upper links. Then let me know if they are "same control arm setup"

The 80 needs a panhard bar, running without it at any speed or distance, other than moving into/out of a garage at slow speed, would be a significant safety issue.
 
I am in the Northeast of the US, world capital of salt on the roads. I am surprised you are getitng that much rust in Scotland. I mean, how often does it snow there?

My truck is in better condition than some for area is be because it sat for 15+ years. I am mechanically restoring it now.

I coat everything with Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver Gel Spray and let it eat the rust.

I then use Professional Cold Galvanizing Compound Spray Paint, followed by Rustoleum Black Semi-Gloss paint.

In between the two should be a bonding primer to help the top coat stick.

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They paint the roads with salt in the UK; it's used as an asphalt wear coat.
 
ok, it doesn't have double uppers - only the central boge strut
 
looks like i've found a man who can get the bits - rust free is the claim! - he sources them from middle east breakers so less chance of salt on the roads...
Not cheap, but if it works then happy days!
 
A Middle East source? They'll not only be rust free, but lightly sandblasted.:greedy::smuggrin:
 
Well it looks like the bit and i've got a UPS number. Regardless it's somewhat better than what's attached to the car at the moment. I'm assuming it's made of a gold / unobtainium alloy though.


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A quick update. My welding man is busy until Feb so necessity being the mother of invention i fabb'd up an interim soln. 3mm plate, plasma cutter and a gass free MiG (suppose that makes it an M?). Cut out the rotten bit and weld on the new little box section.


Not the prettiest, but enough to work and PASS and MoT! A few coats of black smoothrite over the top and we were done. I'll maybe hang onto my replacement bracket until this gives up the ghost!

So anyone doubting if these things can be done - yes they can. Even if you're not a professional. Just take your time. And overengineer the buggery out of it!

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