OVERTHUNK: Power distribution block (accessory fuse panel) (1 Viewer)

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So I am gearing up to add an accessory fuse panel aka power distribution block to my LC200

Just wanted to see if anyone who has already gone down this path can steer me away from any mistakes.

So I am currently running one battery but plan to add a 2nd battery in the future
For now the fuse panel will be connected to the main battery and mounted at the passenger rear, under the hood on the SLEE accessory panel.
Fitting a 2nd battery without doing the starter/aux battery location swap is another overthunk project in the works....

Accessory panel is for future light bars and...well accessories
I hate fuse taps and don't have ACC fuses in the passenger foot well where I need them
So I will try to make some of the fuses to be always on and ACC triggered
Wanted a clean OEM look with optional relays so I can have the high powered lights in the future.


Immediate connections will be:
Dash cam (always on and ACC)
ARB Linx module
USB power hub for front seat passenger (hidden under center console)
Under hood work lights (bought a set of the KC cyclones)

Future connections will be:
Front light bar, poss ditch lights, rock lights, scene lights

Will eventually run a 4AWG wire to the back for a rear fuse panel to distribute power to the rear cargo area and rear lighting to have less wiring
rear cargo power for fridge
rear usb power hub for passengers
rear hatch lights
rear scene lights


So this video from Wanderlust Overland has been really helpful in understanding the wiring and how to build a panel.


And this link for this article is EXCELLENT. I believe a ih8mud'er was building these at one point



I was creating a shopping list of components and came across this:

And here is a YT video of it in action



This looks like a much cleaner all in one design.
It has 8 inline fuses for the simple stuff and 8 fused relays for the bigger stuff
Can be expandable for the future as shown in the video

Anyone use one of these Bussman ssVEC boxes before?
Would save alot of the tedious wiring connections.
 
So I am gearing up to add an accessory fuse panel aka power distribution block to my LC200

Just wanted to see if anyone who has already gone down this path can steer me away from any mistakes.

So I am currently running one battery but plan to add a 2nd battery in the future
For now the fuse panel will be connected to the main battery and mounted at the passenger rear, under the hood on the SLEE accessory panel.
Fitting a 2nd battery without doing the starter/aux battery location swap is another overthunk project in the works....

Accessory panel is for future light bars and...well accessories
I hate fuse taps and don't have ACC fuses in the passenger foot well where I need them
So I will try to make some of the fuses to be always on and ACC triggered
Wanted a clean OEM look with optional relays so I can have the high powered lights in the future.


Immediate connections will be:
Dash cam (always on and ACC)
ARB Linx module
USB power hub for front seat passenger (hidden under center console)
Under hood work lights (bought a set of the KC cyclones)

Future connections will be:
Front light bar, poss ditch lights, rock lights, scene lights

Will eventually run a 4AWG wire to the back for a rear fuse panel to distribute power to the rear cargo area and rear lighting to have less wiring
rear cargo power for fridge
rear usb power hub for passengers
rear hatch lights
rear scene lights


So this video from Wanderlust Overland has been really helpful in understanding the wiring and how to build a panel.


And this link for this article is EXCELLENT. I believe a ih8mud'er was building these at one point



I was creating a shopping list of components and came across this:

And here is a YT video of it in action



This looks like a much cleaner all in one design.
It has 8 inline fuses for the simple stuff and 8 fused relays for the bigger stuff
Can be expandable for the future as shown in the video

Anyone use one of these Bussman ssVEC boxes before?
Would save alot of the tedious wiring connections.

A number of people are using the SwitchPros block which is a solid state system of relays with a bit more logical available. I agree with you on minimizing power takeoffs with add-a-fuse taps. I would prefer direct of Battery with a relay to control its on/off. Some taps are useful, not for powering, but for tigger signals. These I try to place on less critical circuits .. lets not reduce reliability. I too ran a 4 gauge to passages rear fuse block. Mine is relay controlled from a SwitchPro switch, intent to be able to cut all power if some unexpected drain. This fuse block powers the USB and power outlets in cargo bay, L & R sides, back side of drivers console and a lead for either roof or rear for auxiliary camping light outlets. Freezer power is run fused, but unswitched from (pending install) Aux Battery with a switch over to Main battery in event of powerless (i.e. redundancy 15 amp circuits)
 
I mounted a PowerTray on top of Slee compressor mount. Has worked out very well.

elec.jpg


SP9100.jpg
 
yeah I'm in the ARB Linx eco system so gonna try to stick to that as my hub.

The SPOD is nice (but pricey)....but I do like the solid state nature of it.

But really liked the real time monitoring and adjustment capabilities of the LINX
especially rear airbag monitoring, Trailer TPMS, auto pressure control for tire inflate and deflate
and all the automation capabilities with lighting.
of course weak link is the android phone module....

But this ssVEC box and some wiring know how you could essentially build an SPOD like setup

I emailed Waytek so see if I can upgrade a couple of the relay/fuses to 30A my self in case I get a crazy big light bar, but this might work well for my plans....will update accordingly
 
One idea - throw a silicone boot over the exposed power lug of your switchpros and your battery terminal extension. I've seen wrenches turn into welders inadvertently.
 
Did you ever hear back from Waytek? I’m in a similar situation of looking for a good relay box to use with a Linx system, curious to know what you went with
 
So I am gearing up to add an accessory fuse panel aka power distribution block to my LC200

Just wanted to see if anyone who has already gone down this path can steer me away from any mistakes.

So I am currently running one battery but plan to add a 2nd battery in the future
For now the fuse panel will be connected to the main battery and mounted at the passenger rear, under the hood on the SLEE accessory panel.
Fitting a 2nd battery without doing the starter/aux battery location swap is another overthunk project in the works....

Accessory panel is for future light bars and...well accessories
I hate fuse taps and don't have ACC fuses in the passenger foot well where I need them
So I will try to make some of the fuses to be always on and ACC triggered
Wanted a clean OEM look with optional relays so I can have the high powered lights in the future.


Immediate connections will be:
Dash cam (always on and ACC)
ARB Linx module
USB power hub for front seat passenger (hidden under center console)
Under hood work lights (bought a set of the KC cyclones)

Future connections will be:
Front light bar, poss ditch lights, rock lights, scene lights

Will eventually run a 4AWG wire to the back for a rear fuse panel to distribute power to the rear cargo area and rear lighting to have less wiring
rear cargo power for fridge
rear usb power hub for passengers
rear hatch lights
rear scene lights
I run a similar setup with future plan to fit a 2nd battery on LHS as Aux.
I run a SwitchPro (of Main Batt, Later Aux) which controls aux lighting: Light Bar Hi/Lo, L/RH Scene, Rock, Rr Flood, RrFog & Rear Power Relay
Rear Pwr Relay feeds a 4AWG run to rear for cargo bay power & USB outlets, center console USB's and a power run to roof top for RTT outlets.
ARB air compressor, DC-DC charger, underhood lights, fuel transfer pump, fridge, backup lights, etc run direct off Terminal fuse bocks & small ATC fuse blocks

AED67A12-0473-4CDE-BD5D-4A93DC3E063F.jpeg
 
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