Painting tips?

[dogfishlake]

@dogfishlake thanks! I painted the parts on Saturday and they have 4 coats of base metallic. Do I need to sand them again with the base coat on? Or just hit them with 2-3 coats of clear?

Just do the clear. Ideally you should clear a little sooner to make sure the two adhere, like maybe an hour or so, but it should be fine. If you sand metallic it will kick the fine flakes around enough to make your sanding marks show. It may not hurt to scuff lightly with a grey scotch brite pad (auto body supply store) because it's about 320 grit and won't likely hurt anything but you really should be fine without. Being a spray can there is no real hardener so the solvent in the clear should soften the base coat enough for good "bite".

 

[Marine7]

You NEED to apply clear coat within 24 hours, if you miss the 24 hour window....leave it for a week, then get some 2000 grit wet dry paper, and LIGHTLY wet sand it out. Start with 2000 grit, and work up to 3000 grit. Once it's LIGHTLY sanded, wipe it down with some cleaner on a clean rag, then with a tack cloth, then spray your clear.
For results that look even close to "body shop" painted, use 2 stage clear coat in a can. DO NOT USE CLEAR FROM ECONOMY AUTO PARTS STORES! Go to NAPA, they usually stock 2 stage clear in a can. And ...... WEAR A RESPIRATOR, that stuff is no joke. Good luck!

 

[lcgeek]

I took it to Maaco and got their premium paint that would get me close to factory quality. 1500.00 for the paint and 1500.00 for labor so it came to 3300.00 after tax. These guys at Maaco in my area did a superb job. Oh it comes with 5 years warranty cracks, fades, and workmanship.

Looks good. Did they remove flares, door handles, emblems, glass, and bumpers or just tape around?

 

[dogfishlake]

You NEED to apply clear coat within 24 hours, if you miss the 24 hour window....leave it for a week, then get some 2000 grit wet dry paper, and LIGHTLY wet sand it out. Start with 2000 grit, and work up to 3000 grit. Once it's LIGHTLY sanded, wipe it down with some cleaner on a clean rag, then with a tack cloth, then spray your clear.
For results that look even close to "body shop" painted, use 2 stage clear coat in a can. DO NOT USE CLEAR FROM ECONOMY AUTO PARTS STORES! Go to NAPA, they usually stock 2 stage clear in a can. And ...... WEAR A RESPIRATOR, that stuff is no joke. Good luck!

On pro paint products with hardener added, that recoat time is critical, but on spray cans that air dry I imagine it is no big deal. I could be wrong but I strongly feel there is enough solvent in the clear coat rattle can to melt into the base coat for sufficient intercoat adhesion. Honestly, I don't know for sure because when you rattle can something you kind of get what you pay for.

 

[jcardona1]

You NEED to apply clear coat within 24 hours,

This is important. I apply clear 10-20 minutes after the last coat of paint. If I wait any longer the clear coat reacts with the paint and it crinkles up. 24hrs is too long from my experience, I would spray the clear coat right away or otherwise you need to wait a good 7-10 days even though I've done it after 2-3 days before and it worked.

 

[jcardona1]

Wait a minute...I knew I was getting deja vu!

 

[Serina]

Thanks guys! Due to high humidity and rain it looks like it will be wed or third before j can clear. I also have to wait for the paint to arrive after ordering....I am in a very rural location so I can't just run out and buy supplies like most

 

[Serina]

@jcardona1 I painted the headlights housings the same black night as yours so this is what I mam working on. My base color is pretty dark compared to yours.

 

[Marine7]

On pro paint products with hardener added, that recoat time is critical, but on spray cans that air dry I imagine it is no big deal. I could be wrong but I strongly feel there is enough solvent in the clear coat rattle can to melt into the base coat for sufficient intercoat adhesion. Honestly, I don't know for sure because when you rattle can something you kind of get what you pay for.

If she uses the "good" rattle can clear, it comes as a 2step system. You have to add the catalyst to the clear. But, if she's using the cheap s$&t from auto zone or advance auto, go ahead and spray whenever.... because it will look like garbage.
I know professional body men that, when they do a small spot repair, will use the good clear, and you wouldn't be able to pick out the area they repaired. The 2stage clear is the "real deal".

