Parts/fluids (1 Viewer)

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justimaginejack

Looking for a new Cruiser
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Threads
14
Messages
360
Location
St.Louis/ Floyd, VA/ Phoenix AZ
what have you guys used succussfully: brad/spec
Oil Filters
Air Filters
Oil- I use mobile one extended performance.
Diff fluid
Brake fluid
Transmission Fluid
Radiator Fluid
Trasfer case fluid
Timing Belt
Brake rotors, Both use the same rear but I put the Lexus Slotted vented... up front. they wear better???
Break Pads?
Spark Plugs: I went with the Lexus Iriduims
Batteries_ I recently replaced the stock panasonic with a 800cca Interstate??
Stock LC front light bulbs?
other fluid/parts recomendations

I have been using Toyota brand everything(except oil) and doing ok. But both the guys at Lexus and the Guys at Toyota Laughed when I said I was going to try to get the oil to 15k . they said i was nuts. I am testing it in my ES300 first. have had no trouble. And if it goes bad the I can use the recall. I have done all the maintinance to spec. when I told them I could get the filters at the auto store they gave me the whole Toyota makes it the best yada yada yada. Which I replied, toyota contracts the best and i agree. who makes it for you again? I have been a great customer of theirs for to long. While I value my relationship, the prices are getting to ridiculous. I will upgrade it if it is worth it.

I am not looking for cheap. This vehicle deserves the best. It has made to 135k and looks new, runs great. As I begine to modify it for off road I know certain things will change. I want to put the best in and if that is different from what I am using I would like to know from someone who owns an LC/LX and has done it. I want this thing to make it to 300k if I can.

All recomendations are greatly appreciated

I currently have a toyota,wicks, mobile one. and K&N oil filter in my trunk. I was going to cut them open and check for myself but that will be a very expensive learning experiance.

Also, upgrading the air filter to metal.... worth it in the long run if I know I will put a snorkal on it???

I really appreciate your opinions.

How many of you guys still have any of the services done at the dealer??? Which ones? There is one toyota dealer in st.louis that is ok with LC, but Lexus does alot and is very knowledgable and expensive. I use Feld Toyota and Lexus of St.Louis if you guys know of another in or around St.Louis let me know. I do most of the routine stuff. Still learning...
 
Oil Filters: Toyota 90915-20004 Japanese made Denso
Air Filters: Toyota
Oil- M1 Delvac 5w40
Diff fluid- M1 Delvac 75w90 gear oil
Brake fluid- Valvoline synthetic dot 4 (dot 4 absorbs more water than dot 3, so beware if you live in a humid environment)
Transmission Fluid- Toyota type T-IV
Radiator Fluid- Toyota long life red+steam distilled water (not RO water since that still has residual solids)
Trasfer case fluid- M1 Delvac 75w90 gear oil
Brake rotors, Both use the same rear but I put the Lexus Slotted vented... up front. they wear better??? Lexus/Toyota doesn't make slotted vented, so you have some aftermarket rotor. Right now, I'm using original OEM rotors, will probably go w/ PowerSlot cryogenic slotted once the slight warp in the fronts gets worse or 90K mi, whichever comes first.
Break Pads? Toyota. '03+ front pads/calipers are different than '98-02 front pads/calipers, so different braking bias.
Batteries- Odyssey PC1700MJT
 
Toyota YDDZ3 Oil Filter made in Thailand by Denso is a quality filter and around $4 from Cruiserdan. Although the 20004 fillter is considered better ($10 from CruiserDan by the case) . I wonder if the JDM OCIs are longer than 7500 miles.

For Radiator fluid I would also consider the Toyota Super long Life Coolant that comes premixed depending on your maintenence plans.

Transfluids - Toyotas T-IV or Mobil 3309. XMO is an OEM supplier to Toyota in NA and the Toyota fluid is probably the exact same product.

I like the OEM air filters and see no point in going aftermarket.

If you are pushing 15k with the OCI then maybe the M1 M-209 would be best for you. The M1, K&N Wix and the OEM Toyota are all good filters. Please post your Used Oil Analysis on the board if you get one done.

Have you reviewed the FAQs ?

While I would not have I any problem pushing 15-20k miles in the 4.7L with M1 EP (with UOAs) I would not do it in the 3.0L V6. The 3.0L V6 is very hard on oil and requires short intervals. Toyota has lowered the intervals on the engines to 5000k for all service conditions and will require proof of services for warranty claims. What year is your ES?
 
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My ES is an 01, and I have done every service according to the dealership except the last two oil changes. I went 7500, and now will try 10-15K Oil looked clean last time I checked. I can't say anything for the deposits though. Toyota just lost a major law suit where andy of the 4 or 6 cylider engines gum up at any mileage for any reason toyota has to replace the whole thing. I have a bunch of paper work Toyota USA mailed me. So far so good. S5000 have a few more litres but they don't recommend and oil change until at least 10,000. miles and I think the 4.7 v8 is a cooling running engine from what I am told. So for a daily driver in the burbs, and around the farm during this time of year no worries.
 
Toyota YDDZ3 Oil Filter made in Thailand by Denso is a quality filter and around $4 from Cruiserdan. Although the 20004 fillter is considered better ($10 from CruiserDan by the case) . I wonder if the JDM OCIs are longer than 7500 miles.
[snip]

Wife says JDM OCI's are in general around 1K miles instead of 3K miles, at least in the Tokyo area. Reason is, people mainly drive for recreation on the weekends on well-known driving courses (e.g., along the coastline), so they end up sitting in completel gridlock for hours upon hours, thinking, "Wow, driving is great!" That's why those used Japanese engines are guaranteed to have 30K mi or less on them...they spent all their time idling! Most people also dump their cars at 5 yrs since they car tax starts getting expensive. The laws are rigged to encourage people to buy new cars. The older your car is, the more you pay for the inspection (we're talking like $1K-$2K for an "inspection"), and if your car so much drips one drop of oil, you're hosed! It's gonna cost ya $$$$ in fines (I think this is one reason why toyota seals are so good). There's also a displacement & cylinder tax, ~$100 per cylinder. Hence there are lots of high-output I-4's (twin turbo's, etc.) there...this is the way to cheat the system. Vehicles w/ small engines (we're talking 1.5 liters or so) get special yellow license plates, cheaper taxes, etc. LC is costly to own there...high octane gas is like $5-6/gallon, plus the 4.7L V8 is considered a huge engine there, $800 annual engine tax. You'll be hearing the cash register going "cha-ching" when you drive.
 

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