P0340 Post HG (1 Viewer)

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Yeah please check and let me know. I will do the same. I am wondering which one goes to the engine hanger?
 
alright...


-so we both know about the head to the firewall

-then there is the engine hoist to a component mounted to the shock tower

-and the last one mounts to the upper intake manifold, right in front of the oil dipstick, and goes to the wheel well


hope that helps :D
 
Onur's truck! Oh no. Well at least it had a peacful death :D

Well all the grounds were connected. You are right there are 3 of them. Didn't get the timing light yet but here's the deal. The truck will only start when the distributor tunred all the way towards the cab. The flange of the distributor is completely horizontal with the head surface. If I move it a hair toward the radiator, it won't start. This time I let it idle but it died about a minute later. Gas smell was coming some where from the engine and as always from the exahaust. Pressing on the gas padel didn't increase the idle at all.

The crank shaft sensor is on its way. I'm gonna double check the fuel lines connected to the fuel rail.

Man! What a dilema.
 
Riad,

Can u make sure that the TDC mark on the Cshaft coincides with the Dizzy rotor pointing to #1 which coincides with the #1 piston at TDC? Use a long stick thru the #1 spark plug well to confirm piston is at TDC.
 
I confirmed this number of times before starting it for the first time but I will check again. I had to rotate the pulley twice to get #1 and #6 TDC. Another words, single and double dots were precisely aligned horizontally with the head surface, double dots were outboard, singles were in. But at this point it is probably not in that state anymore because I started it few times and did not manually rotate the pulley after that to match any of the points. Last time when it ran for a minute before dying, I was trying to do the timing per FSM. Pointed the groove on the pulley to 3 deg and loosened the distributor bolt. But as I said above, unless the distributor flange is completely hoizontal, it will not fire at all. And after firing the idle is really really low.

I guess I am gonna start pulling things out again, starting with the throttle body. Will double check the banjo bolts on the fileter and on the fuel lines. I am not sure how can I screw them up. After that when the crank sensor comes in, I will have at least one less thing deal with.
 
I feel your frustrations....
 
Sounds to me like you have the distributor off by 1 tooth.
 
Riad said:
BTW: Correction. IT was more like 1 o'clock, not 11 o'clock.
Click to expand...

Did you tear it apart yet? Hopefully not... realigning the distributor is pretty easy.

My simple mind would think that having the rotor at 1 o'clock would advance the timing. But the only real way to know is to pull the distributor and get the rotor to point to 11... then see what happens.
 
I haven't torn it apart yet. If I point the rotor to 11 O'Clock, it does not point to #1 plug wire any more, it points to #5. Because the #1 plug wire is always at 1 O'Clock (if not more). Does any one have a picture of a proper setup? The FSM only says to align the groove of the distributor housing with the potrution of the driven gear before putting it in. That's what I did and after that #1 plug wire can only be set to 1 o'clock. I can rotate the distributor counter clockwise but the #1 plug wire does not go as far as 11 o'clock.
 
I followed the FSM and ended up having my rotor a 1, just like you. I discussed the process with Ali and he told me to remove the distributor and to realign it to face 11. I followed his instructions, and pointed the rotor to 11. The truck started and idled a little high, but after following the timing procedure everything is jiving :D

All is well for me in that regard. My injectors are another issues though :mad:.
 
Do I need to redo all the timing stuff like aligning the dots on the cams, rotate the pulley to 0*, ensure that #1 piston is TDC? Or simply pulling the distributor and setting the rotor would suffice? Assuming every thing else is fine. Also When you pointed yours to 11 OClock, was it pointing to #1 or #5 plug wire?
 
Pull this dizzy cap, bump the starter until the arm is about at the 1oclock position where it used to be, then switch it accordingly close to the 11oclock position.

The teeth on the rotor are fairly coarse and it is pretty obvious if you have a visual guesstimate. When I redid the o-ring on the dizzy I didn't do anything special, I just scored the bolt location, pulled the cap, took a picture of the arm, took everything apart, did the job and it reassembled with ease.
 
Riad said:
Do I need to redo all the timing stuff like aligning the dots on the cams, rotate the pulley to 0*, ensure that #1 piston is TDC? Or simply pulling the distributor and setting the rotor would suffice? Assuming every thing else is fine. Also When you pointed yours to 11 OClock, was it pointing to #1 or #5 plug wire?
Click to expand...


whoa whoa whoa

slow down killer. no need to go crazy on this! NaterGator has the process down. I'm not sure which plug it points to, but its worth a shot right?
 
Oh no I wasn't going crazy, just wanted to make sure that's the case. It is definitely worth Shot.

Nater what does "Bump the starter" mean? I thought I could not move the rotor without rotating the pulley..

Please clarify

Thanks
 
By bump the starter I mean give the starter real quick pulses of electricity by quickly "starting" the car. I put starting in quotes because you are just turning the key for a fraction of a second to engage the starter and turn the engine a little bit. It's the lazy man's way of turning the crankshaft, but it should suffice. Just don't keep doing it over and over and over.... it helps to have another person but it won't take many tries. Alternatively you could just be careful and turn the rotor CCW roughly 60° from wherever it is. That would be the angular difference between 1 and 11 oclock. It wouldn't kill you to draw it out on paper first though, to be sure.



If it were me I'd just be lazy and bump the starter ;)
 
Sounds like a cool trick. I will remember that next time. Thanks! :D

Well guys. THE TRUCK STARTED!! I can't thank you guys enough for this. If you guys ever come to WV/VA/MD area, give me shout I will buy you :beer:s (although I can't drink) :D

I did what you guys suggested with the rotor. It started right up! Here are some pictures of the rotor. The first picture is the pulley that I rotated to 0*. 2nd picture is rotor before 11 O'Clock and the 3rd picture is after 11 O'clock.

The idle is still rough. I got up to 1200 rmp right after it started up. I slowly rotated the distributor towards the radiator like Ruadhrigh suggested and got the idle down to 900. Then pressed and held on the gas for few seconds, after releasing it came down to 650. Lots of white smoke with strong gas smell is still coming out. After I pressed and held the gas padel for a minute at 2500 rpm, I got code P0304. Gas smoke is also coming out of the exhaust manifold. After the code cleared, it did not come back again, yet.

Well I am gonna recheck the TDC for piston #1 and the wires.

I grealy appreciate all of you guys and all the help you provided.

Thanks a lot! :cheers:
Timing.jpg
distbefore.jpg
distafter.jpg
 
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