 

[Marine7]

This is important. I apply clear 10-20 minutes after the last coat of paint. If I wait any longer the clear coat reacts with the paint and it crinkles up. 24hrs is too long from my experience, I would spray the clear coat right away or otherwise you need to wait a good 7-10 days even though I've done it after 2-3 days before and it worked.

Usually once I apply the last color coat, I disassemble my color gun, start to clean it, and by then I'm ready to spray clear...so yea.... maybe 1/2 hour. I have never waited 24 hours either. Cars can't be sitting around that long if I want to make any $$!

 

[dogfishlake]

If she uses the "good" rattle can clear, it comes as a 2step system. You have to add the catalyst to the clear. But, if she's using the cheap s$&t from auto zone or advance auto, go ahead and spray whenever.... because it will look like garbage.
I know professional body men that, when they do a small spot repair, will use the good clear, and you wouldn't be able to pick out the area they repaired. The 2stage clear is the "real deal".

I'm with you on the 2k clear, it must be timely. I was referring to the generic spray can clear. Not my thing personally. I used to do car restoration before starting a powder coating biz 23 years ago. I am a bit out of swing with the latest and greatest but I can still hang in there.

Funny, I am finally getting the "frame off, nut and bolt restoration" itch again after all these years. Not sure on what, but I did just buy a rust free FJ60 that needs some love....hmmmm

 

[greentruck]

I just had some good results with Spray Max 2K Clear Glamour #368 0061. The precautions about ventilation apply. Needs to be laid down rather wet, but the results are outstanding. It provides a good match, although not quite perfect, to the factory finish, although this is only noticeable on close comparison in exactly the right light. TBQH, an exact match is pretty hard to get, especially in a spray can and without a complete overspray, but you'll likely be satisfied with the results.

 

[Marine7]

I'm with you on the 2k clear, it must be timely. I was referring to the generic spray can clear. Not my thing personally. I used to do car restoration before starting a powder coating biz 23 years ago. I am a bit out of swing with the latest and greatest but I can still hang in there.

Funny, I am finally getting the "frame off, nut and bolt restoration" itch again after all these years. Not sure on what, but I did just buy a rust free FJ60 that needs some love....hmmmm

I think when we were younger we were not as detailed oriented. Now that we are getting a bit older we more of the do it right the first time mindset!
I'll waiting on the build thread on the 60! Good luck!

 

[greentruck]

This thread needs more pics, although it's hard to get good ones of gloss. But I tried anyway.

As for getting old, that's what I try to do everyday when I get up. For me, I've learned to accept my limitations, but I try to do a good job. Been a model railroader for almost half a century, but I still can't paint worth a

So I'm OK with how this came out...

 

[Marine7]

This thread needs more pics, although it's hard to get good ones of gloss. But I tried anyway.

As for getting old, that's what I try to do everyday when I get up. For me, I've learned to accept my limitations, but I try to do a good job. Been a model railroader for almost half a century, but I still can't paint worth a

So I'm OK with how this came out...

View attachment 1474099

Turned out very good! I would rather do something myself, than to have a "pro" do it. Even if it's not 100% perfect, having it 98% right with the pride of doing it myself is better, in my opinion.

 

[Serina]

So basically I can't add clear now should I just wet color sand and polish?

 

[jcardona1]

So basically I can't add clear now should I just wet color sand and polish?

My two cents, for a headlight inner bezel I wouldn't even bother. Me personally, I only use clear coat over rattlecan jobs when it something that will see a lot of wear and tear like a bumper and door handles. For stuff that gets a TON of abuse like axle housing, links, and sliders, I just use spray paint because I know it will come off the next time I go out wheeling. A headlight inner bezel will not be exposed to the elements and once the headlight lens is over it, I bet you will hardly even notice the difference.

 

[Marine7]

So basically I can't add clear now should I just wet color sand and polish?

Or wait 7-10 days then wet sand and clear it.