I tried to adjust my parking brake for the Hollister Mud In Yer Eye event so it will pass safety inspection. I noticed that no matter how tight the adjustment the truck will not stop in drive at idle speed with the parking brake on, but it will hold in reverse even when lightly accelarating. I am guessing I need to redo the parking brake because there are shoes in either direction? Is it faster to take it Toyota or is it a one banana to get this done before thursday night this week? Please help. Thanks.
Parking Brake only holds in "R" not in "D" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mickey_rubicon
- Start date
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To inspect:
1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove caliper.
3. Mark matchmarks between hub and disc.
4. Remove disc.
You'll now be staring at the e-brake assembly. It works just like a Chevy...use adjuster to tighten and loosen. Once you're sure the shoes are okay and linkage is operating, put the disc back on and adjust. Proper adjustment is tighten through backplate hole until disc locks up and then back it off 8 clicks.
1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove caliper.
3. Mark matchmarks between hub and disc.
4. Remove disc.
You'll now be staring at the e-brake assembly. It works just like a Chevy...use adjuster to tighten and loosen. Once you're sure the shoes are okay and linkage is operating, put the disc back on and adjust. Proper adjustment is tighten through backplate hole until disc locks up and then back it off 8 clicks.
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- Thread starter
- #4
maybe a dumb question, but how is the disc removed? Anything special there, or once I remove the wheel, everything should come to me.
The disc rotor/drum assy will simply come off but they usually fight you a bit if the parking brake drum isn't retraction completely away from the drum or hooks in a groove in the drum. You'll find a pair of threaded holes that allow you to place pulling pressure on it by screwing a screw in and banging it with a hammer. The banging part is important as the brake shoes may continue to hang slightly and this releases them in micro steps, allowing another half turn or so of the thread. Place too much pressure on the screws and you'll break the threads, and this probably means the shoes are jammed and you should back off a bit and pound until it screws with less effort.
DougM
DougM
- Thread starter
- #6
At 220K miles, what is the likelyhood that I will need new shoes or other parts? Or should the adjustment be the only thing to get done now. I dont think this was ever done. I maxed it out and added spacers at the hand crank to no avail.
the issue with my ebrake was that the cale that runs from the belcrank over to the shoe was frozen at the pivot pin. This didn't allow it to rotate properly and apply tension aligned to the shoe so it lost some of it's effect. I tore everything appart and lubeted it with white lithium, that was like 4 years ago.
- Thread starter
- #8
sounds like I am just gonna have to get dirty and use a BFH and sing some folk songs.
BFH is the wrong route with the drum. Tapping is the way to go. You tap too hard and you'll leave hammer marks which kind of shows to all and sundry how poorly you treat your parts.
Kalawang
Kalawang
bellcrank was seized on mine as well....('94 80 - 150K miles) there's a kit available formt he dealer (c-dan?) that wasn't too expensive to rejuvenite the bellcrank and associated bits....
stayalert said:
Belcrank kit? CDan? Parts? Cost? We are talking about the bits in the rubber boot on the backing plate, not the L-R equalizer (equally rusty) on the axle itself, right? I just keep dribbling toyopeen in there, but in my case, this seems to be an annual requirement.
- Thread starter
- #12
i will be doing this tonight, will post some photos if I remember to take them - I will still sing folk songs even if I cant lay down the law with the BFH
- Thread starter
- #13
got the parking brake did
well with the help from amando got the e brake did on the 80 - here is some pictures. had to use the 12mm bolts and sewing machin oil to free the rotor from the pipe, then I also noticed my rotors look like graham crackers so that will be the next project, other then that it git her done, then after Amando and I met up with Drexx visiting from the Philippines and celbrated at chevys
well with the help from amando got the e brake did on the 80 - here is some pictures. had to use the 12mm bolts and sewing machin oil to free the rotor from the pipe, then I also noticed my rotors look like graham crackers so that will be the next project, other then that it git her done, then after Amando and I met up with Drexx visiting from the Philippines and celbrated at chevys
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Dont look like you are singing folk songs
- Thread starter
- #15
no, not after seeing my rotors. they look like graham crackers. I need to get a set real fast. They are held together by the dry mud in the vents. its a real situation. they are original with 220k but they are worn as heck.
Well you had better pull your finger out and find some new ones ostrich man.
This is P.M. you should have done months ago.
This is P.M. you should have done months ago.
- Thread starter
- #17
no worries, 220k from a set of rotors. I figure i can find somebody that pulled theirs I can swap them in there for another hundred thousand miles. not paying for the OEM over the counter price thats for sure. that would be like a thousend bucks for all four rotors.
Absolutely, save the cash on good rotors and buy an ARB so when you hit something you'll probably get the better of it.
Hey, where's mountain view? I'm in Monterey right now, and for a few days I suspect.
Man, that Coors picture absolutely cracks me up! Nobody else commented on it so I'm not sure others understood the significance of that photo or where it is, but I recognized it because I once ran some wiring under there. It makes me laugh that here on the same list are people like me who gently wheel their rigs and take pride in keeping them neat as a pin and 80s like your picture that are missing the entire center console and carpet and being driven with Nalgene bottles rattling around. Good laugh for the day to ya!
DougM
DougM
