azngarage
SILVER Star
with no bodywork, it starting around 4K.
Phi
Paint in California vs. Out of California (1 Viewer)
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Phi
He said starts around 4k
azngarage
SILVER Star
This one is one of Mud member. flare delete, 10 hr of bodywork on quarter panel from rubicon, dual tone with silver and raptor linner red.
azngarage
SILVER Star
Raptor line Army Green
COYS
SILVER Star
@azngarage Good to know! Approx time and cost to reintstall OEM fender flares using all OEM parts? I have all the OEM parts in hand to reattach all four flares including the gasket.
azngarage
SILVER Star
Raptor Line Lunar Rock
azngarage
SILVER Star
Flare delete, Roof delete and Linner
azngarage
SILVER Star
For Linner, starting around 2K
azngarage
SILVER Star
Here some other example
How much does a raptor line job cost?
It would be great if someone who paints vehicles for a living started a thread
one "How to paint a Land Cruiser by the book" or " How to get a SEMA level paint job for under $XXXX"
Reason I say this, IME, when you get an paint/repair estimate the shop often just gives a blank sheet type estimate ie: "Paint vehicle, repair body damage", they never (IME) list exactly what brand or grade of supplies that will be used.
And as we all know, there's good, better, and best levels of paint, primer, additives, etc., and mutliple manufacturers. Then add multiple steps involved, some of which might be skipped depending on the level of work (labor hours) put into the job.
Would be nice to see a list of supplies, brand and specific part numbers of any metal treatments, primers, sealers, bondo, paint, clear coat, addtiives that will be used.
Would also be nice to see the details on the preparation ie: what needs to be done when the vehicle is sanded down to bare metal for example? Should the bare steel be treated before priming, how, and when does a sealer need to be applied? How is the primer and paint or clear coat applied, how is it sanded or buffed out to remove orange peel, etc,etc,etc. What parts will be removed and painted separately (flares, doors, hatch, tailgate?)? Which glass is removed (hatch glass, quarter panel windows, windshield?), And to what grade is the final job going to end up at??
All that would help the buyer compare jobs.
For example; I've seen estimates between $4000 to $11,000 and everything in-between. Most recent was "We'll start at $10K and go from there (after the job is started)" So basically he wanted a blank check even after inspecting the vehicle.
IMO it's next to impossible for the customer to determine which is the better deal without knowing the processes and supplies being used and how far the shop will go to make the job just acceptable, factory level, better than factory, outstanding, or SEMA level.
FWIW
one "How to paint a Land Cruiser by the book" or " How to get a SEMA level paint job for under $XXXX"
Reason I say this, IME, when you get an paint/repair estimate the shop often just gives a blank sheet type estimate ie: "Paint vehicle, repair body damage", they never (IME) list exactly what brand or grade of supplies that will be used.
And as we all know, there's good, better, and best levels of paint, primer, additives, etc., and mutliple manufacturers. Then add multiple steps involved, some of which might be skipped depending on the level of work (labor hours) put into the job.
Would be nice to see a list of supplies, brand and specific part numbers of any metal treatments, primers, sealers, bondo, paint, clear coat, addtiives that will be used.
Would also be nice to see the details on the preparation ie: what needs to be done when the vehicle is sanded down to bare metal for example? Should the bare steel be treated before priming, how, and when does a sealer need to be applied? How is the primer and paint or clear coat applied, how is it sanded or buffed out to remove orange peel, etc,etc,etc. What parts will be removed and painted separately (flares, doors, hatch, tailgate?)? Which glass is removed (hatch glass, quarter panel windows, windshield?), And to what grade is the final job going to end up at??
All that would help the buyer compare jobs.
For example; I've seen estimates between $4000 to $11,000 and everything in-between. Most recent was "We'll start at $10K and go from there (after the job is started)" So basically he wanted a blank check even after inspecting the vehicle.
IMO it's next to impossible for the customer to determine which is the better deal without knowing the processes and supplies being used and how far the shop will go to make the job just acceptable, factory level, better than factory, outstanding, or SEMA level.
FWIW
From a guy who used to paint for a living, including wrought iron, construction equipment, semi trucks, fleet vehicles, collision repair, show cars and trucks, and the list goes on-
What you are asking for would take many hours of writing. Like days. Maybe someone will do that, but not me. Not to mention that I am decades removed from the occupation, so my technical knowledge is way out of date. But I can maybe offer some perspective, and some advice.
