P0340 Post HG (1 Viewer)

[Ruadhrigh]

That is AWESOME!!!


I love it when things work out!

 

[alia176]

Sweeeeeet dude, good job. You learned a very valuable lesson about timing, TDC and all that jazz. Next time I go to Baltimore for a project, I'll look you up!

Cheers.

ps on a previous V8, I had the timing exactly 180* opposite and ran it like that for about a year before I got unlazy and fixed it....

 

[Riad]

I sure did! This timing stuff seems pretty straight forward, now that I understand the whole jazz. Hopefully I can remeber what I did, if I have to do this again .

I appreciate all the inputs Ali.

Yeah, let me know when ever you get here. I'd sure love hook up!

Thanks a lot.

 

[VanGo]

P0340 code after replacing electrical distributor connector.

Hey! My 97 has thrown this code after replacing the electrical connector located directly on top of the dizzy. I replaced the HG 2K ago and she has been running strong(no codes)- so maybe it's coincedence.... a lot of climbing around in the engine bay, maybe I bump something? Anyway, I replaced this connector after noticing it was melted from contacting something hot (it has been like this since the PO), now this code shows up. I am using the FSM to trouble shoot this issue and really hope it's not the wiring harness or associated circuits. Just a thought in closing, I did have a little trouble disconnecting the 4 pins in the connector.... maybe I created a short.

-Any thoughts

Van

I was hoping some one has experience with this . I am now consistently getting this code. The truck fires up fine but the idle is really rough and pretty much has all the symptoms for a Camshaft Positioning Sensor circuit malfunction. CEL comes on after few seconds of idling. Idle drops from 650 to 100. I understand the problem domain includes wiring, ECM, Open/short in Camshaft Positioning Sensor circuit and even in the circuit itself. I have cracked the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor under the #1 oil pan while I was putting it on. Ordered a new one from Dan, (Well Antonio). Could that be causing a short? Did any one experience this after a HG job?

Any information and/or suggestion is greatly appreciated.





-Riad

 

[Riad]

I have replied your PM. Did you have to take out the sensor during your HG PM?

 

[VanGo]

Riad-

Using the FSM I verified the Ohm reading at the sensor in the order prescribed- with all points regisitering within spec I decided to re-install the old OEM connector(as I mentioned in my PM my only reason for removing the OEM connector was due to, what appeared to be cosmetic damage, i.e. slightly melted), and now the trucks runs great again. I troughly inspected the connector pins once I removed them from the new OEM connector, some were distorted which may have created less then spec contact within the connector( there is a lot of movement, but nothing unusual at this connector, my guess is that this compensates for movement in the engine bay?). After correcting the pins, I re-installed the old OEM connector, checked for proper seating of the pins within the connector and then completed the connection at the distributor with a positve "click" of the connectors. At this point I started the truck, and success! There was no rough, long start up,or no CEL code. This is my daily driver, so it needs to run . After this little electrical issue I am more prone to leave things alone and only if they need to be repaired or maintained will I fix or update. I can live with the cosmetic appearance of this connector now that I have confirmed that it is electrically sound and maintains its seal.

 

[Riad]

Alright! Congrats on the success. Hey, as long as it works and functional, no need to worry about the looks. .

 

[VanGo]

After several months of this erradict P0340 I have discovered that 3 of the 4 pins at the molex connector at the top of the distributor, each have a crack in the wire insulation. After talking with Lance at IPOR I resolved to start the FSM troubleshooting process over, starting at the distributor. I repaired this issue by removing each pin seperately and used electrical tape to cover the damage. Re-installed each pin, re-connected the battery and viola, no CEL, no hesitation, no rough starts. What I have learned is simple- if you have the time take it! Troubleshooting for the shady, like anything, is a learning experience. Ask questions. And follow the troubleshooting logic of the FSM, not doing this is what cost me time and money.

Van

 

[BrAinDeAD]

Alright so I'm still stuck... I have a 95 and haven't done too much outside of having the distributor cap redone 2-3 months ago. Basically I got a real big thud while driving about a week ago and have had the p0340 code since although it idles fine and only seems to have issues while under load... I checked my timing and it's still good and as far as I can tell the connections are fine. Am replacing the crankshaft position sensor today to see if that helps... Am I missing something? Anyone got any ideas?

 

[bigCatdiesel]

Alright so I'm still stuck... I have a 95 and haven't done too much outside of having the distributor cap redone 2-3 months ago. Basically I got a real big thud while driving about a week ago and have had the p0340 code since although it idles fine and only seems to have issues while under load... I checked my timing and it's still good and as far as I can tell the connections are fine. Am replacing the crankshaft position sensor today to see if that helps... Am I missing something? Anyone got any ideas?

Did a new crank position sensor solve the problem? I have the same problem. Cam pos sensor was outside resistance specs per FSM but new dizzy didn't help.

 

[Gbergma1]

Maybe a dumb question but is it possible to be off a tooth on the distributor gear, but still have timing correct? I replaced my distributor and I thought I was very careful noting the dizzy wheel position. Checked timing according to the FSM, steady at 3 degrees. Now my idle drops and surges only when warmed up and I have the P0340 CEL.

 

[ppc]

No....As long as the engine electronics were placed in service mode properly so that "base" timing is set then the distributor is in the proper location.

 

[Gbergma1]

Ok, that's good to know Phil, thank you. When I replaced the distributor I paid very close attention to the the dizzy wheel location. When timing was set I use the FSM and made sure to use the jumper wire. I reread these 3 pages and I am still not sure of what the solution was for a rough idle at warm up and the P0340 CEL.

 

[Ecliff5]

I have had the code P0340 pop up twice now with no symptoms of anything going bad. First time was a few months ago, I cleared the code and it stayed away for a few months. Then last night I went for a quick drive and the CEL came on and showed P0340 and a pending P0385. So the camshaft and the crankshaft. Right before I went for the drive I wrapped some heat reflective tape around the engine harness at the EGR pipe. No visible sings of wires melted but the OEM heat wrap was coming off. Hoping I didn't mess anything up when wrapped the tape around the harness but it's old and brittle so wouldn't be too surprised. I'm not sure what else would cause the codes to pop up with no signs of anything going bad. Starts fine, idles fine, gas milage is fine. 330K on the clock. I cleared the codes but haven't had a chance to go for another drive. I sat there in the driveway revving the truck after I cleared the code and all seemed well.

 

[tjones8]

Did a new crank position sensor solve the problem? I have the same problem. Cam pos sensor was outside resistance specs per FSM but new dizzy didn't help.

wondering the same thing, mine is misfiring under load and idling low, usually low when it gets warm. Cold start is totally normal