First, 'factory level' is the top level, and from an anti-corrosion and paint quality standard it will not be matched, let alone exceeded, outside of a factory. It starts with the manufacturing of the individual parts of the vehicle. For instance, when a (metal) fender is stamped, it then goes through a process to inhibit corrosion that usually involves multiple stages of dipping it in huge vats of acids and/or chemicals, often using electricity to promote adhesion. If you saw the fender after this process was complete, you would likely describe it as 'bare metal', but those steps are important. Then it goes through the painting process, which includes multiple layers of absolutely top-quality materials, applied in an extremely clean, temperature- and humidity-controlled environment by robots that are programmed to do their job perfectly. Each layer may or may not be cured via infrared or other method- these methods cannot be used on an assembled vehicle. Here's a short article that explains it better, and definitely check out the included video, which happens to be from a Toyota plant. If the paint is ever compromised- such as sanding through it to make a repair- then the anti-corrosion process is also compromised and that process cannot be replicated outside of the factory. Not to mention that the factory painting process cannot be duplicated in a shop- it can only be aspired to, unless they deconstruct the vehicle completely and then also have the equipment and facilities that are used at the factory. They don't, it's that simple.
So, from a durability and longevity standpoint, there is no level of painting that exceeds factory. 'SEMA' level just means it looks good. It only has to look good for a season. Factory paint is expected to, and usually does, look fairly good for decades with minimal care. A refinished vehicle will be very lucky to look good for 5-10 years of normal use.
The advice I promised: Paint is designed to be used as a system. All of the products in that system, from cleaners to prep to primers to sealers to base and topcoats, are designed to work together. Find a shop that adheres to that philosophy. Ask what system they use, and research it to see for yourself what quality level it is. Make sure they have a warranty and that they will stand behind it- and that they understand that you intend to make use of that warranty if there are any problems. That may motivate them to go the extra mile on your job. Just be aware that even with the extra mile, you are likely to be disappointed if you keep that vehicle for long. You will be lucky to find a warranty longer than a year or two. That's not a reflection of the shop; that's a reflection of the reality of refinishing.
More advice- don't paint it unless you absolutely have to. If you do, sell it immediately, or prepare to be disappointed down the road. Vehicles are consumable, and like pets if you get emotional about them you are going to be very sad at some point in the future.
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That's pretty
Agree, it's difficult to replicate the factory, but then again there are factory specific repair procedures that body shops could use.
For example, one of my 80's had body work over 20 years ago and the clear coat in the repair area started to discolor after maybe five years then the paint started to develop micro-cracks after 10-15 years along with slight peeling of the clear coat around the edges.
On another 80 that had the front half of the vehicle repainted 10+ years ago, that paint job still looks factory.
FWIW I've been through both a Toyota plant and a Ford plant, it is interesting to watch the attention to detail and how it all goes together.
Main point was it would help if we the customers had more knowledge
before we went to get an estimate, and then if the shop could give us more specifics on exactly how the job was to be completed, to what level, with which components, etc,etc.
For example, one of my 80's had body work over 20 years ago and the clear coat in the repair area started to discolor after maybe five years then the paint started to develop micro-cracks after 10-15 years along with slight peeling of the clear coat around the edges.
On another 80 that had the front half of the vehicle repainted 10+ years ago, that paint job still looks factory.
FWIW I've been through both a Toyota plant and a Ford plant, it is interesting to watch the attention to detail and how it all goes together.
Main point was it would help if we the customers had more knowledge
before we went to get an estimate, and then if the shop could give us more specifics on exactly how the job was to be completed, to what level, with which components, etc,etc.
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COYS
SILVER Star
azngarage
SILVER Star
First of all, I agreed with what you said. However, even factory such as Toyota, Honda and GM have problem with their paint peeling and flaking off like the Corolla, Civic and all the GM Van/Truck. Most of the shop operate different and not all equal. I know not a lot of shop can not replicate the level of detail and quality control like factory. But at the end of the day, we're in a business of provide a service to our customer. Whatever customer want and willing to pay, we will provide. Quality is basically reflected by the price. Price is depending on the estimated on the amount of labor and supplies cost. Like any business, we need to turn a profit after paying the overhead, supplies, employee wages, and all Kalifornia Tax Fee s***. Some customer want a 2k paint job, we will do. Some want 20k paint job, we will do. For Some it's a trail rigs and for some it's their baby ( SEMA Queen). Its a Pay to Play game. Cheap is never good and Good is never Cheap.
Phi
I highly recommend that people educate themselves. There's no need for a Land Cruiser-specific paint guide on this forum when the internet is available, all the info is there in spades.
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
I recently had my 80 repainted (original Moonglow Pearl), glass removed, new seals, they had to remove 2 prior repaints that did not adhere well and the clear was peeling. Had 15 hours or so of body work and no rust at all. Good southern Cali truck. We started at $12,000 ended up at $15,000 and it's pretty good not perfect which is what I wanted, perfect costs $$$$$. And I was fairly confident going in that I had a no rust and no major body damage to repair and I was correct. I would do it again. It's still worth more than I have into it,
in my eyes
- Thread starter
- #40
This looks awesome!
